GORE GFO Packing Material

Lance Jones · February 28, 2011, 12:52:12 PM

Been looking at the manual - very informative. However, what size wrench(s) will I need for removal and then adjustment? I know, I should know this -- but I don't. First time doing this and want to be ready from the start.

Ted Pounds · February 28, 2011, 01:54:00 PM

I just used some big channel-lock (some folks call them water pump pliers) pliers...

Stu Jackson · February 28, 2011, 03:38:24 PM

Ted makes a good point. I bought two wrenches way back when: a fixed one and adjustable one. The fixed one is a tad too big on the flat-to-flat of the locking nut, but still does a good job. The adjustable one is pretty "loosey goosey" but does the job. I leave them rolled up in a towel on the counter over the engine in the aft cabin.

If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use the channel lock pliers, I have two on board anyway.

If you want to buy tools for that particular use, simply measure the flat to flat dimensions of the lock nut and packing gland nut and enjoy your trip to the hardware store. Don't buy "marine" tools.

Ron Hill · February 28, 2011, 05:49:09 PM

Lance : If your packing gland has been dripping salt water and the packing not changed in a few years, you just might have some fun getting them (lock nut & packing nut) apart.

I would NOT recommend using a slip joint type pliers, as you can easily chew up those bronze nuts.
Go to a hardware store and get a plumbing wrench that will open to the packing nut size. Then get a fixed open end for the lock nut size. You're only talking under $20 and it's an investment well spent rather than chewing up those soft nuts with the wrong tool!! A thought

StephenK · February 28, 2011, 06:58:42 PM

Lance,

You could just come over to J dock and borrow my tools. I use a plumbing wrench on the packing nut and an adjustable vise grip on the locking nut. They work fine, in fact I just adjusted mine this past weekend.

Your not on salt water, but Ron brings up a good point about corrosion. I would recommend applying some PB blaster to the contact point the day before and let it work in.

Stephen Kruse

Stu Jackson · March 01, 2011, 10:08:06 AM

You might or might not need something to get the nuts apart at first.

To avoid this issue in the future, slather Lanocote on the threads and you'll not have any problems next time(s).

Ralph Masters · March 04, 2011, 06:58:49 AM

The easiest way to get the lock nut loose is to use a small hammer and a nail set to tap the lock nut with. It doesn't take much of a whack only three or four taps and it'll turn right off. I use plenty of WD40 and a bronze wire brush to clean it up before I tried to loosen it.

Ralph

Hawk · March 04, 2011, 07:03:59 PM

Thanks Stu and Ron,

Now I know why I never went into engineering. Of course I read and reread the manual under the packing gland section but I just went down to the boat to look for the diagram Stu pointed out........yep same one and it is 3/16 packing on my 1990.
I ordered Duramax Ultra suggested by Mainesail from Hamilton Marine...much cheaper than the Gore - hopefully as good as Maine says.
Now I just have to get the lock nut off which is definitely locked on...may need some heat.
Thanks.
Hawk

Hawk · May 02, 2011, 10:09:06 PM

The Duramax Ultra X went into the packing gland this weekend.

I had to unseize the lock nut with a couple weeks of hitting it with the PB Blaster spray. I was prepared to put a torch on the packing gland to heat it but first though I put two sizable wrenches on the lock and gland nuts and gave the lock nut wrench a touch of persuasion with a good crack using a 2 lb mini sledge...did the trick. I would not use a pipe wrench on the soft brass. The packing material came out using a couple dental type picks you can buy at the hardware store. Several have different angles with very sharp points, like hooking into a nice salmon. I did initially try the drywall screw but the picks did the job. The new material went in easy enough and now will slowly adjust the drip rate without overtightening.

I'll report later on how the Duramax does...I know Mainesail highly recomends it.

Hawk

Ron Hill · May 05, 2011, 07:01:01 PM

Guys : A couple of things:
1. 99% of the C34s use 3/16" packing, but there are a few that use 1/8" packing -- even thought the C34 owners manual says 3/16" You need to check your to be sure that Catalina factory actually used a 3/16" packing gland and not a 1/4" packing gland.
2. I made my own packing removal tool out of a coat hanger. Bent the end 90degrees and sharpened it. See early Mainsheet tech notes!!

Stu Jackson · May 05, 2011, 08:09:26 PM

Quote from: Ron Hill on May 05, 2011, 07:01:01 PM
the owners manual says 3/16" You need to check your to be sure.

I think Ron mean 3/16 or 1/4.

Hawk · May 05, 2011, 10:13:09 PM

The Duramax I used was 3/16 in my 1990 as per the manual.
Hawk

Ralph Masters · May 06, 2011, 08:05:48 AM

When doing repacking on your shaft packing gland, if it is tight and won't come off with the twist of two wrenches holding in oppisite directions, spray your favorite spray on it, let it sit a while then use a nail set and small ball peen to tap on the locking nut to undo it. Remember, the locking nut turns toward the back of the shaft, away from the engine.
Please don't try to apply heat, we would really hate to read about a boat fire in these pages.

Ralph
Ciao Bella

PS - a nail set looks like a center punch, only has a flat face vice a point on the end.