Need Chain Plate Re-bedding advice

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Mark Sutherland

I have an '86 C34.  I want to preserve and protect the value of my boat as much as possible and I believe that protecting the core of my decking is crucial to this goal.  I've read all of the content on "potting"(with epoxy) the chain plate openings.  Potting is a time consuming process, which I'm willing to do if necessary.  However, if I open up the chain plate deck opening and observe that the core is solid and free of rot, am I taking sufficient preventive action by simply "coating"(with a brush and epoxy) the walls of the opening in order to seal the core surfaces that may become exposed to leaking between periodic re-bedding intervals?  Also, if the core is solid, but perhaps a little wet, does the application of rubbing alcohol help in drying the core surface before coating it with epoxy?  Any other suggestions on drying would be great. By the way, I opened up one chain plate hole yesterday just so see what my core looked like.  I needed to close it back up quickly, so I rebedded it with Butyl Tape.  I gotta say that Butyl Tape is pretty awesome stuff.  SUPER easy to work with and cleanup was an absolute breeze.  Thanks All.
Dunrobin II, 1986 C34 MK1 #170

mregan

I would think if the core is dry, brushing on epoxy to seal it would work fine.  Not sure about the rubbing alcohol for drying though.

scotty

Can't remember exactly, but I remember a real downside to using alcohol (perhaps that is with a foam core).
Scotty

Footloose

Mark,

Potting the holes in the deck is time consuming but having to tear apart your deck because of a rotten core is worse.  I have used acetone to dry areas of the deck before applying epoxy.  I would stay away from alcohol as it is a thinner for epoxy and may soften areas of the deck although temporarily.  I suppose it could cause the deck to delaminate from the core.  Think of this as a one time investment of time. 
Dave G.
"Footloose"
Hull# 608  1988 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
Malletts Bay, VT- Lake Champlain

Ted Pounds

Check out the threads on using butyl tape for bedding.  Lasts much longer than caulk and is easier to use.  Just a thought...

Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Mark Sutherland

Dave/Footloose, Thanks for the tip on the acetone vs alcohol.  Re: the "Potting" of the holes, If the core is in good shape, can I simply do a thin coat of epoxy(with a brush) on the exposed core surface vs hollowing the core(with dremel), filling it 100% with epoxy, and cutting out a new hole for the chain plate?  My thinking is that coating the walls of the holes is a "lite" version of potting, the difference being the final thickness of the epoxy covering the core.  I'm just not familiar with working with epoxy.  I did a little testing with the West System Six 10 yesterday, and it appears that brushing the stuff on would yield a pretty thick coating on the walls of my chain plate cut-out.  If coating the core with a brush is considered half-ass, then I'll go ahead and use the full-blown potting method(hollow out core, fill, cut/re-drill, etc).  Thanks
Dunrobin II, 1986 C34 MK1 #170

Footloose

Mark,

If you don't want to do the full blown potting, I would apply a layer of thinned epoxy first and then use one or two more layers of unthinned epoxy.  Mix a small amout of alcohol into the cup with the epoxy to thin it.  it does take much.  This might give you some additional penetration into the core.  If you are not familiar with using the West System, use the slow hardener as it will buy you some time.  Also, a cool day gives you more working time.

I am sure others will weigh in on this.
Dave G.
"Footloose"
Hull# 608  1988 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
Malletts Bay, VT- Lake Champlain

Phil Spicer

 Footloose has a good call. Another thing you could think about, remove about 1/8" of core with your dremel, paint the core with the thin epoxy, then fill with the thickened epoxy. Not a lot of work. That would put the epoxy back under the core, giving a good seal.....Just another thought.
  Don't forget to put tape over the hole on the inside of the boat. Seal it better than my friend sealed his first epoxy job.
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Stu Jackson

Quote from: marksutherland on February 03, 2013, 01:25:52 PM
1)  I have an '86 C34.  I want to preserve and protect the value of my boat as much as possible and I believe that protecting the core of my decking is crucial to this goal. 

2)  However, if I open up the chain plate deck opening and observe that the core is solid and free of rot, am I taking sufficient preventive action by simply "coating"(with a brush and epoxy) the walls of the opening in order to seal the core surfaces that may become exposed to leaking between periodic re-bedding intervals? 

Mark,

1) is always a good goal.

2)  Until and unless you actually open them up, you simply won't know what's there.  The one I did recently showed NO wetness, and I'd used silicone (gasp!!!) many, many years earlier.  This time I used butyl, which,as you say, is great to work with.  You most likely have seen this:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430

While it's a good idea to "plan ahead" and "be prepared" you may, just may, be overthinking this one until you open them up.  If you're as lucky as I was, butyl may be all you need.

Good luck, please keep us posted.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

stevewitt1

#9
Mark
I'm far from being an expert as others that replied to you but one tip I liked was:

Before bedding with butyl tape use a countersink on the topside of your holes.  Run your drill in reverse with it and let it wear a bevel on the top of your bolt holes.  This will allow a thicker layer of butyl tape next to the bolt. When tightening things the butyl tape can be compressed to less than 1/16 in. which if any working on the plates or stanchions may allow it to separate from the plate or deck.  The thicker tape compressed in the beveled area allows the butyl to stretch with those ever so slight movements while retaining its adhesion between the deck and plate.  I have a 1989 hull 854 and plan on potting mine this spring. With Lake Michigan levels I might have a high and dry summer and lots of time to work on the boat, haha.  Someone tell the Corps to plug the big drain hole in The St. Clair they created or at least put the cork back in for some time.

Steve

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

karista

I am currently also rebedding my chain plates for the first time. The boat is 23 years old and the cores where solid and dry, so I plan to only brush on a thin layer of epoxy. It did just fine for 23 years w/o any epoxy so adding a coat of epoxy is better than no coat. The more important task is to insure the moisture is kept out by doing a thourough bedding job.
Catalina used Silicone and has held up remarkable well as I have had no leaks in 23 years.
Bernd, 1990- Hull 1012, Gulfport, FL