Refinishing Teak

[jpaulroberts]

I did a lot of systems work last year (new fuel tank, rebedded chainplates, new barrier coat on hull) and now I'm doing all my deck treak. I plan to remove the hand railings but do everything else in place. I just want to hear what some of you are using these days. I know cetol goes on easy but it's a bit soft and does not realy penetrate the wood. So I'm left with spar varnish two part stuff like Bristol,  or Epifanes. Anyone have any thoughts on brands, etc. Thanks. Jerry

[Rick Johnson]

I took everything off and used Cetol light, so I'm no help there.  My suggestion on removing the grab rail (and I found it here after having an issue) is to tap the bolts gently from underneath.  Just a little on each one and move on to the next, slowly bringing the grab rail off in stages.  The darn teak is brittle and will crack or chip at the drop of a hat!  It's worth doing though and I'm very happy with the results.

Cheers,

Rick

[Ron Hill]

Jerry : Just make sure that after you take the acorn nut off that you "tap" on a nut attacked to the threads.  That way you won't bugger up the threads.   With the hand holds off take a hack saw and cut a slot in the open end of the threaded bolt.  That way when you reinstall you can start the nut and then hold the bolt from turning with a screwdriver as you tighten the nut.   

As far as Cetol - the reason that we're all using it is because of the UV protection which protects for YEARS.  Don't know if any of the varnishes that have the same great UV protection of Cetol.  I'd rather be sailing than sanding!!   

[Ron Hill]

Jerry : Almost forgot to pass on one of my tricks. 
After you finish sanding it down and just before you get ready to put on the first coat of finish, wash down the teak with 50/50 water and bleach.  The black spots that you usually see in teak is mildew and the bleach kills those mold spores.  That will raise the grain so you have to go over the teak again with 200/300 grit sand paper when it drys.   

[Phil Spicer]

Jerry,
I am looking into changing most of my teak on our 1988 to "Plasteak." Plasteak is a recycled plastic lumber product & is available in 7 colors. www.plasteak.com is  in Akron, Ohio. Their phone is 800-320-1841. The bottom line is just wash & wax. Plasteak is uv stable but the company person I talked with said I may want to power wash every 10 years to keep it looking good.
  If you are handy you can use your old handrails as a template and make a set from plasteak 2by lumber. Take them to the boat and drill and fit on site.
I plan to change most teak to plasteak, but I am going to try stainless for my handrails on deck. Right now I plan to build elliptical rollers and reform a ss round into an ellipse. Then build handrails like the newer boat. No more teak cleaning. Just my thoughts on what to do with teak.
Phil Spicer
#789
Steamboat

[Ted Pounds]

Phil,

That stuff looks cool  .  Let us know how it turns out (pictures maybe?).  Will the new SS handrails fit our boats?  If so, that seems like an easier way to go - order them from Catallina.  Just a thought...

[Phil Spicer]

Ted,
  As I remember, the new boats don't bolt on every 12". They have a much larger space between bolts. It wouldn't hurt to check with the factory, but I usually make things myself. I'm a teacher........more time than money.
  With the long space between bolts youhave old holes. You could seal in a trim washer & flathead screw. That always looks like it is holding something on  the other side of the deck.
Phil

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Let me repeat some old posts.

The last of the MKIs in 1992/3 have factory installed stainless hand holds.  If you look at our parts list you'll find the stainless and teak hand holds listed at the 1995 price.  As Phil said you can fill the unused holes with a screw, caulk and a finishing washer.

I just wish that I had Phil's facilities available (industrial arts teacher) and some of the student "assisted" labor.   

[jpaulroberts]

 

[jpaulroberts]

Sorry, my message got left off my last post. Does anyone have a picture of the stainless handholds they can post? Thanks. Jerry

[John Gardner]

I have some of the teak off my boat for re-finishing now.  I use Bristol Finish and think it is great.  It is so easy to work with, though I've seen some comments that you have to make sure the surface and the atmosphere is dry, else it goes cloudy.  I've just had no problems.  Paint it on with a foam brush, and apply another coat every hour or so.  Ever so easy to build a thick coat.

For the pieces I can bring home, I mix a little in a yoghurt cup or similar, apply a coat or two in the evening after work.  Put the wood in the furnace room to dry, seal the Bristol Finish in the cup with some sticky tape and put it in the drinks fridge (no body has mistaken it for anything potable so far) and it will keep for a couple of days that way.

It's a two part finish.  Make sure the lid and neck of the hardener bottle is clean when you put the lid on - it can become utterly sealed on.

Good luck whatever your choice.

[Susan Ray]

Phil...Did you build those stainless handrails and if so do you have pictures?
Susan

[Phil Spicer]

Susan,
Project is on hold.........hand surgery #2 coming up soon. I have the rollers designed for CNC, but the hand is slowing me down. I teach CAD so the design is always fun time. Design, Model, Tool path, & now the machines do the work. But to finish the handrails,final  bend on the ends, weld on studs, drill some holes...I really need 2 good hands. I hope about 6 or 8 weeks. So until I can get back to work I am just doing some more stainless paris for friends. I can still move a mouse for the CAD & CAM.
Phil