Traveller Upgrade...and...CNG refill

Ken Juul · June 08, 2006, 07:11:19 AM

My July project is to upgrade the the new Garhauer traveller. Have read most of the archived material. I am planning on runing the lines forward to the hatch track then back under the dodger to new cam cleats. Looking for suggestions on the best block to use for the new forward turning block. I'm considering either a simple block on a swivel or perhaps a swiveling stand up block to keep the untensioned block from banging on the cabin top

Skip (signed on as a guest in Nov 2003) said he had such a set up, are you still here?

Jon Schneider · June 10, 2006, 07:25:57 PM

If I understand your question correctly, Garhauer actually supplies their own version of a halyard lift block (see a picture here: http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29) for the entry point under the dodger. They also supply Ronstan fixed cam cleats as stoppers. I found that because of the height of the head hatch on the port side, I needed to get a standing block and I needed to elevate the cam cleat as well (Ronstan makes these "lifters") in order to run the traveler line over the hatch. If I had it to do over, I'd have replaced the Ronstan cam cleats with rotating Harken cam cleats (they have different holes, so I'm not inclined to drill any more in the coach roof). I'd also have used a standing block on both sides for consistency (yes, I know... the hobgoblin of small minds).

Ken Juul · June 14, 2006, 11:51:32 AM

Attached diagram is what I have in mind.

I may also need a bullet guide midway between the turning block and the Cam Cleats. I hope to use the cam cleats that come with the traveller upgrade, but will have to play with mounting them on the hatch track or cabin top.

Tom Soko · June 14, 2006, 12:38:11 PM

Ken,
I think I did what you have in mind. I have a C36, but I'm pretty sure the cabintop layout is similar. It can be seen at: http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4288188659&code=13911531&mode=invite&DCMP=isc-email-AlbumInvite
pictures #92-93. I'd suggest mounting the cam cleats as far aft on the cabintop as possible. When I first mounted mine near the bullseye fairleads, they were not as easy to use. The traveler control lines had to be "reversed" as far as direction thru the blocks goes (from counterclockwise to clockwise, as you look from above). Has worked well for three years. The turning blocks are Harken. Can't remember the part #. Hope this helps.

Jeff Kaplan · June 14, 2006, 02:32:02 PM

ken, my question is, why do you want to bring the lines forward and then back, instead of just going aft directly to cam cleats on the coach roof? seems a straighter line would be less friction. i am planning to get a new traveler for next season and will have garhauer eliminate their camcleats and will just bring the lines directly back to the existing ones. my lines just go back thru grommets in the dodger...jeff

Jon Schneider · June 14, 2006, 02:34:29 PM

I didn't understand you, Ken; now with your sketch I see what you're trying to do. I guess it's ingenious, but I prefer (well, it's what I have) the simpler, direct route through the window of the dodger. Here a picture of my set up without the dodger (a little earlier this season, so I hadn't put the dodger up yet). It may be a touch difficult to see what's going on, so go here (http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=164524723&size=l) to see the shot full size. As long as you can put a slit through the dodger window, this set up works really well.

Stu Jackson · June 14, 2006, 03:22:07 PM

Ken

I understand now, too. I also agree with Jon S's last post about going through the dodger. I posted a picture here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2781.0 Shows our setup (without the dodger installed) with the cam cleat and bullseye on the cabin top and the block, installed by Guido, on the traveler end cars. If you can make a single hole with a grommet in your dodger window, as Jeff noted, I would suggest that in lieu of your extra-friction-inducing arrangement, although your good sketch makes it clear that it should work. Good luck.

Ken Juul · June 15, 2006, 05:47:10 AM

I'm getting a new Dodger this season also. I just have a problem putting a hole in a brand new window. I know boats are made to get wet, but why put a hole in a device ment to keep you dry? I can also see myself getting a kink in the traveller line and ripping the window out during an emergency dump of the traveller. Murphy is never far away. With the upgrade in purchase from 3:1 to 6:1 I don't think the extra block will be noticed.

Thanks Julandra that is exactly what I have in mind. I hadn't thought of mouting the turning block on the companionway cover. That looks much cleaner than mounting the block on the wood. How did you attach them?

Tom Soko · June 15, 2006, 08:09:01 AM

Ken,
When installing the small blocks (bullet blocks?), I had to find the exact position that would not cause the line to rub on anything, and the side of the companinway cover was it. I simply installed them with eye straps, self tapping screws and a dab of sealant. I was afraid of them pulling out, but they've been through a few 'less than perfect' gybes, and haven't moved. I suppose if they ever do pull out, I will take the companway cover off and install them again with proper backing plates.

BillG · June 15, 2006, 09:55:34 AM

Tom, your photo album of Julandra is very impressive, could you at some time detail the parts needed for your CNG adapter?

Stu Jackson · June 15, 2006, 10:19:18 AM

Ken

I understand your point. FWIW, with our setup, which we've been using since we upgraded the traveler, we've had emergency "dumps" of the traveler many times here on SF Bay. With the setup in my picture referenced above, with the turning block on the traveler end cars, the single grommet in the dodger window and the bullet fairlead to the cam cleat, the line is so straight that even when dumping the line there has never been a problem, no kinks, especially if you use the smaller 5/16 inch line in lieu of 3/8 inch which ends up swelling and binding on the block sides. And we had a brand new dodger built with the single holes on each side. It's small and we've not had any water come in through them.

Tom S's arrangement is also very ingenious and avoids the hole in the dodger window. Well documented, thanks Tom. Here's another reference with picture of a C34 with Tom's setup: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2417.msg13624#msg13624

Good luck with your new dodger, and your new setup.

Jeff Kaplan · June 15, 2006, 05:07:43 PM

ken, it sounds like my boat is set as stu's. as stated, my lines come straight back thru a grommets placed in the dodger. the end of the traveler is close to the corners of the dodger and the grommets are in the material, not thru the window itself, and as with stu, we get no water coming thru. the person making your dodger will have no problem adding grommet holes...jeff

Tom Soko · June 15, 2006, 05:37:51 PM

BillG,
The CNG refill adapter was an idea that I got from a C34 owner. I can't come up with a name at this time, but I'm sure his contact info came from this site. As Stu would say, "Have you done a search?"!!!
-Tom

Stu Jackson · June 15, 2006, 09:24:18 PM

BillG

Tom's right, it's amazing what you can learn from two easy searches on "CNG" and then "refill"

Ken Juul · June 16, 2006, 05:21:57 AM

Stu you are Search Miester.

The last one you sent has the picture I have been searching for. I must have tried a dozen times to find it. Good pictures of both set ups.

An additional reason I don't want to run the lines through the dodger is the loss of the storage space. Sweaters, magazines, chart books, all sorts of stuff ends up getting "stashed" there to keep it out of the wind or rain. Think I'll get the best of both worlds, new easy to use traveller with no loss space.