Raritan PHII Installation

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

Folks,

Just completed the replacement of the original Groco head with a Raritan PHII.  Also replaced all of the original sanitation hose and valves.  Overall, everything was pretty straight forward.  We used SeaLand OdorSafe hose.  A total of 20' was required for our 1988 boat, although we probably wasted 4 feet or so through fitting errors.  At about 8 dollars per foot, definitely worth measuring twice, cutting once, but our initial estimate was gracious to ensure that we didn't run out, since the hose is a special order item.

A thorough flush of the system with fresh water was performed, and a bit of bleach was pumped into the tubing (didn't want any in the holding tank itself).  Bottom line, can't do this job without a few wiffs of, well, something I'd just as soon not wiff.  Also made up some bleach/water mixture in a spray bottle to spray on fittings, hose, etc while working.  

Not all Catalina 34's are plumbed the same way, so our only recommendation is to start at the deck discharge, and work your way to the head.  Note that we replaced the short 1 1/2" connection between the tank and the macerator pump, but didn't replace the 1" line from the macerator to the discharge seacock.  I'd recommend replacing the vent line at the same time the main discharge line is replaced, since you'll have access to both.  Catalina ran a single 3/4" ID tube to the vent stantion, but the installation is not possible without kinking the hose.  We fitted a nylon elbow to keep the line properly open.  Keep in mind that it's recommended that 90 degree bends be avoided in vent lines, but I chose to replicate the original installation.  The elbow is fitted immediately below the stantion.  From this point on, there is sufficient room to bend the tube without kinking.

The odor safe tube is easily cut with a hacksaw for a square edge.  I actually used a 4" belt sander to finish the edge.  Certainly not necessary, but not all that much extra effort.  When fitting the hose, a heat gun is very helpful.  Ensure that the hose is warm and flexible, but not too hot (it can become brittle with overheating).  When the hose is warm, it will slip over the fittings.  Smooth fittings usually don't require heating, but demand a second hose clamp.  Molded nipple fittings require heating, and once the hose is on, it's not comming off without the aid of a knife--so don't forget the hose clamps!

Y-valves are one of the most common problems in any system, so I wouldn't hesitate to replace an old valve if it's the least bit worn or suspect.  Unfortunately, these valves aren't cheap!

Use caution around the seacocks.  Fitting the hose can put a considerable amount of force on the fittings and valves.  I managed to crack the nylon thru-hull under the direct discharge seacock.  This bought me an unplanned trip to the slings (2 boat units), a new bronze through hull (.25 boat units) and sealant.  As I do whenever I replace a through-hull, I added a 1/2 plywood backing plate to the inside of the hull for added strength.  This is the third through-hull I've replaced although it's the only one that was leaking (I replaced the transducers for speed and depth when we bought the boat, so I changed the through-hulls at the same time).  During the next bottom job, the remaining four nylon through-hulls will be replaced with metal.

I left the last segment of line off that connects my anti-syphon valve to the head.  When fitting the head, there isn't much room on the platform for the footprint of the PHII, but it's doable if you're careful.  I had to re-bore the hole through the bulkhead with a 1 7/8" hole saw.  This hole was bored at the same angle the hose passes through the bulkhead.  To accomplish this, a small pilot hole was drilled, and then I stuck a long drill bit through the hole to check the angle.  This angle isn't necessary, but simplifies the hose connection at the head, since there isn't any bend induced in the hose.  The same effect could be achieved by overboring the hole, but then you'd end up with a larger than necessary hole through a structural bulkhead.  I covered the old hole with a small vent cover--this is purely cosmetic since I filled the hole with epoxy and a compatable plug.  Didn't feel like trying to blend the repair with the formica on the head side of the bulkhead.  

The PHII has six possible lag bolt mounts.  You don't need six bolts hold the head in place!  I filled and faired the old holes with epoxy.    Four is sufficient, but you'll have to be very careful drilling and sizing the bolts, since the hull liner is very close the the hull.  I used a drill-stop to ensure no bafoonery, and then inserted a long bit to measure the depth underneath the liner to the hull.  Due to the footprint of the PHII, I was able to mount lag bolts in all three front positions and the aft position below the pump handle.  There wasn't sufficient clearance for the two aft bolts under the bowl.  

