Problem Installing S1 Raymarine Autohelm on 1999 MkII

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jimconnelly

I just purchased and tried to have a raymarine s1 autohelm installed, but I was told the wheel drive unit would not fit on my boat because of the engine display box. Has anyone experienced this problem? The boat is a Catalina 34 mkII, 1999.

Rocco

Jim,

I updated the ST4000 plus autopilot on my 97 MKII last year with the 2nd generation drive unit; the same drive unit on the S1 (I believe).  The issue in my case was the drive engagement lever which wraps around the drive motor when engaged.  When the drive motor is in the optimal 4 o'clock position, the lever cannot be moved into the disengaged position because it hits up against the engine display box.  The other issue is the larger circumference of the newer drive unit.  The pedestal bracket post is offset verticaly so it can be installed slightly higher of the mounting screw centerline or slightly lower; to be comptabile with the old bracket mounting holes, it must be installed in the lower positon which again hit the engine display box (only 1/4 - 3/8" clearance would have made the difference).
My solution was to lower my engine display box by 1/2"; this wasn't all that difficult.  Cleaning and reapplying the old sealant along the top of the box and the pedestal properly was the most time consuming part of the job.  I moved the drive motor into the alternate 10 o'clock position (there are two slots for the pededstal bracket post on the back of the drive unit).  This meant I had to re-route the drive unit cable to the other side of my pedestal, but again it was a straight forward job.  The issue with the 10 o'clock position is that it may interfere with the pedestal compass.  I had concerns about this and called raymarine to discuss the option of cutting a new slot in the drive unit so it could be mounted in the 8 0'clock position (so it's low on the pedestal as in the 4 o'clock preferred setup just on the left side rather than the right).  The Raymarine tech support person told me there was no problem cutting the new slot as long as it was done carefully and properly.  You'll notice that the edge of the existing two factory slots are slightly reinforced with a molded in rim around the slot; I asked about this and they said it shouldn't be an issue (I'd suggest another phone call just to be sure); it could always be reenforced with a small aluminum plate (this was my backup plan if I went with the new slot option).
I debated both the 10 o' clock and 8 o'clock positions for a while, carefully looking for compass deflection, but I determined the 10 o'clock position did not affect my compass and that's what I went with in the end.  I have a lewmar folding wheel which (because it's dished) moved the drive unit out slightly versus the original wheel, but I don't beleive it makes that much of a difference.
The S1 is much more advanced than the 4000 so this may not be relevant, but I programmed my 4000 with what Raymarine calls the "Catalina cocktail"  Rudder Gain = 2, Response = 2, Autotrim = 2, and Drivetype = 2; this made a big difference in how the autohelm handled; no more overcorrecting.

One other tip for folks that may have the 4000.  If you upgrade your instruments to the ST60 plus as I did last year, you can't get the 4000 into the factory setup mode ( I called Raymarine about this and we came to the conclusion that it was a bug).  The solution is to unplug the SeaTalk cable form the autopilot head unit while programming and then just plug it back in when your done.

Regards,
Rocco

jimconnelly

Rocco,

Really appreciate the tips, and I thought that may be the resolve.  I have to go back out to the boat and measure, but the installer thought the engine display unit would have to be lowered by 2 inches?  That seemed like a lot, and if that's the case with the new drive unit it may be a real problem.  I have the original wheel from the boat and the gap is very close to the engine control unit.  One of the other ideas they were looking into was a way to bring the wheel out an inch or so but not sure if that's really an option.  I also noticed on the newer catalinas the engine display box is smaller and angles in at the top allowing more room from the center of the wheel.  I also throught about looking into the housing and seeing if my displays fit into the openings.

The first and best option would be what you did and just lower the display unit.  Just hope it buys me enough room. 

Thanks again!

jim

Wayne

My MKII came from the factory with the autopilot motor installed at the 10:00 position--for what its worth.
2006 MKII Hull # 1762
San Francisco, Ca

rirvine


I had the same issues when I upgraded to an ST4000.   Rather than move the engine display down, I made an adaptor piece out of CPG Seaboardâ„¢ to allow the inner wheel drive ring to mate with the existing pin on the pedestal.

Mounting the drive motor at 10 o'clock does have one draw back.  Since the lever now point upwards when engaged, there is a tendency for the drive to disengage with vibration and gravity.  Otherwise all works well when you use the St 4000 setting set out in Rocco response.

Ray

sail4dale

I had the same problem.  I solved it by mounting the drive on the port side at about the 10 o'clock position (180 degrees from the lower starboard side).  works fine.
Cat34 Mk II True Luff #1582  2001
San Pedro, CA (Port of Los Angeles)

jimhaas

I am currently installing the rudder position sensor on my C34 #428.  Does anyone have experience connecting to the radial drive?

Mike Smith

#7
Originally from jimhass -

"I am currently installing the rudder position sensor on my C34 #428.  Does anyone have experience connecting to the radial drive?"

Jim -

I have thought about installing a rudder position transducer, also.  I think there was an old thread about it - I remember it was a tight fit...  I'll do some searching and see what I can find.  I'll start a new thread if I can't.

Mike

PS  Couldn't find anything, starting new thread...

rirvine