replacing fixed ports

[Jeff Kaplan]

another project that i am contemplating, is to replace the 4 fixed ports in the main salon. the smoked ports in hull#219 are crazed, and new ones will make the cabin look new, along with my new teak/holly sole that i am in the process of finishing, which will be posted later ,after the snow is gone and i can get onboard to install. my question is where to get the ports, catalina or another source, and how to remove old and install new. all info will be greatly appreciated. thanks...jeff kaplan

[Stu Jackson]

Jeff

Go to SEARCH at the top of this page.  Type in weblog in the search engine and hit the search button.

There will be about 12 or more hits.  Scroll down to the bottom, you'll see Steve Lyle's My First year WEBlog, and just above that another thread on fixed ports repair by tom glennon.

[Jeff Kaplan]

stu, i tried that link and the only real info was that very good sealant is needed. looking on where to purchase, remove and install. thanks...jeff

[Stu Jackson]

Jeff

I also tried another search on purchase fixed ports.  Larry Calfee and Tom Glennon showed up again.

There wasn't one specific answer to your question.  I do, however, remember some discussion about using TAP Plastics, a plastics company here in California, don't know if they're back your way.  There is, of course, the handy dandy method of calling Catalina Yachts and asking them.  Sometimes the most obvious escapes me.

[PAUL T.]

Jeff.........There are step by step instructions on replacing the fixed ports in the FAQ section of this website.  There is a company that advertises in the mainsheet that sells replacement windows. You can also find a plastics fabricator that will make them for you. Try to get the windows out in one piece to use for a template. As for what sealant to use, this is a controversial subject. I have used 3M 4200 with great results, I have also had success with marine grade black silicone. Whatever you do do not use 5200 as this is permanent and I do mean permanent........Hope this helps..... Paul

[Jeff Kaplan]

paul, thanks for the info. went to faq and printed info. must get on  boat first, as the hull is 1986 and i don't remember the ports being screwed on. looks like press on. faq mentioned that in 1987 ports changed. we'll  see in a month or so when i can get aboard. another snow storm today delays getting to the storage yard. thanks again...jeff

[Roc]

Jeff, Before going through the work of replacing the fixed ports, have you tried buffing them out with scratch remover first??  Novus makes a good plexiglass scratch remover, highly rated by PS.  Try using the #3 Scratch Remover.  It might be worth using the simple solution first.

[kerk fisher]

Does this buffing work for "crackled" windows as well?  Mine are not scratched per se, but I think crackled from the sun.  Kerk

[Mike Vaccaro]

Kerk,

If you're talking about what appear to be small, deep "cracks" in the plastic, this is called crazing.  It can become so bad that the optics of the panel are destroyed--i.e., it's difficult or impossible to see through it any more.  Buffing will not restore crazed acrylic or plexiglass.  The primary cause is UV damage and improper use of cleaners.  Anything with amonia is an athema to most plastic polymers and will eventually result in crazing.  In a typical tropical marine environment where the boat remains in the water year round, most plastic will show evidence of crazing after about five years or so, unless it is kept covered.

The best thing to do after you've replaced the old panels are to clean the new ones in accordance with the manufacturers instructions and keep them waxed.  The wax will help with "repairing" surface imperfections as well as providing some UV protecttion.  If the family budget allows, canvas (or subrella) covers will go a long way to preserving your deadlights.  

By the way, there are several good foam type cleaners available that are safe for use on plastic surfaces.  These are usually sold for the maintenance of plexiglas used for aircraft windscreens and windows.  

Cheers,

Mike

[Roc]

Kerk,
The basis of my suggestion to buff the windows wasn't to completely restore your fixed ports to look like new, but to enhance them to a point were they might look much better.  You'll never get deep scratches out, but if you get most of the little fine ones and optimize the clarity, you may feel that you can go by for a few more years before diving into a total replacement.

[Jeff Kaplan]

i got in touch with a company called modern plastics who sell the novus#3 products. they told me that the product was a scratch remover but would not do anything for the crazing, which is internal and caused by uv penetration. i therefore skipped on buying the product and got in touch with cruising concepts, they advertise in mainsheet. the replacement kit for my 1986, no alum. frames, is, with shipping to ma. about $320. they also e-mailed me pictures of installation which look pretty straight foward. they supply the butyl sealing tape, which if not used voids the warranty of not leaking. don't know if i will do this project in spring or wait till haulout as i have undertaken so many projects, i want to leave time to sail and enjoy the boat, our season is so short up here in the northeast. well all i can do is dream of sailing now as we just got another snow storm today and expect another big one next week. will keep you posted on my progress. thanks for the replys...jeff kaplan#219

[kerk fisher]

Great info and advice. What kind of wax is good on these windows?  Kerk

[Roc]

Kerk,
Novus makes a spray cleaner that was highly rated by PS.  You might want to get some.  I use it on my plastic hatches, windows and dodger windows.  By the way, the Novus #2 scratch remover does a great job of getting the haze out of the dodger windows.  They look brand new.

[Mike Vaccaro]

Kerk,

Any wax will do, just be sure to check the label to determine if there are any compatibility issues with plastic/lexan/plexiglass/acrylic.

When we wax the topsides, we use the same liquid wax (normally 3M marine or Starbrite Teflon) on the windows.  We also use a random orbital buffer, but plain old elbow grease will do the trick.  Orbital buffers work exceptionally well at scratch removal, but should be used with care since they can damage the plastic if not used properly.    

From a UV protection standpoint, anything is better than nothing!

Cheers,

Mike

[kerk fisher]

Thanks, all, for the info.  Kerk