Bent ignition keys, by stepping on them when in use?

[Santa Cruizer]

Has anyone got a solution for the ignition key being too close to the seating area?
I would like to install a button or switch that would not get stepped on regularly.

[Stu Jackson]

While this doesn't answer the ? when motoring, what we've done is to place the boat keys on a floater plus a loop of small line/twine/string.  When the motor is shut off, we remove the key from the slot, and place the keys, with the string, over the kill switch balck handle.  It keeps them handy, but now out of the way.  We've bent at least two keys, and I just had them duplicated.  Since we're usually sailing more than motoring, at least we've gotten the key out of the way most of the time.  I recommend duplicating the key before it (they) get(s) too bent.

[Ron Hill]

Santa : I assume that you have a Mk I with the narrower stern.  Always post your Hull # and production year so you get the correct answer.
What you could do is rewire the engine instrument panel and remove the present key switch.  You'd then put in a simple two position ON/OFF leaver switch and a "push on" glow plug switch.  For the security afforded by a key switch you could wire in a master keyed OFF/1/All/2 battery switch in the main electrical panel above the nav station.

I've only had my C34 for 19 seasons and have never had a problem with stepping on the key switch.  Guess in those years I've been in the cockpit thousands of times. 
I NEVER take the key out of the switch while the boat is underway or even at anchor - you never know when you might need to start the engine ASAP. 

[David Sanner]

Not sure what year/model you have but on my earlier model the
engine panel is on the port side.  We kept having the key breaking off
or being bent when racing or just being active in the cockpit.

I now have a special 'race key' that has half the head of the key
cut off so it doesn't stick out past the plexiglas cover.

If you're worried about loosing or dropping the small key over the side
just make a few extra... and keep a real key on a float onboard as well.

While I'm on the topic of engine control it sure would be nice
to have the steaming light turn on automatically while the engine and
navigation lights are both turned on.... or just an alternate switch
for it by the engine controls.

[rirvine]

David:

Your question around having the steaming light come on when the navigation lights are on and engine is turned on is easy to solve.  Connect the output of SPST relay to the streaming light circuit down stream of the steam light switch but before the fuse; connect the navigation light circuit down stream of the navigation switch but after the fuse to the relay input; and  the output of the initial key to the relay control input.  You may have to move / add a fuse or two to give you the protection you need.

Ray

[Ron Hill]

David & Ray : On the "Automatic" C34 - if you add a fiber optic and a switch,  your anchor light will come on when you drop the anchor (if it'd dark).   

[David Sanner]

Good suggestion Ray as this would keep the engine battery/circuit isolated
from the house batteries.  If you connected the relay on the upstream
side of the steaming light switch (and made that the only power to the light)
the steaming light could be turned off in case you wanted to sail at night
while charging the batteries with the engine.

This all seems like too much work for me though it would save a trip down
below just when your hands are full on deck dropping/raising the sails.

I'm thinking that the manufacturers should add a few switches on
the engine control panel, nav, steaming, & deck light while they're at it.
(or how about a remote switch for all of you with a windlass)

So many options, so little time.