What is the best online source to purchase GORE GFO packing material? I contacted the mfg and they gave me the name of a retailer here in WA State but they were not helpful when I contacted them.
Thanks, Kirk
Hi,
Here is the link.
http://www.emarineinc.com/categories/Packing%252dShaft/
Kirk,
got mine at West Marine $15.99 WM#8224651 Thats 1/4" I'm not sure if all 34s take the same size.
Jim
You might want to do a little research on this stuff on the site. Mainsail, who has many posts and seems to know his stuff, was not impressed. My opinion; go with the conventional material, learn to adjust your stuffing box, and live with a little water in the bilge.
I think most people on this site who have used the Gore packing are very happy with it. I know I was. :thumb:
I agree, I'm happy with Gore GFO and would not go back to the old conventional material!!!
Quote from: prh77 on February 07, 2011, 05:03:38 PM
You might want to do a little research on this stuff on the site. Mainsail, who has many posts and seems to know his stuff, was not impressed. My opinion; go with the conventional material, learn to adjust your stuffing box, and live with a little water in the bilge.
Make sure you're not confusing the Gore packing with the moldable packing.
Many have expressed their dislike with it.
Summary of Issues
1. MS has seen evidence of the black gore material spew all over from the gland. Many others have not. I haven't used it.
2. I bought the $60 green goop 13 years ago and still have some left. Most said it wasn't good and cost too much. Compared to individual purchases of the gore, which had just been invented when I bought my goop, I've come out even or a little ahead.
3. Be careful of the size. Some have reported 1/4", most of us use 3/16". You can measure your shaft and gland.
Quote from: prh77 on February 07, 2011, 05:03:38 PM
You might want to do a little research on this stuff on the site. Mainsail, who has many posts and seems to know his stuff, was not impressed. My opinion; go with the conventional material, learn to adjust your stuffing box, and live with a little water in the bilge.
I am VERY impressed with both Gore GFO and Johnson Duramax Ultra-X. What I am not impressed with is the knock off product made by Western Pacific Trading and sold by West Marine.
Duramax Ultra-X is what I now use 90% of the time. Hamilton Marine sells it for next to nothing...
Quote from: Stu Jackson on February 07, 2011, 07:48:16 PM
Summary of Issues
1. MS has seen evidence of the black gore material spew all over from the gland. Many others have not. I haven't used it.
Absolutely not. I have seen the SynTef packing clay do that but NOT GFO or Ultra-X. I do not like the SynTef packing clay & lube and I could elaborate at length about why it is a bad idea but won't waste your band width.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on February 07, 2011, 07:48:16 PM2. I bought the $60 green goop 13 years ago and still have some left. Most said it wasn't good and cost too much. Compared to individual purchases of the gore, which had just been invented when I bought my goop, I've come out even or a little ahead.
That is exactly the stuff I don't like. But Gore GFO or Duramax Ultra-X are amazing packings.
I know this may sound silly; but, does the boat need to be out to change the packing gland? Or, would Ron's(I think it was Ron) method of covering in plastic bags, work?
Quote from: Lance Jones on February 08, 2011, 07:28:46 AM
I know this may sound silly; but, does the boat need to be out to change the packing gland? Or, would Ron's(I think it was Ron) method of covering in plastic bags, work?
You can easily do it in the water but I would advise having done it at least once before on the hard so you know what to expect. I just wrap it in self amalgamating rigging tape if I hit a snag and need more time.
Quote from: Lance Jones on February 08, 2011, 07:28:46 AM
I know this may sound silly; but, does the boat need to be out to change the packing gland? Or, would Ron's(I think it was Ron) method of covering in plastic bags, work?
Lance,
Are you talking about replacing the whole packing gland or just the packing material? If doing the whole packing gland assembly, I'm pretty sure you would have to pull the boat out.
Maine Sail, thanks for the correction.
Stuffing Box tech wiki, also has a link to Maine Sail's excellent writeup: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing (http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing)
I've always done my repacking in the water. Never bothered with covering the stern tube. Boat's still afloat. :D
Yes, just the packing material. Can anyone tell me which size I need for my '88 SN 622?
Quote from: Lance Jones on February 08, 2011, 11:29:31 AM
Yes, just the packing material. Can anyone tell me which size I need for my '88 SN 622?
Lance, if you do not want to measure what you need, then buy BOTH 1/4 and 3/16, figure out what works and return the unused material.
