Temperature Alarm

[Kevin Henderson]

My 1988 with an M25XP does not and has never had a temperature sensing alarm.  I was digging around and came accross an old thread that mentioned the aqualarm temperature switch.  It looks like this is a unit that mounts top the exterior of the manifold and can be wired into the existing oil pressure sender/alarm on the thermostat housing.
Has anyone tried this lately?  I would like to ad a temperature alarm to give me an audible indication of overheating instead of casually glancing at the instrument panel and going.. 
Is there a better fix or method?   

[KWKloeber]

My 1988 with an M25XP does not and has never had a temperature sensing alarm.  I was digging around and came accross an old thread that mentioned the aqualarm temperature switch.  It looks like this is a unit that mounts top the exterior of the manifold and can be wired into the existing oil pressure sender/alarm on the thermostat housing.
Has anyone tried this lately?  I would like to ad a temperature alarm to give me an audible indication of overheating instead of casually glancing at the instrument panel and going.. 
Is there a better fix or method?   

Do you have the temp alarm panel (solid state board) that's behind the panel? 
It alarms when the temp gauge hits about 200F.

It's very simple to tap the thermostat cap to add the OEM temp switch, which is 1/8" NPT. No cost.
Or, I can put my hands on a used XP one -- w/o the tap, which I could drill / tap and swap with you.

The hi temp switch is about 48 boat bucks.  You can use any piezo buzzer (about 5 boat bucks from Radio Shack)  Or a dual Cole Hersee alarm/light (below) thru the panel for both the oil and temp alarm.  Or use the existing oil alarm for both switches.

[attachimg=#]

Ken K

[Clay Greene]

You might also consider the Borel alarm as an alternative or a supplement to the sensor at the thermostat housing. The Borel sensor goes on the hose from the manifold to the muffler so it monitors the temperature on the open/sea water side instead of the closed/coolant side. You can get it with or without a stand-alone alarm panel. We got it without and connected it to the same wire leading to our high temperature and low oil pressure alarm at the engine panel.

[Clay Greene]

Here's the link to their site:

http://www.borelmfg.com/products_alarm.htm

You have to call them to order the sensor without the alarm panel.  It was $50, I believe.  It took maybe 20 minutes to install.  The only challenge was finding the correct wire leading up to the engine panel.  I cut that and then used a three-way heat shrink butt splice to connect all three wires. 

[KWKloeber]

Here's the link to their site:

http://www.borelmfg.com/products_alarm.htm

You have to call them to order the sensor without the alarm panel.  It was $50, I believe.  It took maybe 20 minutes to install.  The only challenge was finding the correct wire leading up to the engine panel.  I cut that and then used a three-way heat shrink butt splice to connect all three wires. 

Can you elaborate?  Three wires?  What are you using for the alarm - the oil alarm?

Ken

[Clay Greene]

Really just two wires connected together with a three way butt connector. We had a high temperature alarm for the closed side of the cooling system so we used that wire. But you could use the low oil pressure alarm wire as well, I suppose. Or you could just run a new wire from the Borel sensor to the engine panel.

Another nice feature of the Borel sensor is that it comes with test wires you can connect to make sure the alarm is wired correctly.