Center Hatch Replacement

[crieders]

I have a new one to replace the old leaky hatch. previously someone posted a good description on how that should be done. Would appreciate that again, since I have misplaced it. Thanks

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : I wrote an extensive Mainsheet tech note article on how to replace that center hatch with an identical Bomar.

Later I recommended that owners replace it with a lewmar rather than a Bomar (because of the hatch adjusting arm is NOT attached to the lens !!!)
That lens open/close/adjustment attachment pressure tends to eventually crack the lens!!

A thought

[Noah]

I believe Ron means the hatch opening/support arm is not attached to the lens in the Lewmar. However, I have the Bomar and have not had any issues with it (yet).

[crieders]

for good or bad, I already bought the Bomar

[crieders]

PS what year was that article? thanks again

[crieders]

not in tech wiki and under tech notes, says not there, renamed...so bottom line, could not find it

[Stu Jackson]

Cliff, I, too, wrote a Tech Note, on rebedding my Bomar, same issues though.  Early 2010s.  The TNOs are out of service temporarily, perhaps you can find it, even includes pictures.  Use BedItwithButyl.

[waughoo]

A quick note on Stu's commemt to use butyl...

I replaced my forward trapezoid hatch which is screwed down, not thru-bolted.  As I tightened up the screws, they stripped out of the glass before I got enough compression on the butyl to seal.  I had to remove it, fill the screw holes and re-bed it with something else (forgot what I used - likely sika or boat life caulk).

I default to butyl for nearly everything, but wanted to throw this experience out there as a data point.  It is my favorite bedding compound when I have great clamping force available.  When I am unsure of that, I opt for something more pliable.

[KWKloeber]

I default to butyl for nearly everything, but wanted to throw this experience out there as a data point.  It is my favorite bedding compound when I have great clamping force available.  When I am unsure of that, I opt for something more pliable.

My experience and another data point is that with tapping screws (not machine screws) I can use butyl when the weather hot and snug it down in stages a titch at a time, letting the butyl compress over time rather than putting as much stress on the screw bite as I would if using a through-fastener.