Another Voltage Regulator Alternative?

Mike McDonald · August 28, 2013, 10:43:05 AM

Not to beat a dead horse, but has anyone tried one of these Voltage Regulators? Mainesail looked into these at one time, but I haven't seen a real review.

ProReg-D 12 Volt / 24 Volt Advanced Alternator Regulator

Read more: http://www.monstermarketplace.com/marine-battery-chargers/proreg-d-12-volt-24-volt-advanced-alternator-regulator#ixzz2dHle6QY7

Thanks,
Mike....

mainesail · August 28, 2013, 11:45:52 AM

Mike,

They are a decent "bare bones" external regulator, I've installed a few. They do however lack a lot of useful features and have limited voltage settings compared to a Balmar. They are inexpensive but are also quite exposed, as in not well sealed.. I've not had any of them fail but I only have a couple out there.

If on a budget they can work but I do feel the added expense for a Balmar ARS-5 or MC-614 are well worth it if converting to external regulation.

Stu Jackson · August 28, 2013, 12:00:59 PM

Here's another of Maine Sail's replies about this unit

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1016630&highlight=Sterling%20regulator

If it was my boat, I'd pop for a Balmar regulator. We have the predecessor to the currently available MC-614 called the MC-612. If you check the Electrical 101 topic, you'll some across Small Engine Mode, which the Sterling doesn't seem to have. I've found it a tremendously effective tool for reducing alternator loads after a night on the hook, rather than reprogramming the output through the reed switch.

I've also posted the wiring diagrams to convert from the OEM alternator to a higher output alternator with a new Balmar regulator to save you any hassle installing one.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4548.0.html

I know it's your money, Mike, but this really shouldn't be something you try to shave on.

The Sterling approach has always been to raise the bulk and absorption voltages beyond what many battery manufacturers recommend, and claim they charge faster. Malarkey, because only battery acceptance determines what the bank can absorb at a reasonable voltage. Too high a voltage can end up gassing and using up the battery acid. Not necessarily a good thing to do.

He also wrote:

"If you are already at 14.4V what is it you expect to get from the Sterling? Bulk is bulk, whether internal or external, and your absorption voltage is not half bad at 14.4V. Sure you can put a little more "pressure/voltage" in and go for 14.8V but it won't change much as the charging above 80% SOC is controlled by the bank acceptance. A few more tenths of a volt will increase "acceptance" slightly but not by a huge margin."

Maine Sail does like their battery charger, the regulator not so much.

Mike McDonald · August 28, 2013, 12:09:34 PM

Mainesail,
Thanks for the response. I'm not converting to external, that's what I already had. I have a Balmar ARS-4, mounted outside the engine compartment, that died. I just have some reservations because of the comments on several different forums, regarding the repeated failures of ARS and even some MC series regulators. Not always installed in hot engine compartments.
It sounds like you have had pretty good luck with Balmar's, and that's probably what I'll end up with. I'm just trying to look at all of the alternatives. It's not just the cost, the reliability concerns me. I always appreciate your input.

Hi Stu,
Just saw your post as I was typing. Thanks for the info. Don't know what I would do without the support of all of you on this forum. I really appreciate it.

Thanks.
Mike.....

Stu Jackson · August 28, 2013, 12:14:07 PM

Mike, stay with it, you're doin' just fine!

You might be interested in this, primarily Reply #7 from Maine Sail

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6469.0.html

Good luck. We're always here for you.

mainesail · August 29, 2013, 09:01:08 AM

Quote from: Mike McDonald on August 28, 2013, 12:09:34 PM
Mainesail,
Thanks for the response. I'm not converting to external, that's what I already had. I have a Balmar ARS-4, mounted outside the engine compartment, that died. I just have some reservations because of the comments on several different forums, regarding the repeated failures of ARS and even some MC series regulators. Not always installed in hot engine compartments.
It sounds like you have had pretty good luck with Balmar's, and that's probably what I'll end up with. I'm just trying to look at all of the alternatives. It's not just the cost, the reliability concerns me. I always appreciate your input.

Hi Stu,
Just saw your post as I was typing. Thanks for the info. Don't know what I would do without the support of all of you on this forum. I really appreciate it.

Thanks.
Mike.....

Yes I have had Balmar regulator failures, it does happen, but is still quite rare when properly installed. 95% of the failures I have seen have been in hot engine bays.

I have also had waaaaaaay more failures of dumb regulators, plotters, wind, depth, speed instruments, bilge pumps, bilge pump float switches, starter motors, tachometers and Marelon seacoks than anything I have seen from Balmar....

The Balmar regs are hands down the most programmable and flexible regulators on the market. They are also the most widely sold and used so you will hear about more failures of Balmar's than you would Sterling. Balmar sells probably 50:1 over Sterling in the US. Heck Xantrex uses Balmar to build their regulators now because Xantrex sucked at it and finally gave up. The Xantrex XAR is a Balmar product with a Xantrex label and Xantrex support...

Even Electromaax is now selling Balmar regulators. When your biggest competitor is selling your product with their alternators. I have tried them all and keep coming back to Balmar for the regulators specifically the MC-614..

Mike McDonald · August 29, 2013, 09:42:23 AM

I'm sold! Thanks for all of the great feedback. I really appreciate it. By the way, is the wiring harness the same for the ARS-4 and ARS-5. I may change it anyway, but just wondered. Thanks again.
Mike.....

Ron Hill · August 29, 2013, 02:00:32 PM

Mike : You've asked another Balmar question!!

However, as I recall I used my ARS 3 wiring harness, but had to add a wire from the ignition to power the ARS 5. Then I added the alternator case and battery temperature wires.

To be sure ask Balmar!!

Mike McDonald · August 29, 2013, 02:06:42 PM

Thanks Ron, I'll be sure to check with Balmar.
Mike....

Stu Jackson · August 29, 2013, 04:50:00 PM

Mike, don't forget to RTFM, maybe before you call Balmar, to be more specific with your questions (or maybe you won't even need to call them!

).

Ron Hill · August 29, 2013, 05:42:57 PM

When in doubt - Call the manufacturer - that's what they are there for!! A thought

mainesail · August 30, 2013, 04:02:39 AM

Quote from: Mike McDonald on August 29, 2013, 09:42:23 AM
I'm sold! Thanks for all of the great feedback. I really appreciate it. By the way, is the wiring harness the same for the ARS-4 and ARS-5. I may change it anyway, but just wondered. Thanks again.
Mike.....

The wiring harness 4 position plug is an old hold over from the Ford external regulator days in the 1940's, 50's & 60's... Balmar and many others, such as Cruising Equipment, Heart Interface, Xantrex, Electromaax etc. have used this same exact plug. The ARS-5 may have additional terminals but the Blue, Brown, Red, Black harness is the same plug that has been used for years.. The newer regulators can deliver more current to the field windings than the old ARS-4 could so it is best to use the new harness especially if the wire gauge is 12 instead of 14....