Spare Voltage Regulators

[Ray & Sandy Erps]

Greetings,

A couple of weeks ago I did a boo-boo and damaged my charging system.  I thought it was probably the alternator and took it off to be tested.  It was fine.  As I mentioned in a previous post, several of these high capacity alternators are based on a souped up Delco 10-DN alternator used on GM cars in the 60's and 70's and that repair parts are available on the internet.

Well, after reinstalling my alternator and doing further checking, I think I determined my fancy voltage regulator has a short in it.  Mine is like several other smart three stage regulators out there that cost an arm and a leg.  Since it was the weekend and we wanted to go boating again, I ran down to NAPA and picked up one of their $15 external regulators typical on cars back in the 60's and 70's.  I mounted it right next to my fancy regulator and the wires pretty much swapped over wire for wire.  I started it up and everything worked fine.  Now I have a functional back up regulator that will get us by while the other one is sent back to the shop to be fixed.  Once it's fixed, I'll switch the wires back to the gold plated regulator and leave the $15 one mounted up in case I do the boo-boo again.  Just thought I would share that in case you're the type of person who can learn from other's mistakes.  (I wish I was one of those, I have to make them myself before the learnin' sticks).

[wind dancer]

Another option for folks to consider when they are upgrading their alternators, is the Balmar 6-series alternator that includes an internal regulator that can be used in the event the external regulator fails.  I also carry my stock Motorola alternator as a spare, but that's probably overkill.

[Ron Hill]

Ray : What you say is true! 
Back in 1991/92 the instructions with my Balmar alternator and regulator was to get a Ford truck voltage regulator as a backup.  It also had the 3 pin same type connector.  Never had to use it, but still have it on board!!   

[Footloose]

Ray,

Do you think the regulator malfunctioning was the result of your "electrical misadventure" or an internal fault?  I have been under the impression that these smart regulators, although expensive, are reliable if treated with TLC.  Ron's post seems to back this up.  I have mine mounted under head sink.  It is cooler there, less vibration, and away from engine spills. 

What has been the experience of others?

[Ray & Sandy Erps]

I'm certain the regulator malfunction was my fault.  Doh!

[Ron Hill]

Ray : When I got my BRS regulator from Balmar I noted that it was mounted in a heat sink (had cooling fins).  That's why I mounted mine around the corner (from the hot engine compartment) as low as possible in the head sink compartment (to keep it as cool ). 
A few years later I upgraded to an ARSIII and kept it in the same place.  A few posts ago (topic - Hump Hose) you can see mine mounted low on the head sink wall.  I also took a "Rubber Made" box from home and made a "hood" so nothing could drip (ie. fuel filter change?) drip on it!  A thought.   

[Stu Jackson]

That picture can be found here: http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-single-hump-hose.html

[John Langford]

Hi Ray et al,
Very useful thread. I have asked at auto parts stores about external regulators for my Prestolite Leece-Neville 105 amp alternator and got nothing but blank stares. Do you have any idea whether the regulator you bought would work for the Leece-Neville?

[Stu Jackson]

John, does your regulator look like this?  If so, it appears that the automotive regulator mentioned previously is the plug-in type which wouldn't seem to apply.  That's probably why you got the blank stares.  Perhaps using the C36 Article that Rodd wrote that includes his connection to the Leece Neville guys he used in Maine would help, they might be able to provide you with some assistance.

[John Langford]

Thanks Stu. I got in touch with Rodd and he has been very helpful. I still need to have a chat with a knowledgable Leece-Neville dealer but I am getting closer.