Charging with Honda 1000

Ron Hill · August 19, 2012, 05:48:09 PM

Steve : I didn't mean it that way.

If you really want a cranky 1st Mate, on an extanded anchor - run the main engine 30-45 minutes twice a day and she will become unhappy!! Beside it is not good for a diesel to idle (1500rpm or less) for that time day after day.

What you're going to find is that there is NO engine that is a direct drop in. it will take some modification to get a new one in. With the price of fuel be prepared to pay a heftey sum just to get the new engine delivered ($300?) unless you have a pickup, get it yourself and have a forklift/chain hoist at the other end to unload it!! Prices are crazy.

Then there are the new hoses, wiring, exhaust riser, hardware, new insulation, new stainless shaft etc etc etc. It all adds up fast!!

So just don't look at the price of the engine. A few thoughts

stevewitt1 · August 19, 2012, 06:33:46 PM

Thanks Ron,

I hope you realize I was being slightly facetious. I do have a slightly warped sense of humor. Maybe that's why I don't have to worry about the First Mate anymore.
Back on a serious note. I would hope the M25-XP would not be a beast to do a major overhaul. In the past, Universal did a great number on charging an arm and leg for an engine kit for the Atomic 4. My friend was able to get the parts cost down to around $600 if you didn't need a new crank. I don't remember the exact issue but it had something to do with the oil pump. He did however outsource all bearings, valves, pistons, rings rods, etc. I ibelieve leaving only gaskets from OEM source.
I just gave him a call right now and posed the question on my M25-xp about cost to overhaul. He asked how far I would want to go, injectors serviced, pump serviced, etc. and I told him yes. His big question was if I could locate a Kabota manual for the engine. If part were available he said it would run approx. $1,500 to do a major overhaul on it. This was only a guess given the stated criteria.
Steve

Stu Jackson · August 19, 2012, 10:45:34 PM

Steve,

Engine manuals are available here on this website.

Engines? http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Rebuilding_the_M25-XP

Just kiddin'

Ron Hill · August 20, 2012, 05:46:42 PM

Steve : Opening up an old engine is always an adventure.

I hope that you can do that major overhaul for twice the quote price.

+ If you haven't changed engine mounts and a few other items, NOW is the time to do it!!

Good luck.

stevewitt1 · August 20, 2012, 06:44:31 PM

Ron
Now, to be honest, you have me slightly scared.

My boat: 1989 #854
engine 1094 hrs had 1020 6/1/12when I picked it up.
engine compartment extremely clean. Same owners the last 20-21 years before me that changed oil twice/year and averaged just under 50hrs/year, I did a courtesy change at 1034 when I arrived back at OYC and changed twice since. Zero detectable oil consumption at the 30+hr marks. Dripless coupler, injectors serviced at 900hrs just because recommended. My (untrained) eyes see no signs of any corrosion, pitting, or paint discoloration on engine mounts. Are these prone to unexpected failure?
I believe it has the original exchanger. Lift pump impellors changed annual, need it or not. I have probably 5 used ones that look like new. Engine runs at just under 160F when running 2700-2750 rpm. Once it was running up just over 180F under load. Backed it down to 1600rpm until out of shipping channel then cleaned strainer, but ultimately removed it from the thru hull and pushed some obstruction out of the intake. Never over 160F since. And I keep a constant eye on the temp.

What parts should I consider replacing as a preventive measure? I would rather preempt problems and I do appreciate the advice of those such as yourself that are the experts.

Steve

Stu Jackson · August 20, 2012, 06:51:09 PM

Quote from: stevewitt1 on August 20, 2012, 06:44:31 PM
What parts should I consider replacing as a preventive measure? I would rather preempt problems and I do appreciate the advice of those such as yourself that are the experts.

Steve, you've done well. Just read the Critical Upgrades topic. Also, PLEASE, do NOT "Curb Your Enthusiasm!"

scotty · August 20, 2012, 09:20:55 PM

It sounds, Steve, like your engine is running like a champ. Yes, keep up with all the maintenance and yes, the critical upgrades are really helpful. I follow these threads and get lots of ideas too. However, one reason we love our diesels is that with proper care we can get years and years of service out of them! My '87 engine is going strong (knock on wood!) and hopefully yours will last a very long time.