Stu,
Are you sure you're not Scottish? :D
My 88 has what appears to be 1/4" when I lay the old stuff out but Stu says most use 3/16" so I am going to go down in the morning for an actual measurement in the gland before I pull the trigger.
THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR SOUND ADVISE!
Kirk
I will likely order both sizes but for interests sake emarine says 1/4" for a 1 inch shaft as per below:
Available sizes - 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" - accommodate most power and sail boats. Other sizes available on special order.
Buck Algonquin Bronze Packing Boxes are usually the following sizes and take the following packing size:
Shaft Size
3/4"-----
7/8"-----
1"-------
1-1/8"---
1-1/4"---
1-3/8"---
1-1/2"---
1-3/4"---
2"------- Packing Size
3/8"
5/16"
1/4"
3/16"
1/4"
5/16"
1/4"
1/2"
3/8"
You guys are spending more than you need to.
Hamilton Marine sells Duramax Ultra-X for 1.68 ft in 3/16" http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/packing-ultra-x-3-16-sold-by-inch-or-box-420-176152-/4,34591,333.html (http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/packing-ultra-x-3-16-sold-by-inch-or-box-420-176152-/4,34591,333.html)
And in 1/4" for $3.00 per ft http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/packing-ultra-x-3-16-sold-by-inch-or-box-420-176152-/4,34591,333.html (http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/packing-ultra-x-3-16-sold-by-inch-or-box-420-176152-/4,34591,333.html)
Gore GFO from eMarine is $9.63 per foot in 1/4"...
For a reference point, last spring I did a total packing gland rebuild, new hose, clamps and thorough cleaning. I had repacked with Gore GFO about 9 years ago. When I disassembled, I was totally surprised to find that I had barely worn away about half of the first ring of packing, shaft was smooth and not worn. I average 60-75 hours motoring a season. The Gore GFO works and really helps keep the bilge dry....If the Duramax Ultra-X works just as well, go with it for much less $$
In my 1987 I used the 3/16" Gore GFO. Has been working great for three years.
How often do other Gore users adjust or replace?
I generally adjust about 2 twice a year. I could probably make it tighter and get away with once every season , but I am still running a bronze shaft, don't want to tighten too much for fear of wearing a groove in the shaft.
Ken,
Yours is a 1990 I believe. do you recall whether you used 3/16 or 1/4 Gore GFO?
Thanks
Hawk
Lance & Guys : If you will look in your OWNERS MANUAL, I believe that it will tell you that packing is 3/16".
Once again Catalina may have put in a 1/4" gland, but 99% of their production was with a 1 inch shaft that has a 3/16" packing gland nut!!
Lance : I've changed my packing in the water and many others have used my method and none of those C34s /C36s have sunk.
Once again an airline ticket and per diem and I'll be more than happy to HELP !! :clap
We use 3/16 inch on our 1990 and check and adjust once per year (we use the boat for 3 months every summer) and store on the hard the rest of the year. We have a SS shaft and keep the gland slightly above finger tight with no scoring. Great stuff and no "burping" worries. Hope this helps.
Thanks Steve. And Ron I reviewed my manual more than once searching for the spec. It is not under the "Packing Gland" section nor any other that I can see. If it's in your manual, let me know under which heading :thumb:
Hawk
Quote from: Hawk on February 24, 2011, 01:22:48 PM
...I reviewed my manual more than once searching for the spec. It is not under the "Packing Gland" section nor any other that I can see. If it's in your manual, let me know under which heading.
Page 40 of 66, in the PDF Mark I Owner's Manual, Manuals from the main C34 tech wiki page
http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf (http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf)
The drawing of the stuffing box (packing gland) is quite good and shows 3/16" x 3/16". Even with the FAQ about packing glands, I was able to understand how it all worked from this "cutaway" diagram. "Aha, so
that's how it works!?!" Much easier, at least for me, to see the drawing rather than a long paragraph. This is what prompted me to write the old FAQ, now a wiki, on the subject, which has also added a link to Maine Sail's great photo essay, and noted the article was written before e-marine came out with the gore, and the other materials Maine Sail noted earlier in this topic. The 3/16" is mentioned in that, as well as 1/4".
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing (http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing)
Your boat, your choice. Measure once, then write it down. I've been working on only my second round of stuffing material in almost 14 years. :D
My 2006 MK11 uses 1/4" packing. The manual states what year they went to 1/4", but I don't have the date handy. We installed the Gore packing 1.5 years ago and are very happy, we now have a dry bilge. Adjusted once since installation
Guys : For MK I the packing gland info is on page 39 or diagram 4.4.2.
