Emergency Tiller Casting, a Casualty of Rudder Replacement

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Hi Forum Readers,

As we disassembled the broken rudder post (see post about how we lost our rudder) the 26 year old casting broke.  My shipwright, and good friend, Danny Escobar, said a custom casting could be had for about $900.00, but he thought someone might sell a replacement part.  We need to move the boat back to our dock this weekend, so we are going to skip this replacement for now.  Does someone know of a place to buy this part?

Thanks,

Bob

[Steve W10]

Is this what you are looking for....
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2637_72/emergency-stainless-steel-tiller-headbrc-34-c-36--c-38.cfm
or
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1010_72/emergency-tiller-headbrc-34-c-36--c-38.cfm

Steve

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Is this what you are looking for....
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2637_72/emergency-stainless-steel-tiller-headbrc-34-c-36--c-38.cfm
or
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1010_72/emergency-tiller-headbrc-34-c-36--c-38.cfm

Steve

That's it Steve.  Thanks.  I looked there, but failed to find it.  I am ordering the stainless steel one today.

Cheers,

Bob

[Ron Hill]

Robert : I surely would NOT recommend trying to move your C34 without that emergency tiller cap in place to lift the rudder up!!!  Without the cap, you'll be putting a strain on the steering quadrant cables to hold the rudder in place - Not a good idea. 

There is nothing wrong with a Al cast cap, people just need to read the old Mainsheet Tech Notes.
I recommended a number of times, that C34 owners with the standard transom remove that cap and put some grease on the inside of that cap.  You have two dissimilar metals touching that are going to corrode together - as you have found out!!

A few thoughts

[KWKloeber]

Bob,

Might suggest that you call CTY parts or GhM to see if they have anything available now.
CD obviously doesn't manufacture them and could save some bucks.

GhM could obviously fab it in s/steel, but a delay. 

Ken

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Robert : I surely would NOT recommend trying to move your C34 without that emergency tiller cap in place to lift the rudder up!!!  Without the cap, you'll be putting a strain on the steering quadrant cables to hold the rudder in place - Not a good idea. 

A few thoughts

That was another blow!  I have to move the boat out of the yard early next week.  I just heard from Catalina Direct that the stainless caps are 4 to 6 weeks backlogged.  I will try to see if they have the cast aluminum cap.  Bob

[KWKloeber]

  Without the cap, you'll be putting a strain on the steering quadrant cables to hold the rudder in place - Not a good idea. 

I am told (though luckily I have had no need to confirm) that our C30 rudders are buoyant -- is that not the case with yours?

-Ken

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Hi Ron and Forum readers,

My shipwright, and good friend Danny, already knew that the cap was a key part of holding the rudder fast.  He has built up a collar made of wood to simulate the cap such that the bolt rests on a washer and then the collar.  Catalina Direct had the aluminum cap in stock and is air freighting it to me.  So we should just have one 16 mile trip to make with this wooden collar and then we will have a new cap in place.

Thank you guys for the heads up.  Another lesson learned.  This is why I use a highly skilled shipwright to do much of my hull work.  Our partner in the LLC is Franco Cervetto, a master engine engineer.  He keeps the 26 year old diesel purring like the family cat.

Cheers,

Bob

[Steve W10]

Sounds like an excellent plan Bob, hope it is an uneventful trip.

Aside: when I pulled my factory rudder (1988, #625) a few years back it weighed almost exactly 100 pounds.  I suspect it doesn't displace quite that much water..... read.... it's a rock.  But I could be wrong; I should've tried it in some shallow water.

S

[Ron Hill]

Bob : I thought and should have mentioned that a wooden color will work. Just anything for the bolt to ride on at the same height that it would have been in the cap!

Good thinking!!

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Bob : I thought and should have mentioned that a wooden color will work. Just anything for the bolt to ride on at the same height that it would have been in the cap!

Good thinking!!

Hi Ron,

I had that a bit wrong.  We brought the boat home today.  Right now the bolt is resting on two plastic washers.  The wood "collar" comes in when we put in the new cap.  The collar goes under the quadrant and holds the rudder because the boat is in the water.  Franco took a picture and I will post it here in a day or so.  Here is the picture.  BTW:  Anyone who wants a rudder, one can be found at the bottom of the ICW under the Hillsboro Blvd. bridge :).  No, ours did not float.

Cheers,

Bob

[Kyle Ewing]

  Without the cap, you'll be putting a strain on the steering quadrant cables to hold the rudder in place - Not a good idea. 

I am told (though luckily I have had no need to confirm) that our C30 rudders are buoyant -- is that not the case with yours?

-Ken

My experience when I replaced my rudder several years ago is the new rudder it's more buoyant than the old, but still heavy.I noticed at rest the rear of the boat sat higher in the water with the new rudder and there was enough "float"at the rudder post to move it slightly up and down, especially under way.

I figure this is due to the fact the foam in mutt old rudder was water logged and there is more area (buoyancy) in the new rudder.

[Ron Hill]

Bob : From your picture it looks like your bolt is riding on 3 nylon bushings and the height looks about the same as with the cap ON.  You should be OK as far as little strain on the steering cables.

One time I took the cap off and turned the wheel and watched the rudder slide down.  To get the rudder back up I attached a 4:1 soft vang (preventer) from the split in the back stay to the bolt in the column. As I tightened the vang I turned the wheel and the rudder column came back up.  I mention that (as a just in case method) because your holes may not exactly match up with the new cap and column.

A few thoughts

[RobertSchuldenfrei]

Bob : From your picture it looks like your bolt is riding on 3 nylon bushings and the height looks about the same as with the cap ON.  You should be OK as far as little strain on the steering cables.

One time I took the cap off and turned the wheel and watched the rudder slide down.  To get the rudder back up I attached a 4:1 soft vang (preventer) from the split in the back stay to the bolt in the column. As I tightened the vang I turned the wheel and the rudder column came back up.  I mention that (as a just in case method) because your holes may not exactly match up with the new cap and column.

A few thoughts

The tiller cap is now on with only one ring.  The fit was exact; the hole were drilled in the right position.  In order to install we blocked the rudder post in the correct position, removed the temporary cap that was shown in the photo, and installed the new tiller cap.

Cheers,

Bob

[KWKloeber]

I don't know if on the water getting down the rudder stock and into the bilge is an issue on the C34 like on the 30 (some have build "dams" there out of silicone and other ugly stuff to redirect water running off the lazarette channels.)

But if it is an issue, why couldn't one affix the nylon thrust washer to the fiberglass (4200?) and then that would force water to run past it, rather then under it.

-Ken