Fresh water head supply

[ghebbns]

Hi all,

I am about to install a new head system in the boat.  In reading the tech wiki, I like the idea of using the starboard fresh water tank as a supply for the head.  My C30 always suffers from "stink" from the salt-water sitting ideal.

My plan is to run a hose directly from the water tank to the head with a t-connection to the thru-hull just in case I run out of fresh water.  In reading about this setup, I don't see any mention of a vented loop.  While the head may be above the water tank, I am concerned that on a starboard tack, water may siphon from the tank to the head.  Should I still install the vented loop (obviously between the bowl and the pump).  Anything else I need to be aware of in this setup?

Thanks,

Greg

[Roc]

Greg,
No need to plumb directly to your fresh water tank. Just put a "T" after the head sink drain and run a hose to your toilet intake.  When you want to flush with fresh water, close the seacock, put water in the sink, then pump the head.  When you need to flush with raw water, put the strainer in the sink (to close it off), open the seacock to draw in the water, then pump the head.  Much easier set up than plumbing into your fresh water system.  This is what Peggie always advised.  Mine has been set up like this for years.  Costs no more than buying a $3 "T" to splice in.

[Mick Laver]

Greg - I'll second Roc's comments. I did this on both my 30 and 34. An obvious advantage is that it doesn't matter which fresh water tank you're using - you can always flush with fresh water. I might add that if you put the T below the waterline (double hose clamped, of course) you don't have to plug the sink to flush with raw water.

[Roland Gendreau]

Alternatively, pull out the head sink faucet, turn on the water and direct flow into the head!

[Roc]

Maybe it doesn't matter, but I put the "T" in as high up as possible, above the waterline, just so there wasn't an extra connection below the waterline.  I still double clamped it.

The problem with using the faucet to fill the bowl with fresh water, instead of pumping it from the filled sink, is that the water doesn't go "through" the bowl cavities.  If you did use raw water previously, that will stay inside the bowl cavity, ferment and create a stench.  Constantly flushing with fresh water THROUGH the entire bowl cavity, keeps it smelling nice.  What I also do is use CP cleaner.  I put water in the sink, pour some CP in the sink, then when I pump it to the head, the water + CP goes through the whole system, inside the bowl cavity.  The main reason to flush with fresh water is to keep the insides of the bowl cavity clean.  Many times the smell actually comes from the raw water that stinks INSIDE the bowl cavity.

[Ron Hill]

Greg : There are some that plumbed in fresh water for every flush - your choice.

What I found is that it's the salt water SITTING in the hoses when the boat isn't used, that generate the smell.  I religiously flush the entire head system with fresh water when we park the boat.  Otherwise we us a salt water flush.  Easy to flush the system, I written it up many many times!

A thought

[tommyt]

I agree with Roland. It's there, it works, and no new plumbing. Can someone explain the advantage of plumbing direct? Maybe I am miussing something.

[stevewitt1]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned about using fresh water is contamination.
Am I to assume that when you do this you use that tank exclusively for flushing and now keep it totally isolated from your potable water source?
If not, the potential for contamination in the system would not be worth the risk for me.  I understand it is easy for me to talk as I boat on the Great Lakes, but sick is sick.

Just wondering because I'm a freak about water and you'd swear I boat on the Sahara.

Steve

visit us on www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

[Stu Jackson]

Greg,

I strongly urge you to reconsider your idea and don't do it.

The "101 Topics" has this:

Head Odors 101.1 - "T" into sink drain:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.msg38216.html#msg38216

It's that simple.

The idea of using the head sink wand doesn't help, because the salt water is still sitting in the hose from the thru hull to the the head pump and in the little holes inside the bowl of the head itself.

I believe that using a water tank to serve a head is foolish, useless, unnecessary, and not good for resale value.  Especially when the answers have been developed and documented.

The dangers of cross contamination are too great, even if it's only salt and water tanks you're planning to connect.

Want to know how I really feel about it?   

[BOB FLEEGE]

Just a little more comment on this subject.  I added a T fitting on the line from the stern tank...more water and more boat balance.  From that T fittling I installed a one way valve.  That line goes to a 3 way valve mounted on top of the head thru hull valve.  This valve can direct sea water in to flush or direct fresh water directly to the head.  There is an anti ziphon on top of the loop from the 3 way valve to direct water to the head for flushing.  My result is a sweet smelling head near shore with no extra steps like pulling drippy shower faucet over head or putting fresh water in the head sink.  Off shore the seawater side can be used to conserve water.  Another plus with this system is that my head thru hull is closed 90 percent of the time.

[mark_53]

I have not noticed this problem yet.  Maybe our pristine waters in PNW.  I sometimes spray scolding hot water throughout the shower and head exterior.  After leaving the boat, I leave the head door open and make sure the head has no seawater in the bowl.