Been looking at the manual - very informative. However, what size wrench(s) will I need for removal and then adjustment? I know, I should know this -- but I don't. First time doing this and want to be ready from the start.
I just used some big channel-lock (some folks call them water pump pliers) pliers...
Ted makes a good point. I bought two wrenches way back when: a fixed one and adjustable one. The fixed one is a tad too big on the flat-to-flat of the locking nut, but still does a good job. The adjustable one is pretty "loosey goosey" but does the job. I leave them rolled up in a towel on the counter over the engine in the aft cabin.
If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use the channel lock pliers, I have two on board anyway.
If you want to buy tools for that particular use, simply measure the flat to flat dimensions of the lock nut and packing gland nut and enjoy your trip to the hardware store. Don't buy "marine" tools.
Lance : If your packing gland has been dripping salt water and the packing not changed in a few years, you just might have some fun getting them (lock nut & packing nut) apart.
I would NOT recommend using a slip joint type pliers, as you can easily chew up those bronze nuts.
Go to a hardware store and get a plumbing wrench that will open to the packing nut size. Then get a fixed open end for the lock nut size. You're only talking under $20 and it's an investment well spent rather than chewing up those soft nuts with the wrong tool!! A thought
Lance,
You could just come over to J dock and borrow my tools. I use a plumbing wrench on the packing nut and an adjustable vise grip on the locking nut. They work fine, in fact I just adjusted mine this past weekend.
Your not on salt water, but Ron brings up a good point about corrosion. I would recommend applying some PB blaster to the contact point the day before and let it work in.
Stephen Kruse
You might or might not need something to get the nuts apart at first.
To avoid this issue in the future, slather Lanocote on the threads and you'll not have any problems next time(s).
The easiest way to get the lock nut loose is to use a small hammer and a nail set to tap the lock nut with. It doesn't take much of a whack only three or four taps and it'll turn right off. I use plenty of WD40 and a bronze wire brush to clean it up before I tried to loosen it.
Ralph
Thanks Stu and Ron,
Now I know why I never went into engineering. Of course I read and reread the manual under the packing gland section but I just went down to the boat to look for the diagram Stu pointed out........yep same one and it is 3/16 packing on my 1990.
I ordered Duramax Ultra suggested by Mainesail from Hamilton Marine...much cheaper than the Gore - hopefully as good as Maine says.
Now I just have to get the lock nut off which is definitely locked on...may need some heat.
Thanks.
Hawk
The Duramax Ultra X went into the packing gland this weekend.
I had to unseize the lock nut with a couple weeks of hitting it with the PB Blaster spray. I was prepared to put a torch on the packing gland to heat it but first though I put two sizable wrenches on the lock and gland nuts and gave the lock nut wrench a touch of persuasion with a good crack using a 2 lb mini sledge...did the trick. I would not use a pipe wrench on the soft brass. The packing material came out using a couple dental type picks you can buy at the hardware store. Several have different angles with very sharp points, like hooking into a nice salmon. I did initially try the drywall screw but the picks did the job. The new material went in easy enough and now will slowly adjust the drip rate without overtightening.
I'll report later on how the Duramax does...I know Mainesail highly recomends it.
Hawk
Guys : A couple of things:
1. 99% of the C34s use 3/16" packing, but there are a few that use 1/8" packing -- even thought the C34 owners manual says 3/16" You need to check your to be sure that Catalina factory actually used a 3/16" packing gland and not a 1/4" packing gland.
2. I made my own packing removal tool out of a coat hanger. Bent the end 90degrees and sharpened it. See early Mainsheet tech notes!!
Quote from: Ron Hill on May 05, 2011, 07:01:01 PM
the owners manual says 3/16" You need to check your to be sure.
I think Ron mean 3/16 or 1/4.
The Duramax I used was 3/16 in my 1990 as per the manual.
Hawk
When doing repacking on your shaft packing gland, if it is tight and won't come off with the twist of two wrenches holding in oppisite directions, spray your favorite spray on it, let it sit a while then use a nail set and small ball peen to tap on the locking nut to undo it. Remember, the locking nut turns toward the back of the shaft, away from the engine.
Please don't try to apply heat, we would really hate to read about a boat fire in these pages.
Ralph
Ciao Bella
PS - a nail set looks like a center punch, only has a flat face vice a point on the end.