Packless sealing system emergency leak what to do?

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kerk fisher

I just had installed a P.Y.I. packless sealing system on our boat and before sailing I'd like ideas about what to do if it starts to leak (either slow or fast!) when we are out on the water?  Thanks, Kerk
Kerk Fisher
C34, Into the Mystic II
Hull #1102, 1990
Sailing the North Channel, Lake Huron
908 Wicksbury Place, Louisville, KY 40207
Louisville, KY 40205
502-454-7759
Alternate email: kerksailmystic@gmail.com

Les Luzar

Send an email or call the manufacturer.... They would be your best resource for this answer.
Les Luzar
#355    1987
Windshadow
Long Beach, CA

tonywright

Great question. Fortunately this hasn't happened to me yet...But the main potential source is the bellows: at either end, or by a rip or tear.

The manufacturer recommends replacing the bellows every 5 years or so. It is a good idea to do this preventive maintenance! (I did, a couple of years back).

That being said, a leak is most likely to come from a loose hose clamp. So I would just stop the engine and tighten up the clamps. If it still leaks, look for the rip or tear and wrap or tape something around the bellows to stop or slow the leak.

If all else fails, remember that the emergency exits are located over the rail at port, starboard and aft.

Keep floating

Tony

Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

Ron Hill

#3
Follow the advice given by the two previous owners and add mine:

Make sure that you know on your route, where the marinas are that have travel lifts!!

If the billows ruptures (for any reason) you'll need to get pulled !!
Ron, Apache #788

tonywright

Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

lazybone

My PYI packing gland started leaking this week after 20 years.  I (my son did it while I pointed and waived my arms around)loosened the set screws and compressed the bellows just a little more.  Leak fixed and a repair kit on the way which will be installed this winter on haulout.
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Fred Koehlmann

I've been thinking that a dripless box would be great, but that article does make me think twice. I've seen them at the boat show, but its true about how the sales pitch does make you forget about the maintenance and vulnerabilty of the unit. The recommendations at the bottom of the article are gold:
•   Inspect the bellows every six months or before spring commissioning.
•   Allow the bellows to relax whenever you haul the boat.
•   Place a safety hose clamp in front of the rotor on the prop shaft.
•   Carry a spare bellows.
•   Protect the bellows from accidental damage.
•   Remember that the water injection hose is really a through hull fitting with no seacock, and install it with that in mind.
•   Replace the bellows every six years, no matter what condition it's in. (keep the old one as your emergency spare)
•   Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Read them a second time.
Frederick Koehlmann: Dolphina - C425 #3, Midland, ON
PO: C34 #1602, M35BC engine

kerk fisher

These are great replies.  I really appreciate them.  If anyone additionally has had to fix a leak while underway, what have you done? Kerk
Kerk Fisher
C34, Into the Mystic II
Hull #1102, 1990
Sailing the North Channel, Lake Huron
908 Wicksbury Place, Louisville, KY 40207
Louisville, KY 40205
502-454-7759
Alternate email: kerksailmystic@gmail.com

Ron Hill

Guys : It's so simple to use the Gore Drippless packing, I'm not sure why someone wants to pay that much for a billows which by definition needs to be replace periodically and could have a catistrophic failure (for what ever the reason)??

The packing gland is almost flawless and as I have said many times if you get a severe leak/dripping - you can ever use a shoe lace to stuff in there and slow it down!!   A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Steve Sayian

Been using Gore Packing for the past 6 seasons.  Dry bilge, no issues!
Steve Sayian
"Ocean Rose"
1999 Mk II
Wing, Std Rig, Kiwi Prop
#1448, Hingham, Mass

Ken Juul

We should be careful when we discuss the Gore Packing.  There are 2 types marketed with the Gore name.  A green goop you add to the old flax.  It does not work well.  The good stuff is called "Gore GFO", it is a braided packing material.  I have always got mine on line, but I think West Marine now caries both.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Ralph Masters

Replacing the packing with the Gore GFO was the best thing I've done to the boat.  No water in the bilge, and no having to move EVERYTHING out of the aft cabin to get to the packing to adjust it once a month.
Even if you had a spare bellows, how are you going to replace it out on the pond??  You have to back the shaft out of the coupling to get it on.

Like Stu says, your boat, your choice.................

Ralph
Ralph Masters
Ciao Bella
San Diego
Hull 367, 1987

Steve Sayian

Good point Ken!

I used the 'green goop' and what a mess it made, and it didn't work well at all.

Switched to GFO the following year and have been very happy.

Just checked the WM site and they have "GTU Gore Shaft Packing'.  Looks exactly like what I have.

Steve Sayian
"Ocean Rose"
1999 Mk II
Wing, Std Rig, Kiwi Prop
#1448, Hingham, Mass

Stu Jackson

Thread drift from the OP, but Ultra X has been recommended by Maine Sail and I have installed it.  I also included it in the Tech wiki under my Stuffing Box article.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

scotty

I've also kept with the old style stuffing box because I think it's safer, but to the original question... 

It might be prudent to have a dedicated bag for sealing system repair.  It could include a roll of really good butyl tape.  My son works in HVAC and gives me a tape with a metalic backing and thick butyl adhesive. (Or some other type of tape??)  This tape could be a fix for a minor leak.  I might also include a pre-cut sheet of rubber, and some clamps, which could be wrapped around the bellows if it completely blew out.  This piece could be clamped, and then taped.  Just as we wire in plugs at our through-hole fittings, this kit could be mounted (safely) in the area of the shaft.

Your question is good because we should always have a plan for what to do when (not if) gear fails.  I don't know if my ideas would work, but you got me thinking.
Scotty