Seaward panel / voltmeter mod schematic?

[KWKloeber]

Has anyone who has done the Seaward voltmeter upgrade received a schematic of the panel and/or instructions with that upgrade that they can post?

To save time/words - I know what needs to be done, I am just looking for the actual schematic/instructions supplied from Seaward (or CD.) 

I've seen schematics/instructions for the engine end (switch the charge wire,) but not for the panel mod itself.

Thanks,
-Ken

[Clay Greene]

Is this what you're looking for? 

[KWKloeber]

Is this what you're looking for? 

I was just going to add that I am aware of that schematic on the C34 site. 
But that is actually a schematic of a replacement panel -- not specifically for modifying old panels for the voltmeter mod.

Notice that is has the key switch glow plug position, not separate key / glow / Start switches as many panels did.

I can't believe that Seaward would just send wire and a voltmeter -- no instructions and/or a schematic how to install.  Well, maybe I could.

I emailed Dennis to see if there was something included in the packages.

Thanks,
Ken

[KWKloeber]

GOT IT!

From Dennis  

I converted it into a searchable PDF for y'all and will post that version on techwiki.


-ken

[attachimg=#]

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks, Ken, very helpful, and thanks for posting it on the tech wiki.

[mainesail]

GOT IT!

From Dennis  

I converted it into a searchable PDF for y'all and will post that version on techwiki.


-ken

[attachimg=#]

From the .PDF...

"You MUST melt solder on to the ends of each wire."

A "upgrade" that includes Eurostrips and solder is not much of an "upgrade" over the original gummy bear plugs. D'oh......

Eurostrips should have "pressure plates" inside to prevent the screw from bearing directly onto the wire strands. Solder tinning of wire creates a hard spot that can lead to fatigue fracture. If the wrong solder is used it only creates corrosion not inhibits it. Soldering to used wire will also be problematic for many DIY's who don't know the proper pre-solder treatment to use on pre-oxidized wire.

With a Eurostrip it also creates a situation where solder could become the "sole means of connection" because the screw was not first holding the bare wire before it was tinned. ABYC standards require a solid mechanical connection in addition to solder. A set screw onto pre-tinned minimally deformable wire, becomes a solder only connection. It is pretty impossible to make this mechanical connection in a Eurostrip prior to soldering.

If a Euro strip does not have a "pressure plate" then a proper crimp terminal such as a wire ferrule or blade/tongue terminal should be used. The best option is to simply not use a Eurostrip and to use a terminal strip & ring terminals or heat shrink butts with the right crimp tool. Heat shrink butts actually create the least number of connection points and it is water tight......

You don't need a "kit" to do this upgrade. A volt meter from any chandler will run you about $24.00 - $30.00 a terminal strip, some crimps and away you go...

[KWKloeber]

RC,

Thank You, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for helping to make my case about this terrible "downgrade"!!!

Listers and Listettes, CLARIFICATION - NO WAY did I intend to convey to use these instructions!!  

I was only looking for the schematic of the revised panel with the voltmeter, which doesn't seem to exist anywhere I have looked.  
I should have stripped the darn instructions off before posting it.  

The "downgrade" is bad, bad, bad if you follow the provided instructions/materials/method.  
Maybe even worse than the original plugs, because owners get a false confidence that they have "fixed" the ills at the Seaward panel, in the Universal engine-end harness, and with the Catalina connecting harness,

But RC, doesn't this instruction allay one of your concerns?  LOL!  

    4 - WRAP SOME SCRAP WIRE AROUND THE HARNESS NEAR THE TERMSTRIP, AND
          SUSPEND THE HARNESS HORIZONTALLY COMING FROM THE ENGINE, TO KEEP IT
          OUT OF THE BILGE, AND TO MINIMIZE TENSION ON THE TERMSTRIP •

Oh yeah, and stick the term strip up under the galley cabinet with some bubble gum.

Cheers,
Ken

[mainesail]

Ken,

The whole lot of it was offensive considering they kept calling it an "upgrade"....

[KWKloeber]

Ken,

The whole lot of it was offensive considering they kept calling it an "upgrade"....

RC,

You especially, will appreciate the irony of this one...... I swear on my anchor -- it was the conversation that transpired...

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4546.msg56842.html#msg56842
Same harness issues, Different mfgr ("your" CS-36T)

And what I really don't comprehend, is why, in the mid 80's when CTY/Seaward switched out the ammeter to a voltmeter, would CYT STILL RUN THE CHARGE WIRE TO THE PANEL and back to the solenoid -- until they finally changed the harness setup ???  Just asleep at the switch or what?  Surely even if they had a thousand harnesses made up and on the shelf, CTY could have eaten the cost of one short wire jumpered to the solenoid!

Ken