Cross-tie stern?

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Kyle Ewing

Other than problems with dock line chafe, will stern cleats handle being cross tied, similar to how some power boats tie up?  

Because of the way my dock cleats are arranged, cross-tying will make it easier to tie Donnybrook when I dock stern first.  I'm concerned about load coming from a direction other than what was designed.  Another alternative, of course, would be to move the cleat that's already on the dock.

Thanks for your ideas.

Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago
Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago
http://www.saildonnybrook.com/

Stu Jackson

Kyle

All the cleats are simply through-bolted.  That means that they'll handle loads in any direction.  There are no directional issues involved (other than straight up!).
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Kyle : The cleats are plenty strong for a cross tie off at the stern.  
As you point out, you my incounter chaff problems with the lines themselves, the stern ladder, and other items that you've hung off the stern pulpet(ie dink outboard, etc)  :!:
Ron, Apache #788

Ted Pounds

Just a note on the stern cleats:  they are only backed with large washers (at least that was the case on "Molly Rose").  I didn't think that was adequate (especially since I hook my spinnaker sheet blocks to them).  So I used some aluminum bar stock to make backing plates for them.
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

David Arnold

The issue was raised about docking stern to: has anyone come up with ways to get the swim ladder out of the way while keeping it out of the water for extended periods of time?
David
"Prints of Tides"
Naragansett Bay, RI
2005 - #1707

john meyer

I modified my swim ladder several years ago so that it functions both as a ladder, and as a gate.  I cut the ladder off above the 90°, and inserted some stainless rod into the lower, remaining structure.  With one rod about 4" longer than the other, I can release strategically placed "ball lock" pins that hold the "ladder",  raise the ladder > 4" to clear one rod, and then pivot the "gate" portion on the remaining pin.  After 4 years of use, I'm still satisfied. (the modification has been more completely described in several Main Sheet articles).

David Arnold

John,
Thanks!  I did see the modification to the ladder in Main Sheet; Nice Job.  Can you enlighten me or us as the case may be as to where to locate the various parts you used?  I don't recall the article mentioning the sources.
David
"Prints of Tides"
Naragansett Bay, RI
2005 - #1707

john meyer

David, I'm sorry I haven't put this modification into the Projects file yet - it's only been four years and my mind basically lives on Island Time too often.  As to the parts- a second gate hinge was ordered directly from Catalina; the stainless steel rod was picked up at a local metals supply house, misc. stuff like ss laynards, ss bolts, etc. came from a local hardware.  I'll email you separately, a couple of drawings I made of this contraption.

mike lofstrom

David:  another quick fix for the open transom stern ladder being in the way when backed into a slip is to make it removeable.  I simply removed the pivot bolts, drilled the bracket threads out to 1/4 inch, and put a couple of quick release pins in.  The pins are available with small wire lanyards from West Marine.  ( I think they are made for Biminis).  Now it only takes a minute to remove the ladder completely, and set it on the dock.  (  Someday I'm going to rig up a bracket to hang it on the stern rail so it is out of the way!)

David Arnold

Mike,
Thanks for the suggestion on the quick remove pins.  I think I will try that first.  EASY!
David
"Prints of Tides"
Naragansett Bay, RI
2005 - #1707