Head Sump Drainage

[SEACRECY, #1214]

Help! How do I get the water that drains through the sump drain on the floor of the head to completely drain? I hit the sump pump switch, what water is there gets sucked away down the drain, but then gurgles back up anto the head after the sump pump is turned off.

I've experimented with the 3 valves accessible from the head (engine water, toilet water intake, and sink drain) but none of those seem to make a difference. With the position of the drain being right next to the head's door (I have a '92 model if things have changed in other years) I don't know where that drain drains to and can't access the tube. My owner's manual is no help.

Anyone know what's going on with my returning head sump water? Thanks!

Brian Connelly

[Ken Juul]

The shower drain is normally plumbed into the sink drain.  The pump is located under the head sink also.  Follow the line from the pump, it should run to near the top of the sink enclosure, have a check valve and then down to the tee.  Make sure it is connected and check to make sure the check valve isn't stuck.  There are a couple mods that rearrange the routing of the hoses under the sink, but it should be easy to trace from the pump to the output.

[dprice]

On my boat #1406, I believe the head/shower sump is routed under the galley sink.
It appears to share either a pump or just the discharge with the icebox drain.
Each leg having their own shutoff valve.

So you may want to check under the galley sink.

Dave

[c34member]

Mine also (#1515).  I have to shut off the line I am not draining or the pump sucks air.  To drain shower, close off the refer sump, & vice versa.  I have two through hulls under the galley sink - one for the sinks and one for the sumps.

[Mike Smith]

Hi Brian -

Last month I replaced the shower sump one way valve on Breezer with a new Sure-flow in-line filter which has a clear plastic bowl so you can see when it is clogged.  The bowl unscrews easily for cleaning.  The old one way valve was beyond repair and it was clogged to the point of completely collapsing the post-filter/pre-pump hose.  I replaced that section with the reinforced type.  I intend to add a post-filter check valve, but haven't had a problem with backflow yet. You might want to check the anti-siphon fitting after the hose exits up from the pump and then heads down toward the head inlet "T" to make sure it is functioning properly and not permitting overflow into the bilge.

Mike and Jan Smith
S/V Breezer
www.mikejansmith.com

[This message was edited by Mike & Jan Smith "Breezer" C34 '88 #688 on June 13, 2003 at 09:35 AM.]

[Ron Hill]

Brian : Mikes idea for a filter is a good one, but you still need a one way after that filter.  The one way is made by Shure and I've seen them in the Defender catalog - $7?   APACHE #788  ;)

[Terry]

While we're talking about shower sump drains, my pump makes a lot of noise when I turn it on - I'm not sure what to compare it to (revving an engine to 3000 rpm I guess, but with some misfiring).  Is that normal?

[Stu Jackson]

Shower Pump Noise

Terry

It's a diaphragm pump, not a normal impeller pump.  It's like your manual bilge pump with a motor attached to the handle.

This type of pump can work without a prime, so it can suck the "cr-p" out of the sump which is below it's level.

Our pump is really noisy, too, but it's only on for short bursts.

Doesn't sound like a problem.

Stu

[Eliosso]

MY shower drain was disconnected when I got the boat. Am trying to connect the drain hose from the pump to the drai but cannot find the drain to connect the hose to .Any ideas would be welcomed
Paul

[Mike Smith]

Paul -

Do you mean there is no hose in the compartment under the sink coming up from the shower drain to connect to the strainer/check-valve/sump pump? If not, then the shower is draining into the bilge. Further, the drain cannot be accessed from inside the head - there is too little room to attach the hose to the barb. You will have to remove a panel of your teak and holly sole and cut an access port in the fiberglass floor just outside the head door to get to it. There is a project or article on how to do this - I'll see if I can find the link for you. It is not as bad/difficult as it sounds - the access port is covered up by the teak and holly sole when you re-install it.

Mike

PS Here is the link:

May 2001 TechNotes Vol 18 #2, "Changing A Shower Drain Hose"

[Mike Lofstrom]

I had a similar problem with the shower drain on my boat when I bought it as well.  Check the vented loop in the drain line to make sure the vent valve is clear.  The vented loop is just barely above the water line of the boat. If the vent is plugged, and the check valves in the drain pump get fouled with hair or other debris, the system will seep water back into the shower pan. I re-plumbed my boat after I bought it to match the setup I had on my Catalina 27 years ago.  I removed the Head supply line from the shower drain through-hull, and moved it to the sink drain through-hull.  This way, the shower drain has it's own through-hull valve.  ( this mod is covered elswhere on this site as well).  If you shut the shower drain valve while the pump is still running, it will assure that there is nothing but air in that line.  Then you shut off the pump.  There is a big advantage of having the head line attached to the sink drain.  It allows you to flush the head with fresh water if desired.  If you leave the sink drain through-hull closed and put some water in the sink, you can use this supply to flush the head.  I also put a little pine sol in the sink when I do this, and it keeps the whole system much cleaner.  I do this at the end of every sail to keep the head odors at bay.  When you want to flush the head with sea water, you just open the through hull and put the drain stopper in the sink.  

Mike