Sherwood Redux

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The only thing I can say - If it works for you DO IT!!

Just be advised that Westerbeke does not recommend an Oberdoffer raw water pump on a M35BC engine. 

Your choice your boat.  Out here.

[reedbr]

I'm a little hesitant to add to this thread since it seems to have a "which pump is better" vein running through it. However, the Information is dead on what I need to do so if we can assume I want to keep my Sherwood pump (10 seasons under my ownership, 600+ hours, first issue is now), what are the repair parts?  I've read a couple threads on the water seal usually being the issue and I have signs of that in a rusty water trail in that area. However, at the end of last year I saw evidence of oil in the same area. If I'm doing the work, I think I should look at doing both. I see a new pump is around $400. A "rebuild kit" is $270 that includes the shaft. Both seem like overkill if it is just replaceable rubber seals. My parts information is from here:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&catalog=201021&model=M-25XPB%20M-35B%20M-40B&page_ident=201021-50&manufacturer=Universal&title=RAW%20WATER%20PUMP&size=600

Any part recommendations? This is a 1997 MkII M35B, 1060 hours total, on it's original pump if paint is any indicator. Thanks in advance.

[Ron Hill]

Brian : There isn't a post/article as how to repair the oil seal side of the Sherwood because I haven't written it - yet!!
 
If your pump is leaking oil from the center weep holes rather than where it's attached to the engine, I'd recommend a complete rebuild to include a new stainless shaft with the 2 new seals.

A number of us that plan on keeping our boats, have purchased a spare pump.  So when we run into any problem, we replace the problem pump, continue sailing and rebuild the old pump at our convince.

I'd first call DEPCO (800)445-1656 and talk to the rebuild people (shop not parts) and get an estimate from them.  Look at your pump and there should be a metal tag on it with the model #.  I'll guess (from the year of your boat) it's a 908 model.  They do a less than a week turn around. 
If it's a 908 pump you don't have to send them the brass water housing with the water connections you can leave them on the engine). You can check the wear plate and or turn it around yourself. You can also just get a new "O" ring and paper gasket. You can also get a new wear plate is necessary (if yours is scratched/scored).

A few thoughts

[reedbr]

Ron-

Thanks for the reply. I see signs of leaking in that raw water pump area, but the pump is never wet or oily directly at the weep holes when I look. I've been watching it to find the smoking gun, but when the oil pressure alarm went off Monday I took it as my sign to start replacing parts. I realize the two are probably unrelated. My oil leak could be the pump to block gasket (or pump to head, I can't remember which). The rusty water could be the raw water seal. While I haven't seen the weep holes wet, the amount of corrosion right there leads me to believe the raw water seal is shot at a minimum and not something else like a leaking hose.

So I'm narrowing my options down to:
(1) New pump $360 (Engines1 in Norfolk)
(2) DEPCO (FL) rebuild (any estimate on the cost?)
(3) Cheap it out and do a raw water seal and pump-to-block gasket and watch it some more.

I'm cheap but $360 isn't much in the marine diesel world these days. The only tool I don't have is a hydraulic press, but I can get access to one if needed. You're an old aviation mechanic and you've got over 2000 hours on your M25, right? What would be your next move? The boat is 2 hours from home and I only get down there about twice a month.

[Ron Hill]

Brian : First of all I learned the mechanical stuff because I flew aircraft that didn't have a flying crew chief - self preservation!

My old engine had 5000 hrs on it until I gave up fixing it, too difficult to keep taking the engine out of the boat.  After 24 years and that time I treated myself.  Beside it doesn't make any sense to be know as a "richest man in the graveyard" so I bought a new over priced engine.

Ask DEPCO on the price of a new pump, I'm sure they can beat Engine 1 price (also figure in Sales tax and Shipping)

If there isn't a visible water drip coming out of the weep hole while it's running you can keep running the engine, but keep an eye on it.  The paper gasket is only a few $$ and that's easy to change out - but if there isn't oil running down the engine under where the pump bolts on to the engine block that is NOT the oil leak. 

It all depend on how much rust to have on the pump body, but if you can only get down to the boat twice a month I'd recommend that next trip take off the pump body and send it off to DEPCO and have them rebuild it.  If the stainless shaft is OK they won't replace it. They just might put in two new oil seals?  They are a trustworthy company - from my dealing with them over 15 + years

A few thoughts

[TonyP]

reedbr

this link may help though for a different pump.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/raw_water_pump

good luck

Tony

[Jack Hutteball]

Brian, I just had Depco do a complete rebuild (on same shaft) on my pump.  Cost with shipping both ways from Anacortes Washington was just under $300.  In the past I was able to buy a new pump for $240, so just did a replacement, but Westerbeke keeps the price up there now.  If you can find a new one for around $300 I would go for it (and let all of us know where!)

On another note, your original pump did extremely well at over 1000 hours.  Mine have all had leaks in the water seal around 160 hours.  Now on pump #4 with 690 hours on the engine.  Do you have a secret for pump longevity?

Jack

[Mick Laver]

I got my 908 from A-Z Marine in SD. Their price was $358 which was about as good as I'd seen on the Internets. DEPCO refurbed my old one for $139, return shipping included. They said it wasn't in "bad shape" though it was weeping and it had been over 250 hrs since it had been replaced ( maintenance record from PO.)

[Stu Jackson]

DEPCO appears to represent Sherwood, as well as Oberdorfer (http://www.depcopump.com/brands.php).

Ron has noted many times that Sherwood doesn't discount their pumps, so the price is usually higher than an Oberdorfer.

Wondering if anyone has prices for Sherwoods quoted from DEPCO, too, and if they're competitive with other Sherwood pricing.

[reedbr]

Tony, that pump rebuild page was good.

Jack, I'm the only person who has touched this engine in the last 10 seasons so I'm pretty sure my pump life is luck and not skill. I change my impeller every other year, use some waxy water pump grease the yard gave me once, leave the impeller in over the winter and the boat winters in the water every year but one so far. I close all seacocks when I leave the boat and don't leave it plugged in to shore power when I'm gone (mostly because I've still got the original Flyback charger). I cruise at 2000 rpm, change the oil every fall and the strainer every spring. I winterize with propylene glycol. My cruising ground is brackish water. I don't think there is anything on the list that 80% of the forum users don't do, so I guess I'm just lucky so far.

[reedbr]

Following up on this, I called DEPCO as suggested and they gave me the following estimate for my Sherwood pump:

Basic parts: $232.26
Shaft (if needed): $126.03
Labor: $50
plus shipping (both ways)

I came up with $325-$450. Instead I just bought a new pump from Engines1 in Norfolk for $368 plus tax (free shipping). Depco also said they would sell me a new pump for $458.10. Nice guys and very helpful at both DEPCO and Engines1. The website at  marinedieselsdirect.com (Torresen) is the best for research though.

I might buy some seals and do a cheap rebuild of the old one myself for a backup too. Thanks for everybody's help.