Steaming Light Replacement

[Ralph Masters]

This past weekend I completed the replacement of the "steaming" light on the front of the mast.  It seems the genie hits the light on tack changes and the old fitting gave up on me. 
I replaced it with a new fitting made by Hellamarine and I fitted it with an LED bulb.  Not because the LED only uses .3 watts, but because of the increased life of the LED.  (The steaming light is only on when motoring so it doesn't matter about the wattage draw).  I also installed a light guard from Forespar to protect the new light.
I used a block and tackle to get up the mast.  I made the rig from a set of fiddle blocks and 250 feet of ½ inch double braid.  I used ½ inch for the grip ability.  I attach my boatswain chair via a 5 inch locking carabineer.  To the long side of that I fitted a 6 inch cleat to tie off with once in position.  The 4 to 1 advantage of the rig means with me and my tools I'm pulling about 44 pounds force to get up.  Since I was working on the front of the mast I dropped the head sail and used the halyard for that to pull up the front of the mast.  I attached the fiddle with becket to the halyard and pulled it to the top, the fiddle without becket is attached to the boatswain chair.  The 250 feet of line gave me far more reach then I needed for our boats.
Just a few lessons learned to share, if you ever go up your mast check and recheck to ensure you have everything you think you will need while up there.
If drilling out stainless steel pop rivets wear jeans so the shavings from the drill don't burn your legs when they drop on you.
If you are removing a light fitting and installing a new one, check and recheck what wire goes where before you toss the old fitting down on the head sail laying on deck.  This will save you a trip down and back up to find out that bit of information.  I have three wires coming out of the mast, a red one, a black one and a light blue one.  The red is the steaming light, the light blue is the deck light, the black is the battery negative.
If anybody in the San Diego area needs to do some work on their mast feel free to contact me if you would like to borrow my rig.  scubaralph@gmail.com
One last note, this is not a task for the faint of heart.
Ralph
Ciao Bella
1987, 367

[Set2sea]

I was glad to see your post! Exactly waht I was looking for. My mast is down and hopefully going up next week so I am checking it over. My deck steaming light seems to be the old style Forespar with the deck light exposed. I thought I read that this was how it was done? Or did a cover fall off?  Also, I read that there should be a hallogen in there? Mine wasn't? I am thinking of replacing it while I have the mast down. It is riveted on. What size tap should I plan on - 10-32?
I bought an Aqua signal anchor light to replace the orininal dome type. I can't seem to pull enough wire to swop it out. I may run new wire for both new lights?

[patrice]

HI Paul,

I just did this before putting the mast up this spring.
Pulled new wires and changes all lights to LED.
Used the wires in place to pull the new ones.  One cable with 2 wires for anchor light, and you'll need another cable with 3 wires for running light.
Then you put the 2 grounds together at base of mast.
I put the new cables from the light end, so one person push the cable in the mast hole, will the other person pull carefully at the mast base.  I was afraid that the cable would not make it thru the hole.
And for the halogen light at the bottom, it is a standard light you get for your home.

[Ralph Masters]

Oh yeah, do it with the stick in the dirt, that's the easy way.

Ralph

[Set2sea]

Oh yeah, do it with the stick in the dirt, that's the easy way.

Ralph

"Stick in the dirt" I like that!
Okay, I will be back with some more questions but I must get some work done, job work - Boo Hoo!

[Ken Juul]

If the mast is down it is easier if you pull the mast cap off.  IIRC there is a through bolt that holds the mast cap in place.  All the wires to the top do a loop around the bolt so it holds the weight of the wire.

[Ralph Masters]

Last year when I replaced the mast head light (anchor light) I was able to remove the old one and install the new with LED bulb by running new wire while mast is mounted.  It was not an easy task but doable.
In my hind sight I should have replaced with a combination fitting of the tri color and anchor light.  But that's what 20/20 hind sight does for you.

Ralph

[Set2sea]

HI Paul,

I just did this before putting the mast up this spring.
Pulled new wires and changes all lights to LED.
Used the wires in place to pull the new ones.  One cable with 2 wires for anchor light, and you'll need another cable with 3 wires for running light.
Then you put the 2 grounds together at base of mast.
I put the new cables from the light end, so one person push the cable in the mast hole, will the other person pull carefully at the mast base.  I was afraid that the cable would not make it thru the hole.
And for the halogen light at the bottom, it is a standard light you get for your home.

Questions I have in having adequate mast lights (while my mast is down):
1. If I am going to pull new wires, what gauge? I have 14 for the anchor, seems heavy for that light? Have smaller for deck steam, not sure what gauge yet.
2. Can the original Forespar deck/steam light take LED bulbs?
3. Should I just plan on yanking the deck/steam and go new or should I clean up original and go with that? Are the newer ones that much better?

[patrice]

Hi Paul,

I got my LED from MarineBeam.

They fit as a replacement lights.  You need 2 models, one on the anchor light
http://store.marinebeam.com/44360defeled.html

And running light
http://store.marinebeam.com/44felednaliw.html

CHeck the end type on your, one has a point look, and the other a recess.
And total length.

[patrice]

Sorry,
I just clean the inside/outside of the lens, and are nice.
For the wire gauge, I actually went with 16, since the LED don't draw much.

[Ralph Masters]

For my anchor light with LED I ran 18 ga, more then enough for the LED.

Ralph

[Indian Falls]

Why are we pulling new wires?  Are they too short and you can't get them connected to your fixtures?  Are they known to be rubbing somewhere in the mast? Is the insulation falling off? 
I just replaced my steaming/deck and anchor light this spring. I saw no need to pull new wire...especially where upgrading to LED's.  I had a rats nest of bad connections, twisted wires, wire nuts, poorly crimped butt connectors which I straightened out readily using the existing wires.  It just seems crazy to put yourself through all that headache for no good reason, unless of course the wires burned from being shorted or are chaffed and unserviceable.  Hopefully we can save each other from unnecessary tasks by using this forum to put the pros and cons up for debate.  Don't do it just because someone thinks its a good idea.  I bought the plastic version from Catalina direct to replace my steaming/deck fixture.  Seems ok, installed in minutes.  The anchor light however did not match up to the old fixtures holes.  I simply epoxied this fixture to the mast head rather than drill and tap new holes.  We'll see if this was a good idea or not this fall when we take the mast down again.

[patrice]

Hi
I replaced my wires because mine where so oxidized.
I cut a few inches, and no good, cut close to the mast base and still not nice.
So this is only why i did replaced mine.

[Set2sea]

What about a deck steaming light guard? Forespar makes a guard to prevent the jib form hitting the deck/steam. Is this a good extra measure to take? Or is this a non-issue on a C34?

[Ed Shankle]

Set2Sea,
Funny you mention that. When we first got the boat and were bringing it up from Conn, the furler got stuck as we were preparing to anchor in Point Judith. It was really piping and the jib sheets were flailing away, and did exactly as you describe! Wacked the steaming/deck light and sent it flying. My wife, at the helm, reached out and caught it! Shoulda sent her to the Sox for a tryout...

Ed