"going" for less

[sdaly66]

Anyone?

Decided to replace the head.  Searched the "head mistress" and now know HOW to do it, but wanted advice from anyone who might be "in the know".

I've narrowed it down to the Wilcox Head Mate and Jabsco Compact - both manual heads and both at WM for $149.00.

Any opninions or preferences?

[Larry Robertie]

I had installed the WC on my old boat.  Just a couple of things that I would improve on it: 

• The hand pump has a packing gland that, at least on mine, tended to squirt water.  It was just sea water but in the context... the Admiral found it a bit gross
• The seat top broke off of the bowl with not all that much force.  I was doing some repairs in the head and had the top down.  This was on a 27 so space was tight and I was sitting.  I twisted the wrong way and, snap!

Otherwise, it was easy to instrall and, well, use...

[Ken Juul]

Last year WM sold the Jabsco on sale for $99.  Not sure with their financial problems if they will do it again this year.  If you can wait, might save you some $$.  I replaced my Jabsco with a Jabsco last year.

One of the easiest jobs I have done on the boat.  4 lag screws, came out easily.  I think there are 4 hose clamps.  Old one out, new one installed in about 15 minutes.  If you stay with the brand you currently have chances are the mounting holes will be in the same place.

The phrase "you get what you pay for" is very applicable here, it is a cheap unit.  Works, but not sure for how long.  Definitely a throw it away when it breaks.  Next time I have to replace it I think I will go with the Raritan II.  Heard nothing but good things about it.

[Mark Wey]

When you replace the head. It is a great time to replace the black water hose to the holding tank. Also check the fresh water intake hoses at the point of clamping by the gear clamps. If there is any fracture of the hose at all. Replace it. I replaced the black water hose in about an hour. Use the newer type white hose that has a smooth wall inside. It made a big difference when we open the boat up after a week of peculating in the hot summer sun.

Mark

[Stu Jackson]

Shawn, it's a long thread, but answers your question: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1621.0

[Rick Johnson]

I thought Peggy suggested the Raritan II?

[Stu Jackson]

She did and still does.  My point was that if you don't want to change your hoses, AND if you want to avoid the Jabsco ("junk"), then the WC Head Mate is a good middle of the road choice.

[Mike Vaccaro]

We installed a PH II  in our '88 a couple of years ago--bit expensive and some work involved, especially if you choose to replace all of the hose; but definitely worth it.  The head is outstanding, and the hose has eliminated odor down below. 

Here's a copy of the original post:

Just completed the replacement of the original Groco head with a Raritan PHII.  Also replaced all of the original sanitation hose and valves.  Overall, everything was pretty straight forward.  We used SeaLand OdorSafe hose.  A total of 20' was required for our 1988 boat, although we probably wasted 4 feet or so through fitting errors.  At about 8 dollars per foot, definitely worth measuring twice, cutting once, but our initial estimate was gracious to ensure that we didn't run out, since the hose is a special order item.

A thorough flush of the system with fresh water was performed, and a bit of bleach was pumped into the tubing (didn't want any in the holding tank itself).  Bottom line, can't do this job without a few whiffs of, well, something I'd just as soon not whiff.  Also made up some bleach/water mixture in a spray bottle to spray on fittings, hose, etc while working. 

Not all Catalina 34s are plumbed the same way, so our only recommendation is to start at the deck discharge, and work your way to the head.  We replaced the short 1 1/2" connection between the tank and the macerator pump, but didn't replace the 1" line from the macerator to the discharge seacock.  I'd recommend replacing the vent line at the same time the main discharge line is replaced, since you'll have access to both.  Catalina ran a single 3/4" ID tube to the vent stanchion, but the installation is not possible without kinking the hose.  We fitted a nylon elbow to keep the line properly open.  Keep in mind that it's recommended that 90 degree bends be avoided in vent lines, but I chose to replicate the original installation.  The elbow is fitted immediately below the stanchion.  From this point on, there is sufficient room to bend the tube without kinking.

The odor safe tube is easily cut with a hacksaw for a square edge.  I actually used a 4" belt sander to finish the edge.  Certainly not necessary, but not all that much extra effort.  When fitting the hose, a heat gun is very helpful.  Ensure that the hose is warm and flexible, but not too hot (it can become brittle with overheating).  When the hose is warm, it will slip over the fittings.  Smooth fittings usually don't require heating, but demand a second hose clamp.  Molded nipple fittings require heating, and once the hose is on, it's not comming off without the aid of a knife--so don't forget the hose clamps!

Y-valves are one of the most common problems in any system, so I wouldn't hesitate to replace an old valve if it's the least bit worn or suspect.  Unfortunately, these valves aren't cheap!

Use caution around the seacocks.  Fitting the hose can put a considerable amount of force on the fittings and valves.  I managed to crack the nylon thru-hull under the direct discharge seacock.  This bought me an unplanned trip to the slings, and a new bronze through hull and sealant.  I added a 1/2 plywood backing plate to the inside of the hull for added strength. 

I left the last segment of line off that connects my anti-syphon valve to the head.  When fitting the head, there isn't much room on the platform for the footprint of the PHII, but it's doable if you're careful.  I had to re-bore the hole through the bulkhead with a 1 7/8" hole saw.  This hole was bored at the same angle the hose passes through the bulkhead.  To accomplish this, a small pilot hole was drilled, and then I stuck a long drill bit through the hole to check the angle.  This angle isn't necessary, but simplifies the hose connection at the head, since there isn't any bend induced in the hose.  The same effect could be achieved by overboring the hole, but then you'd end up with a larger than necessary hole through a structural bulkhead.  I covered the old hole with a small vent cover--this is purely cosmetic since I filled the hole with epoxy and a compatable plug.  Didn't feel like trying to blend the repair with the formica on the head side of the bulkhead. 

The PHII has six possible lag bolt mounts.  You don't need six bolts hold the head in place!  I filled and faired the old holes with epoxy.    Four is sufficient, but you'll have to be very careful drilling and sizing the bolts, since the hull liner is very close the the hull.  I used a drill-stop to ensure that I didn't accidentally drill into the hull, and then inserted a long bit to measure the depth underneath the liner to the hull.  Due to the footprint of the PHII, I was able to mount lag bolts in all three front positions and the aft position below the pump handle.  There wasn't sufficient clearance for the two aft bolts under the bowl. 

The PHII has a cosmetic fairing over the base.  This isn't required, but if you do fit it, you'll have to cut the back portion to fair with the liner behind the head platform.  The easiest way to fair the ABS plastic is with a 4" belt sander, then finish the edge with fine sandpaper or file.

The PH II water inlet is on the front of the pump section--most heads have this fitting on the back.  A 90-degree nylon elbow is required to avoid kinking the hose at this point (3/4" ID).  I used solid white hose to match that installed on the head.  Any reinforced tubing will work, but the white looks the neatest.

Since our boat has three seacocks under the sink, I re-arranged some of the plumbing to ease head maintenance.  The factory routed the shower sump to the raw water inlet for the head and the drain from the sink had it's own seacock.  I swapped the sump to the former drain seacock and ran the sink drain to the head inlet.  Now I can flush the head with fresh water just by filling the sink (I need to insert the sink stopper if I want to use seawater to flush).  Also allows us to do a quick vinegar soak with minimal effort. 

My family really likes the simple operation of the new head, and we seemed to have licked the boat smell problem.  Regardless of the tack you take, I'd recommend shelling out for the best hose you can get your hands on and look for savings elsewhere!

Definitely the *&%F#est job yet!

Cheers,

Mike