Another stanchion rebedding question

[cwbrownjr101]

I'm in the process of rebedding the port vented stanchion because -- surprise --  it leaks.  The PO's solution seems to have been to stuff the sliding cabinet above the nav station with rags to absorb the moisture.  I've read the FAQ's and previous posts on the topic, and I thought I had a pretty good idea of what I was facing before I removed the stanchion -- but when I removed it I noticed that one of the holes in the base of the stanchion (forward, inboard) had a lot of rust and pitting around it, and the screw that was in that hole also had a lot of rust and pitting. In fact, the thread had pretty much disappeared in some places.

My question is, if I clean off the rust from the stanchion base and clean out the pitting, and get new screws and clean out and redrill the deck holes and rebed the stanchion correctly, will it not leak, or does the pitting around this hole mean I need to replace the stanchion if I want the leak to stop?

Thanks!

-Charlie Brown
1988 #888

[Jon Schneider]

That sort of depends on how well you do the job and how decayed the throat of the stanchion vent is.  You really have two options: 1) go ahead and clean up the OEM arrangement, and, if it's decayed beyond repair, order a new stanchion; or 2) decide ahead of time that you're going to route the vent aft to the transom, and then completely plug and re-bed the stanchion.  That's what I'm planning on doing, just to move the aroma aft. 

[Stu Jackson]

Charlie,

The very reason they rusted out (or pitted) was because there was water getting in there.  You have the right information about re-bedding.  Once, done right, with new screws, the bedding will keep out the water and avoid the regrowth of rust.  That's the whole purpose of re-bedding, right?

Make sure the deck core is dry, and you may want to consider epoxying the holes and re-drilling to prevent any further deck deterioration, if you deem it necessary.

Added:  If you check the original question, the issue was the holes "in the base of the stanchion" and not the stanchion or the protusion through the deck to which the hose(s) connect.

[BillG]

I don't see how a little pitting will allow water to leak in, IF you bed the stanchion correctly.  When I redid my vented stanchions, I had stainless steel backing plates made up to add a little strength.  Those particular stanchions seem to take alot of abuse.

[Ron Hill]

Charlie : As Jon said, it depends on how pitted the stanchion is (strength wise)!  I asked Garhauer marine and they made me up backing plates for both starboard AND port vented stanchons.  I favour polysulfide as it does a better job of adhering to stainless than some of the others (it also takes longer to setup).  Good luck.   

[Ted Pounds]

I made my own backing plates from aluminum bar stock. It's easy to do and well worth the effort.  It makes the stanchions much stiffer and less likely break the bedding seal.  If you have the time I recommend re-bedding and putting backing plates on all the stanchions.  But definitely do the ones with the vents in them.  You should look at the starboard vent stanchion as that has caused problems on other C34's.

[Stu Jackson]

Teds' right, because people tend to forget that the starboard vent stanchion is right over the galley 120 V outlet!!!   

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Garhauer made mine out of stainless and the price was RIGHT!!  A thought.

[cwbrownjr101]

Thanks all!  Great advice.  I'll let you know how it goes. -Charlie

[prh77]

I made gaskets out of .125 neoprene and rebedded with Boatlife,so far so good.