Alternator bracket upgrade question

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prh77

Helping a friend who has the old style bracket. Listed in the contents of the upgrade kit are new studs. Looking at his engine, I see that these new studs are to replace the ones that hold the exhaust manifold/coolant reservoir to the block. The existing studs will be too short when the plate from the kit is bolted to the manifold, the new longer studs are used as replacements. Has anyone done this kit upgrade recently. My concern is that removing these 25 year old studs might be a problem. I will use PB Blaster and heat, but I would like to hear from anyone that has taken on this project. I would hate hate snap one of them off. Thanks.
Peyton Harrison Hull # 597 1988 "Trinity"

Ken Juul

I have not removed the exhaust manifold or studs on the M25.  However they should be like most studs used on exhaust manifolds.  The only rusty parts will be those exposed to air/exhaust/water. The threads screwed into the block/head should be clean. If the nuts are rusted onto the studs, the stud may just unscrew with the nut attached.  If the nut breaks loose, then the stud should come out with when gripped with vicegrips or similiar.  It may take a bit of effort.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Stu Jackson

#2
I agree.  My studs were long enough when I did my bracket replacement in 1999, but when I did it for a friend with an M25 in his Ericson 32 they weren't.  When I did it on his boat it was before I had learned about PB Blaster, so I just removed them with vice grips.  Took a long time, but it worked.  So, if you soak the exposed end with PBB and let it work awhile, it should do just fine, maybe even without heat.

There is anecdotal information that when you remove them coolant will leak out.  Didn't happen on the Ericson.  Even if it does, it can't be very much, so just be ready with the new studs.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

prh77

The studs will have to be replaced due to length and I have loosened all the nuts. I know from experience that studs are often put in with Locktite Red making easy removal an issue.
Peyton Harrison Hull # 597 1988 "Trinity"

Stu Jackson

Locktite Red and 5200, as Maine Sail says: 

Satan's Glue
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

scotty

Do you have to be careful using PB Blaster to not get it on rubber parts?
Scotty

cmainprize

When I did the bracket on my old c30 the stud came right out, I was surprised.  I always double nut the studs to get them out.

Cory Mainnprize
Mystic
Hull # 1344
M35
Midland Ontario

Stu Jackson

Quote from: scotty on February 24, 2012, 08:55:46 PM
Do you have to be careful using PB Blaster to not get it on rubber parts?

Yes, absolutely.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Jim Hardesty

Just for FYI.  there are pro tools to remove studs.  If the double nut isn't working you may be able to rent from a auto parts store.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=635359&group_ID=675443&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

prh77

Thanks for all the info everone......one hell of a great site.
Peyton Harrison Hull # 597 1988 "Trinity"