Installing Clutches

[Frank Stich]

My '89 has no clutches on the port side, only a single cleat.  Now that I've added a rigid vang and a spare halyard, I intend to install a double clutch (for the halyards) and a sheetstopper (for the vang).  

I'm looking for tips/lessons learned regarding clutch alignment/height.  Has anyone used Starboard in lieu of Teak as a platform for mounting clutches?  Any advice I could get from the C34 clan would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Frank

#927 "Prime Interest"

[Mike Smith]

Frank -

I installed triple clutches on both sides, replacing all the old hardware. For the port mounting pad I removed the starboard pad, took it to a woodworking shop, and had them make a teak mirror image copy. Mounting is simple using SS bolts (1/4" x 4" as I remember) and acorn nuts and washers to finish off below. Just try to keep the drill as perpendicular as possible to the mounting pad. A portable drill press/Dremel tool would be perfect. The portside bolts will intrude into the head and I had to use one SS lag screw to replace one SS bolt for attachment into the door jamb. Looks good, works great.

Mike

Mike and Jan Smith
S/V Breezer WCX8545
www.mikejansmith.com

[Stu Jackson]

Frank

Maybe I'm the only one who calls them sheetstoppers!

Try:

http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=srch&s=329609511&findw=sheetstoppers

There were some articles about them on the main website, as I recall.  You may want to try searching there as well.  At least on the starboard side there is reported to be a metal backing plate inside the cabintop.  Don't know if they put those in on the port side.

Starboard would work, but I sure don't think it would look as good as a piece of teak.

The height shouldn't be a problem if you bring the lines through the holes underneath your traveller track, which are a bit off the cabintop surface anyway.  Just compare it with what you already have on the starboard side.

Use all the tried and true methods of bedding, you only need silicone.  5200 is NOT necessary, the bolts will do the work.  Consider the length of the bolts and use acron nuts inside to avoid head banging.

Stu

[dave davis]

Sounds like a good improvement to add Clutches/sheet stoppers. Mike smith covered it pretty well.The other thing to consider is use a Harken Cam Swivel to use for your ridged boom vang. Works great and can use it off/center. Also, to get a more straight line on your Halyards, I pulled back the teak block aft as far as you have room without interfering with you overhead air vent in your head. Also, check to see if you have the long halyard guides under the traveler. The original short guides caused too much of an angle. The new Garhauer rope clutches have a double spring load so that you will not have very much slippage with the new hi-tech halyards. As far as a good bedding compound, I am using Silpruf silicone made by GE. Recommended by my rigger.
Good luck

[Mike Smith]

Frank -

If you decide to install rope clutches, let me know. Inserting the SS through-bolts can be a real puzzle. You need to work the lever back then forth to get the bolt and bolt heads to clear the internal hardware, but it is well worth it. I used Spinlock hardware from West marine.

Mike

Mike and Jan Smith
S/V Breezer WCX8545
www.mikejansmith.com

[This message was edited by Mike & Jan Smith "Breezer"  '88 #688 on November 12, 2003 at 05:42 PM.]

[ltower]

Has anyone tried to install rope clutches on a Catalina 34 MarkII.  The bolts do not extend into the cabin so not sure how to access them.  Does it require removal of the hatch?

My main halyard rope clutch will not stay open.  Also appears that one allen screw is loose but no room to get allen wrench in there as rope clutch is in middle between two other rope clutches on starboard side.

Any suggestions?

[sail4dale]

my clutch suffered from the same problem.  After one time of removing tha clutch to get to the Allen scrrew, I got a clue.  Take a standard allen wrench, and grind off about half of the extension.  It now fits between the clutches and the tightening can be done.   

[Stu Jackson]

You may want to consider NOT using a port clutch (sheetstopper) for the jib halyard if you have roller furling.  We didn''t run ur jib halyard aft.  We used a cleat on the port side of the mast for our jib halyard, which rarely sees any use, other than tightening on a regular basis to assure that the head of our ProFurl is high enough at the top of the mast.  This saves space on the port side sheetstoppers for additional double mainsheet reefing lines written up in Tech Notes.  We use separate rotating cam cleats for the lines from the rigid vang and our cunningham.

A search on "sheetstoppers" finds lots of posts, including this one: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=105.0

Try a search on "clutches" and "reefing" also.

[Jon Schneider]

You always want to loosen the jib halyard on a furled sail when you're finished with it to minimize stretch.  I think a clutch is the most convenient way of doing that.

[Stu Jackson]

Jon, you're right, except, as noted in the associated post about main halyards, my Sta-Set jib halyard stretches so much, it doesn't matter!   

[Jon Schneider]

Stu, I hate to waste a whole post on this, but LOL (really).  I'll have to reconsider my fixation with low-stretch halyards ;)

[Ron Hill]

Frank : It sounds as though your boat came from the factory just like mine.  No rope stoppers on the port side and not even a teak pad the mount them on (like the starboard side - somewhere around 1990 the factory molded in those pads and stopped using teak).
The first thing you'll have to do is make a teak/fiberglass pad.  I bought one (teak) from the factory after I looked at the triple angles that needed to be cut ( so both sides matched).
All rope stoppers are NOT the same.  Get one that compresses the line rather than the kind that has "teeth" .  You haylard lines will last much longer by wearing less.
Read the posts above and decide how many lines you're going to lead aft.  I'd put at least a double rope stopper in even if you only plan on using one - you'll have a extra for future use like a rigid Vang.   
A few thoughts   

[ltower]

I took the advice, made a short allen wrench, tightened the loose allen screw, and all is now well with the main halyard rope clutch.  Great!  Been bothering me for awhile.