Winterizing engine

[patrice]

Hi All,

I did a quick search, but did not found much on winterizing our engine ( 25xp ).
Unfortunately, some of us, living in the north need to houl out and put our boat in 'hibernation'.
Is there something special to do, exept remove water from heat exchanger ?
I was going to put the inlet water pump hose into a bucket with plumbing anti-freeze, and have it run thru the system.
And remove the impeller from the pump, so it won't dry in the shape.

Any ideas welcome.

And a oil change too.

[tonywright]

Oil change is good to do first - should always be done with a warm engine.

Once out of the water, then do pretty much as you suggest.  I take off the water inlet hose from the thru hull, add a three foot length of hose (with an elbow fitting, clamped) and put the end into a large container of non-toxic plumbing antifreeze. Turn on the engine and run it until the exhaust water is dark pink (no more water diluting it). Turn it off and you are done. Make sure that any water runs out of the thru hull before closing it and reinstalling the inlet hose. Removing the impeller for storage has been recommended many times.

Then of course there is the emptying of all the water tanks, and making sure the batteries are fully charged before disconnecting them etc.

Tony

[Ralph Masters]

Here in San Diego winterizing consists of topping up the frige with beer and go sailing.  It's tough but some one has to do it.

Ralph

[Clay Greene]

We find that two gallons of antifreeze does it for getting the water out of the engine and the muffler.  We splurge on the -100 antifreeze for the cold winters here in Wisconsin.  The residual water in the engine dilutes the antifreeze so I figure better safe than sorry.  Peace of mind on a cold winter night is priceless.

We change the oil twice and then replace the oil filter.  We also replace the Racor and engine fuel filters.  We top off the transmission fluid and leave it completely full over the winter.  We pull the impeller at the end of the process. 

We empty the water tanks and the water heater and then run antifreeze through the water system, both hot and cold.  After getting a pump-out, we run antifreeze through the head and into the waste tank. 

We top off the diesel and then put in Stabil for storage. 

We take off our batteries and store them at home.  Finally, all soft goods like cushions or anything that could get mildew comes home. 

Good luck!

[Stu Jackson]

Hi All,

I did a quick search, but...

And a oil change too.

In addition to the Board, don't forget the wiki (engine section) ---  only a simple click at the top of this page.  And the Tech Notes Online.

[Roger Blake]

And on my boat, have to winterize the heat pump system (HVAC) and the shower sump and pump.

[patrice]

Hi all,
Thanks for your replies.

Stu, I did look at wiki. But no info on engine winterizing.
It might be good idea to add these replies to start a section on this topic.

[Clay Greene]

The Universal engine manual has some guidance on winter storage.

[Ron Hill]

Patrice : There have been numerious articles written on winterization.
 
There is the engine, head, holding tank, water tanks, water heater, shower sump, fridge drain, water pump and the connecting lines.
You can blow out most with a wet/dry shop vac. On dry land don't forget to take the fuse out of the bilge pump wire.

On the engine if you use 1 gallon (-60) is enough to take care of the engine HX and muffler.  To be sure then drain the HX and change out the Zn right away.  Beside taking out the impeller, I also take the tension off of the drive belt and clean the intake air cleaner.

A few thoughts 

[Stu Jackson]

Hi all,
Thanks for your replies.

Stu, I did look at wiki. But no info on engine winterizing.
It might be good idea to add these replies to start a section on this topic.

Patrice,

Under Maintenance:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Winterization_Tips

and

http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-winterization.html

[Kevin Henderson]

I'm glad that we don't have to go through that process here in San Diego.  On the other hand I can see where it would sometimes be nice to have the boat on the hard to really tear into some projects over the winter.

Mainsail had posted a thread about winterizing a boat in the Catalina Owners forum.  And as most things from MS, his thoroughness is impeccable.  Although not specific to the 25XP (engine winterizing is covered) he goes into detail about several other things to check and winterize before laying up. 

I'll be thinking of you through the winter while we endure our boring same old weather everyday in San Diego. (74 and sunny)    



Boat Interior & Electronics:
*Remove most electronics and store indoors
*Remove all cushions and store in barn
*Remove all canvas, wash, treat and store in barn
*Remove solar panel
*Remove sails and drop at sail maker for winter cleaning/inspection
*Clean bilges
*Clean all stainless with Spotless Stainless
*Remove all food and "freezable" items
*Clean ice box with bleach and leave stored open for air circulation
*Change battery in solar vent
*Cinch all block and tackle assemblies such as main sheet and vang
*Remove speed or speed/depth insert and clean/lube o-rings

Head & Holding Tank
*Clean head, lube pump and winterize by sucking in PG
*Drain holding tank (while still in water) and fill with bleach & water let sit for a week and get pumped out or hit 3NM and macerate overboard.
*Thoroughly drain holding tank
*Remove drain plugs on seacocks and drain valve body
*Leave seacocks open on hard


Fresh Water System
*Drain both tanks entirely then wipe dry via clean out port
*Drain water heater and blow out with compressor
*By-pass water heater
*Remove fresh water system filter
*Remove faucet mounted Brita filter
*Suck in -50 PG into fresh water system HOSES ONLY open faucets one at a time to get AF at tap.

Engine:
*Change oil & filter
*Change oil only (second time to get fully clean)
*Change gear box fluid
*Drain & fill/change engine AF (every two years)
*Test freeze point of engine ethylene glycol (every year)
*Change HX zinc
*Change both primary and secondary fuel filters
*Change fuel polishing system filter
*Drain fuel tank and burn in homes heating system
*Change zinc in Sea Frost HX
*Clean intake strainer
*Flush RW circuit by SUCKING fresh water through it
*AF raw water side of system
*Remove impeller and prep cover plate and gasket surfaces for spring
*Remove air cleaner and seal off intake with plastic
*Remove exhaust hose and seal outlet with plastic
*Remove glow plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders

Boat:
Wash hull
Remove any waterline staining
Wax hull
Cover boat
Pressure wash bottom and clean out thru-hulls

Battery Bank:
*Charge banks to full
*Check electrolyte level
*Check cell balance via specific gravity (after 24 hour rest)
*If low fill and recharge or equalize
*Re-check cell balance (if out of balance before equalize)
*Test batteries with Midtrionics and Argus analyzers, record test specs
*100% Disconnect battery bank from boat (neg leads)
*Leave batteries on-board to take advantage of cold temps on bank longevity
*Top up with charger once or bi-monthly through out winter

[Stu Jackson]

That's a good list from Maine Sail, but

--- you need to completely fill the transmission with fluid, then in the spring time remove enough to the basic correct fill level

--- you do NOT need to nor you should remove the glow plugs

--- don't see a need to remove the exhaust hose either

Follow the stuff provided in the links I gave you.

Good luck.

[Clay Greene]

FYI, I know some people drain and then bypass their water heater.  The manual for the Seaward water heater recommends running antifreeze through the water heater.  I believe their thinking is that you can never get all the water out through draining so better to run antifreeze through to avoid expansion from freezing.

[lazybone]

Why does the trans need to be completly filled?

I have two summer only cars that I do not completly fill.
I have a large lawn tractor that needs no such thing.

I don't get it?

[Stu Jackson]

Why does the trans need to be completly filled?

I have two summer only cars that I do not completly fill.
I have a large lawn tractor that needs no such thing.

I don't get it?

Because the Manual says to do it?

It's to keep the seals lubed when the transmission isn't used for long periods of time.