Engine Electrical Panel

[bhatter]

Just read Steve Ormond's June article (re: engine electrical panel). I have experienced the same problem (all gauges fail with engine running). I concluded there was a problem with the ignition wire. Attempts to remove the panel were unsuccessful. The six mounting screws had nuts on the back and I could not reach them. The four mounting screws on the large outside panel came out but every effort to dislodge it were unsuccessful. Any advice on how to get to the panel and check the wires? Would removing the port bulkhead in the aft berth give me access to the back of the panel?

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

No, removing the bulkhead won't help much.  T

he only thing holding the panel in should be the six mounting screws, which should be "sheet metal" types simply screwed into the surrounding fiberglass flange.  

If they have nuts on the back, you may be able to use a pliers to turn the screw while pulling on the nut to tension the nut against the flange.  If you have to access the panel from below, your best bet is the aft lazarette if you've got an older boat.  With the propane tank out, there's plenty of room back there to climb down inside (if you're not too big!) and get an arm around the corner.

Hope this helps!

Mike

[Ken Juul]

Yes you can get to the panel by removing the the aft cabin bulkhead.  But you will turn into a pretzel trying to reach up to access the panel.  It's worth a try, the panel has to come off to check the pickup screen per your other message.

If the screws are out of the panel, the only thing holding it in is sealant.  Using a thin putty knife start working your way around the edge working the putty knife into the joint gradually expanding it.  Make take several trips around the panel.  You can lessen the chance of scratching the fiberglass by putting down a strip of masking tape first.  The screws hold the panel in place, the sealant is to keep the inside of the boat dry.  When you replace it, make sure you just use a sealant, not a sealant-adhesive.  The nuts on the interior panel were probably used because the holes were stripped.  You might want to just use larger screws to hold it in place.

[Ron Hill]

bh : As Ken said, "If all of the screws are out the only thing holding the panel in is sealant".  Lift up the aft hatch and reach around from the rear and push it out from the back.
If you decide on a whole new panel call Seaward.

[Stu Jackson]

bh

You really have to get behind the panel through the aft lazarrette.  It's a bear, but do-able.

An earlier C34, #90, that I worked on, had sheet metal screws holding the main frame into the coaming.  Made it easy to fix and replace.

Most of the older boats have nuts and bolts.  Stupid design, but that's what we've got.

Either live with it, or change it.  It's your boat now.

[Lance Jones]

Gawd, I know this is an old thread, but....
I tried removing the engine panel. Screws came out fine - yada yada, yada. However, the engine cut off handle is preventing me from pulling it out. Any suggestions?

[Craig Illman]

Lance - I think I just typically needed to remove the knob at the end to tip out the panel far enough?

[Lance Jones]

Thanks Craig, I'll try that.

[Stu Jackson]

Perhaps Craig didn't mean removing it, but rather raising it up some for clearance.  Has worked for me.

[Craig Illman]

My knob would just unscrew, the base remained.

[Ralph Masters]

Lance,
When I did mine this weekend, I un-screwed the t-handle and the panel came right off.  I used a very thin screw driver, the admiral would not let me use a spatula but the best advice I can offer is slow and easy to get the sealent to stretch and then you can cut it with a knife.
Seems about 5 of us did this project this weekend.

Ralph.

[Ron Hill]

Lance : After you remove the clear acrylic face piece.  You then remove the 6 screw holding the panel itself in the recess. 
You need to hold on one or more of the outside instrument cases and tilt the top of the panel forward.  As the top clears the indented recess you can easily maneuver it around the engine cut-off.  There should be no need to remove the "T" handle of the engine cutoff. 
That works on my 1988. 

[Stu Jackson]

Are the huts holding screws for the silver-colored face where the instruments are (not the plastic clear face plate) captive?  I forgot, since it's been so long ago that I replaced our voltmeter - (1999?).

[Ron Hill]

Guys : There should be screws that the factory put in, but a PO could have used nut & bolts !

[Ralph Masters]

Stu, et al,
Here is the setup on Ciao Bella.  The clear plexi glass cover is held on by four small wood screws.  The aluminum panel is held in by six #6 screws with nuts on the back.  The fiberglass box is held in by six wood screws and a tube and half of sealent compound of some sort.  I thing they were affraid it'd fall out.  I removed the plexiglass cover no problem.  I could not get to the nuts on the back and hold them and turn the screw heads by my self, my arms just aren't that long, I'm not a deck ape.  So I removed the screws holding the fibergalss box in and carefully pryed the box out.  Replaced the switch in about 5 minutes then reversed the process using silicone sealent to keep water intersuion out.  The whole project, including the trip to WM for the sealent took maybe two hours, mostly because the admiral was on special liberty.  If the admiral is there I can count on adding about two hours to every project.

Ralph