Craig Illman · August 21, 2012, 10:51:15 AM

Steve - Spend the $25-30 and get your oil tested annually. It will give you hints on what may be wearing out. 1100 hours is very low. I had over 3000 hours on mine when I sold it. The compression was low from charter neglect, thus it started a little hard, but it still ran ok.

Craig

Ron Hill · August 21, 2012, 01:58:45 PM

Steve : I'm not too sure how this topic of running a Honda eu1000 got twisted into where we are now??
The Honda is quieter, more economical, and easier on your diesel (which doesn't like to idle, it just to charge batteries - that's what a solar panel or a wind generator or a little Honda is for.

From what you've said I not too sure why you would even want to pull your M25XP engine out of your boat and would even want to rebuild it???

If you still have the original engine mounts you probably want to replace them as they transmitted any and all vibrations to the hull - they were BAD. Maybe yours have been changed - I don't know? When changing the oil filter most people dripped some oil on the front port side engine mount and the rubber inside the mount deteriorated. If any of the other mounts had any petroleum based liquid on them (ie Prestone) the same can happen. Also engine mounts tend to wear even from the weight of the engine sitting on them. A poor engine mount/mounts are difficult to keep the engine to shaft aligned!
Many of us have replaced our insulation/sound proofing in the engine compartment along with any hoses that are the color of your engine.

It sounds to me like you have a well maintained C34. You can read the lengthy Critical updates and see if any of them apply to your C34. Then you decide what you may want to tackle.

A few thoughts

bayates · September 12, 2012, 03:15:03 AM

A little late to the party but thought I would jump in. I have an eu2000 that is great. I spent 3 days on the ball at Catalina before I hit 60% on the house bank and wanted to top off. The "iron" charger does work but is noisy and diesels like a load so it is not really good for it. We put the 2000 up on the bow and run the SP cord back. It charges and heats the water. Took ~3.5 hours to get back to 90+%.

The 2000 is almost always onboard in the port locker tucked away. One of the best investments we have made.

stevewitt1 · September 12, 2012, 06:00:15 AM

bayates

Sorry for appearing to be lazy here, but what port locker do you store your Eu2000 in? Is it the cockpit locker? If so, does it stand up in there on its feet? Just thought I'd pick your brain before trying to unload the quagmire of things I have fit like a 3D puzzle in my hatch. This thread has changed my view on how to figure out which current bush to plug into for stays on the hook. I always used my Eu2000 in my former life as a stinkpotter on my 3270 MotorYacht. The biggest downside I've found so far is, where to stow it and having to carry the extra volatile gasoline. With my last sailboat (Allmand 31) I did use to M4-30 for recharging and heating water but it does make more sense to use the Honda given the cost and wear factors. I will say this; my M4-30 was a extremely Smooth running engine at All rpm's verses the M25-XP. I find this odd as I was once told that the best natural balance for a 4-stoke engine is a 3-cyl. But then I might have been told an old first-mate's (wives) tale.

Steve

visit us at: www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

tonywright · September 12, 2012, 09:05:49 AM

The cockpit lockers are different between the MKI and the MKII. The EU2000 will obviously fit on the MKII. Not sure about the MKI: need a MKI owner to confirm.

Re the eralier part of the thread, running with ECO turned off on the Xantrex charger, I tested Ron's theory about switching to ECO mode after 30 minutes. On a first test this worked fine.

Tony

Roland Gendreau · September 12, 2012, 09:45:03 AM

I don't have a Honda 2000, but I measured the height of the lazarette compartment in my mk1.5 and it was shorter than the height of a 2000.

Ron Hill · September 12, 2012, 03:07:04 PM

Roland : You can probably get the Honda 2000 in a MK I port cockpit lazerette if you tilt it sideways and shove it all the way back to port.

It's a bit difficult to get in and out, but I'm sure you can do it. Can your 1st Mate do it? - probably not. A thought

Ken Juul · September 13, 2012, 05:02:44 AM

Unless you drain the Honda, I don't think the cockpit locker has enough ventilation to keep it gas fume free. I keep mine on the cockpit floor in front of the pedestal. It is under the table out of the way. Still room for 2 of us to use the table, if we have guests, when anchored or docked, move to the cabin top.