Cabin top leak

[rappareems]

I have water coming in the cabin through the port dorade fitting.  I rebebed the dorade to no avail.  One clue is that there is no evidence of leakage after a rainfall until I take the boat out and there is some heel involved.  Any one likely spot to start looking?  There are so many possible culprits.

[Stu Jackson]

Mark

In my recent Mainsheet Dorade Replacement writeup in the Tech Notes, I noted that we replaced the dorades because they were getting long in the tooth and that they were leaking.  The conclusion of the story was that the leak was NOT from the dorades, but rather from the traveler track.  Only other things around there are the handrails.  So, I recommend checking the traveler bedding and the handrails.  Worked for us.

[Randy Stolze]

Mark,

    I just solved the same problem of overhead leaks showing through the vents. I found the answer through this board in a dialog between Stu and Al Landry. Al noted that his leak was due to stress cracks found around the raised portion of the deck that supports the travler and contains the dorade fixture. Check yours very closely for any fine cracks.

Randy

   

[rappareems]

Randy,

Getting the boat ready to haul yesterday and I noticed I have those hairline cracks you found around the base of the traveller pedestal.  Any suggestions on the fix?  Looks like it would be a tricky place to grind out and fill etc. etc.

Mark

[Rick Johnson]

That's timely!  I just noticed the same thing last weekend.  Wasn't there something about through bolting the traveler also?  Stu?

[Stu Jackson]

Rick

Please re-read my previous post.  I also started an earlier post right here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3096.0, which Kathy Knowles so graciously completed, which provided the entire Tech Notes Index for you to copy, so you could search it from your own word processors. 

Try August 2005 - Dorade Replacement. 

C'mon guys...

Through bolting the traveler was discussed eons ago, also, either in the Tech Notes or in FAQs.  The deal is that the older boats (pre-1988, I think) didn't have a second long bolt through the traveler, which, when gybing, could cause the whole assembly to pull out.  Happened a just few weeks ago during the National Regatta to #108 because he didn't read the stuff that we keep reminding you to do:  doesn't hurt to spend some time learning, even though i know we'd all rather be sailing, but it sure is more comforting to learn about what needs to be done to keep your boats in good repair.  You buy the bolts and nuts from Catalina, and the long drill from your local hardware store.

As to the hairline crack, I did have that conversation with Al, but it was an issue on his boat, not ours.  I don't see any reason one couldn't grind down that area and re-gelcoat, but before I would consider doing it (with its attendant need to match gelcoat color, etc.) I'd try the obvious ones first.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The traveler problem was with the 1st year production C34s (1986).  It's written up in the Tech notes and also in the FAQs. 
It's something that you definitely need to check if you have a 1986 C34.   

[saildog2]

I have discovered a leak at one of the rope clutchs that is bolted thru the teak railing for the cabin hatch. There is a dodger mounted, so no rain directly on cabin top, and by applying the 'laws of gravity' I am baffled by this one, as it is at virthally the highest point on the cabin top. My only thought would be the traveler. I have attemped to find leak by inserting small plastic tube into hole and blowing air into it - can hear air excaping, but cant pinpoint the location.  I would appreciate any comments/suggestions.  Great info above re additional thru bolts for the traveler - it will be at the top of my spring 'project list'
Thanks

[Ron Hill]

Dale : Take some colored Koolaide and put it in the hole that you're blowing in - and see where it comes out?     

[Jon Schneider]

I think Ron's idea is a great one (use regular Koolaid, but, obviously, don't add the sugar... don't get the pre-sweetened stuff!).  I'm having some trouble understanding where the leak is.  Is it right at the thru-bolt where the clutch is (and why is the clutch positioned on the hatch rail... seems a tough angle to use the winch, no?)  If it is at that thru-bolt, you've found the leak, haven't you?  I would bet that that rail is rotted out at where the thru-bolt is and water is dripping in through splashes and driving rain along the sliding hatch track.  Could that be happening?

[saildog2]

Jon - I know where the water is intering boat (bolt hole thru clutch on hatch track) but I have not found where water originates topside.  That part of the track is under the dodger, and I"m not too sure about the rot as this was a So. Cal and fairly dry boat.  I also thought it may be dripping down the line and entering thru the bolt on top of clutch, but that is not the case. If it were leaking at rail in front of dodger, water would have to run 'up hill' a little.  Pulling hatch rails does not sound like a fun project........

[Jon Schneider]

I hate to say it, but I think pulling the rail is surely the best way to solve this problem.  I've done it.  Not such a big deal.  Just drill out the eight or so bungs, and you'll find Phillips screws underneath.  Use the absolute biggest screwdriver you can find for leverage (as in proper size head and long stem/big handle) and go slowly.  Remember to caulk each of the screws areas when you replace the rail.  A potentially less effective technique -but a first step- would be to simply remove the clutch and really seal the thru-bolt hole.  You might be right about wet lines dripping as the cause, but you should be able to replicate that by dripping some water into the clutch and seeing if it leaks inside.