Ideas rigging continuous line furling lines?

[gwp]

First one I've used and it works very well even when reefing. But....the problem is keeping the line on the discharging side taut while furling or unfurling. Otherwise it dumps it all in a pile and usually then overboard.  May sound confusing but I'm sure anyone who's used one understands. Probably several options to remedy but before I start mounting hardware I want to solicit ideas. Thx

[Ken Juul]

I am confused about what you are asking.  The continuous line furler is one long loop of rope.  As you furl or unfurl, pulling on one side of the loop pulls the other side forward toward the furling drum.  There should be no pile of rope.

On the single line furler.  When the sail is furled, most of the furling line is in the cockpit.  As the sail is unfurled, the furling line leaves the cockpit and wraps around the furling drum.

From your question, I think you have a single line furler not a continuous line furler. 

Most folks route the furling line through a series of guides mounted on the stanchions so the sail can be furled from near the helm.  If you do that the "discharge line" should pile up on the cockpit floor and not go overboard.  Once you have the sail furled (full or partial) the line should be cleated.  The cleat is usually placed on the cockpit coaming (top or outboard side) and the extra line coiled or tied off out of the way.  I've seen some folks use velcro rope ties to attach the coiled rope to either the furling cleat or one of the vertical stern pulpit legs.  The bottom end of the coils should remain in the cockpit, not the side deck.  An alternative routing  is from the furling drum over the cabin top and cleated near the halyards on the cabin top.  I personally don't like this method because it adds a tripping hazard on the foredeck.

[gwp]

I doing bad job explaining. I've used single line furlers for many years. Having two lines coming out of a cont line furler, both lines must be held taut otherwise the line you are not pulling gets fouled either at the furler or at the aftmost block. It usually fouls when the wind is allowed to unfurl the sail. I have stantion mounted double blocks leading to cockpit but no means of holding both lines taut. The furler line "loop" is loose and flailing away in the cockpit.

[Ken Juul]

I guess I have a lot of friction in my set up.  Even when it is blowing I have to manually unroll the sail.  I regularly clean the lower bearings, think they are just getting old and tired.  There will always be slack in the unpulled line. If it is fouling at the furling drum, check and make sure that the last stanchion mounted guide is aligned correctly.  Fouling at the first block out of the cockpit, perhaps stand farther away from the block so there is less slack between the pulling line and the feeding line.  Or if you have a second set of hands, ask them to provide some "drag" on the feed line to lessen the slack.  I think it would make the system too cumbersome, but you could mount a pair of rope clutches pointed in opposite directions.  Open the clutch on the line you are pulling, the friction provided by the closed clutch on the other line should keep the slack at a minimum.

[Ron Hill]

gwp : A friend mounted a small winch head (face winch) on a piece of 1" track on the deck.  Then he shortened the continuous line so it would be taunt when the winch head was moved to the rear and secured.  He put a small winch handle in the winch head and cranked out the amount of head sail he wanted and the winch held it !

He did that modification for just the reasons you mention.  A thought

[lazybone]

I guess I have a lot of friction in my set up.  Even when it is blowing I have to manually unroll the sail.  I regularly clean the lower bearings, think they are just getting old and tired.  There will always be slack in the unpulled line. If it is fouling at the furling drum, check and make sure that the last stanchion mounted guide is aligned correctly.  Fouling at the first block out of the cockpit, perhaps stand farther away from the block so there is less slack between the pulling line and the feeding line.  Or if you have a second set of hands, ask them to provide some "drag" on the feed line to lessen the slack.  I think it would make the system too cumbersome, but you could mount a pair of rope clutches pointed in opposite directions.  Open the clutch on the line you are pulling, the friction provided by the closed clutch on the other line should keep the slack at a minimum.

Had a similiar hard turning condition and discovered the upper drum had slid down onto the lower drum causing alot of friction.  the cinch bolt on the upper drum needs to be loosened and pulled up slightly. Mine ran like new after the adjustment.

[Ken Juul]

LB,
I don't have a really good picture of the furler drum.  Are you saying that I should loosen the bolt under #17 and slide it up #16 slightly then retighten?

[lazybone]

Sorry Ken, your right #17 slides up and down on #16 changes the clearence between the two halves.

[lazybone]

First one I've used and it works very well even when reefing. But....the problem is keeping the line on the discharging side taut while furling or unfurling. Otherwise it dumps it all in a pile and usually then overboard.  May sound confusing but I'm sure anyone who's used one understands. Probably several options to remedy but before I start mounting hardware I want to solicit ideas. Thx

I've never seen the need but I have a friend with a 915 ContLine who has a ratcheting block tied off with a length of bungy cord.  It holds the continuous line semi taught and at the same time the ratchet keeps the line from slipping.
Does that make any sense?

[gwp]

Actually that makes lots of sense. Never thought of shock cord. Thx