Charging with Honda 1000

[Bobg]

Ran my house bank down to 50% while on the hook, thought I would charge them with my honda 1000, connected the generator to the AC inlet, made sure all AC items were unplugged or disconnected, hot water heater, Ect. I have a newer model Pro Mariner 20 Amp charger.  I have done this before, I know the honda puts out around 7 amps, can't remember what the pro mariner needs but was in specs last time I looked it up, anyway, the Honda runs ok for awhile, then spits and sputters and dies, I may get about 15 minutes each time I start it. However, I use it all the time to run other things at home for hours at a time and it runs fine, got me stummped, is it too small?  If memory serves, I do believe I used it last year, it spit and stumbled, then evened out and charged the batterys for about 3 hours.  too much draw initially?  Ron you have one, ever used it to charge your batteries via shore power recepticle?  Bob

[noworries]

I had a Yamaha 1000.  I realized it's not very useful... sold it and waiting to find a deal on a eu2000... but haven't had any luck yet.

[Stephen Butler]

We have a Honda 1000 and have regularly used it to charge the house bank while on the hook. Connected via the shore power plug.  The only time we experienced the difficulties you discribed was when we had some bad fuel.  Drained the tank, loaded new clean fuel, cleaned the plug, and got back to normal operation.  Hope this is a help.

[David Urscheler]

The Hondas have an automatic shut-off if the oil level is low. It doesn't seem to have to drop very far before it activates. That would be the first thing I'd check. Dirty fuel would definitely be the second.

[Stephen Butler]

Will second the post regarding the oil level...keep it correctly full and the unit reasonably level when operating. 

[tonywright]

Make sure you are not running it on ECO mode. The "intelligent" power controller might be causing the problem. I turn ECO off when using it to charge batteries.

Tony

[Ron Hill]

Bob : I charge my batteries with the Honda 1000 using the shore power receptical all the time.

7amps seems a bit low for a 20 amp charger.  When I had a Xantrax 20 it would charge start charging at approx 12-15 amps and then dwindle to below 10 amps as the batteries filled up.
 
Not too sure what the Pro Marniner draws. Run in the ECO mode and watch to see if the red overload light comes on, if it does then try this.  You can run in the "Hi rpm" mode for 30 minutes with out damage to the motor.  After 30 minutes drop it down and then continue to run in the ECO mode.  Always watch to see if any of the red warning lights are coming ON.

As others have mentioned, make sure that the oil level is correct.   

[tonywright]

I ran into the following problem with ECO mode: the Xantrex charger reduces the power draw as the batteries top up. The Honda responds by reducing RPM and power output. The Xantrex responds by ramping up the demand for power, and so the Honda surges, and so on.

Net result: a Honda that surges up and down: lights on the Xantrex remote surging up and down and a sense that something is about to explode! Leave it running with ECO mode turned off and all is fine. The 30 minute limit applies to running with a load of more than 900 watts. I can't see any limit to running in non-ECO mode.

Tony

[stevewitt1]

I used to use my eu2000 to charge on my last boat (stinkpot 3270) that had a newer 30amp 3/bank charger.  With batteries pulled down that charger used approx 700 watts or just about 6 amp.  I don't see why the 1000 wouldn't handle it fine expecially after 30 minutes or so of charging as the draw from the charger should gradually reduce.

I still have issues with the C34 wiring.  When I plug my inverter in, it goes into alarm mode with my main breaker and all breakers switched off!   Go figure?

Steve
visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com
and  www.warbirdsix.com

[Ron Hill]

Steve :The eu 2000 doesn't have the problem, it's with the smaller eu1000 that can get overloaded!!

I still wouldn't recommend that anyone run the 1000 at the higher rpm for more than 30 minutes.  You've probably put about 12-15 amp hrs back into the batteries and the ECO mode (lower rpm) will  then probably be OK for charging.

I just wrote an article for the November Mainsheet tech notes on another solution for an overloaded Honda eu 1000. 

A thought

[stevewitt1]

I know that I'm not the coldest can in the sixpack, but typically I'm not the warmest either.   Just for my feeble mind; Why would one want to charge batteries with an eu1000 or 2000 for that verses the alternator on the "iron main?'  Is it hrs on the engine?  fuel consumption? (eu requires additional fuel storage.)  The charge rate should be less than even with the standard alternator (upgrade on my wish list, I think its #677 on the list) and the side benefit is hot water.  I know on my last boat I could not run both my 30amp DC charger (with batteries low) and my water heater at the same time with my eu2000.

Just wondering

Steve
[flash=200,200[font=Verdana]]I've spent most of my money on women, boats, and airplanes......the rest I've wasted!

visit us at: www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

[Ted Pounds]

I know that I'm not the coldest can in the sixpack, but typically I'm not the warmest either.   Just for my feeble mind; Why would one want to charge batteries with an eu1000 or 2000 for that verses the alternator on the "iron main?'  Is it hrs on the engine?  fuel consumption? (eu requires additional fuel storage.)  The charge rate should be less than even with the standard alternator (upgrade on my wish list, I think its #677 on the list) and the side benefit is hot water.  I know on my last boat I could not run both my 30amp DC charger (with batteries low) and my water heater at the same time with my eu2000.

Just wondering

Steve
[flash=200,200[font=Verdana]]I've spent most of my money on women, boats, and airplanes......the rest I've wasted!

visit us at: www.ocontoyachtclub.info and www.warbirdsix.com

All of the above plus noise; plus it gives you AC power.  However, like you mentioned, for hot water and charging the "iron main" may be the way to go.

[Ron Hill]

Steve : Let me answer your question with my question??

Which makes more sense : Charge with that $10,000 engine or the $800 engine?  The lower cost one is much quieter and has NO vibration throughout the boat!!

I don't believe that you have lived on a C34 attached to a mooring or at anchor for extended periods i.e. Months.

Your choice, your boat.

[prh77]

I agree with Ron...just a thought.

[stevewitt1]

Wow, haven't had my fingers slapped like that since Sister Theresa in 3rd grade.

I did mention " Is it hrs on the engine?" and I was simply wondering why.  I've given thought to carrying my 2000 on longer stays.  I will try to refrain from demonstrating my naivete in the future.
And you are right, I haven't spent extended time on a mooring.  Fortunately the $650/year(season) at my club keeps a dock in my budget.  Yes, I live and Boat on a budget too.
I will however check on prices for the engine around here.  I was hoping to be able to major my engine when the time comes (hopefully a long time down the road) and I can't imagine $10,000.  Wow, am I out of touch with the market.  The last engine I saw the bill on was my Allmand 31 for it's conversion to a M4-30 and that was just about $9,000 installed with the trans.  I believe at that time the engine/trans was around $6,500 in the crate.
I would expect the M25-XP to be able to be rebuilt.  A good friend of mine sold his engine machine business to become service manager at a Kabota Distributor.  I'll find out what I should expect when I face a major on this engine.  That's provided it doesn't throw a rod thru the block.
Steve