The PHII has a cosmetic fairing over the base.  This isn't required, but if you do fit it, you'll have to cut the back portion to fair with the liner behind the head platform.  The easiest way to fair the ABS plastic is with a 4" belt sander, then finish the edge with fine sandpaper or file.

The PHII water inlet is on the front of the pump section--most heads have this fitting on the back.  A 90-degree nylon elbow is required to avoid kinking the hose at this point (3/4" ID).  I used solid white hose to match that installed on the head.  Any reinforced tubing will work, but the white looks the neatest.

Since our boat has three seacocks under the sink, I re-arranged some of the plumbing to ease head maintenance.  The factory routed the shower sump to the raw water inlet for the head and the drain from the sink had it's own seacock.  I swapped the sump to the former drain seacock and ran the sink drain to the head inlet.  Now I can flush the head with fresh water just by filling the sink (I need to insert the sink stopper if I want to use seawater to flush).  Also allows us to do a quick vinegar soak with minimal effort.  

My family really likes the simple operation of the new head, and we seemed to have licked the boat smell problem.  Regardless of the tack you take, I'd recommend shelling out for the best hose you can get your hands on and look for savings elsewhere!

Definitely the *&%F#est job yet!

Cheers,

Mike

[Stu Jackson]

HEAD REPLACEMENT

Mike

Wonderful and helpful description.  If you have any pictures, pleae send them to Mark Elkin for Projects.

I, too, installed a 90 degree elbow just below the port stanchion for the vent line.  Our line had a bad kink there, and I agree, while not recommended by Peggy, it sure helped.

Good work.

Stu

[Stu Jackson]

MARINE SANITATION

The FAQ link seems not to be working.

Here's the text:

             MARINE SANITATION : Fact vs. Folklore
  by Peggie Hall
  The Hall Group, Inc.
  Atlanta, Georgia
  Peggie Hall is recognized in the boating industry as one of the few experts in marine
  sanitation. As a member of ABYC, she was a member of a sanitation project technical
  committee formed to establish a standard for sanitation equipment and installation
  onboard from its inception in 1991 through 1996. She is often asked to speak at
  conferences, conduct seminars for various organizations and at major boat shows, and
  is a consultant to a number of state agencies.
  Mrs. Hall first entered the marine business in 1987, when she formed Peal Products,
  which was the first company in the marine industry to focus exclusively on onboard
  sewage management issues and the elimination of odors on boats. Their
  environmentally friendly products were soon given outstanding performance ratings by
  Powerboat Reports and Practical Sailor. In 1999 Mrs. Hall sold Peal Products to Raritan
  Engineering. She is now an independent consultant for The Hall Group, Inc.
  But what matters most to you is that Peggie Hall is also a boat owner who has to deal
  with the same sanitation laws, equipment, and issues that you do!
  (Note: The information contained herein is accurate as of this date. We continually
  revise and update as new laws are passed, new information is learned and new
  equipment comes onto the market--as well as to include more answers to frequently
  asked questions.)
Introduction - Federal Laws - U.S. Coast Guard Certified MSDs
The Marine Sanitation System - Odor Control - Flush with Success
                        INTRODUCTION
  Marine sanitation laws aren’’t anything new——they were included in the Federal
  Water Pollution Act ("Clean Water Act") of 1977——but except on the Great Lakes
  they were largely ignored until the late 1980s when a new environmental
  consciousness began to make marine sanitation a major issue. Whether these laws
  are needed or not can be debated for years. The fact is, we have them, and we’’re
  going to have more of them. The Clean Water Act is up for renewal in Congress.
  Although no one knows exactly what changes will be made, it is a certainty that no
  existing federal laws will be relaxed.
  Therefore, to the dismay of boat owners who find themselves forced to treat and/or
  hold toilet waste, the marine industry has only recently begun to pay any attention
  to effective onboard sewage management……boat builders have yet to address the
  idea that sewage holding must also incorporate sewage management. Virtually no
  one wants to specialize in it——in fact, it’’s a part of the marine industry most
  people try to avoid. Consequently, very few people know anything about it——which
  is why so much misinformation is circulated. Where does all the misinformation
  come from? Most of it can best be categorized as folk-lore: it’’s been said so often
  by so many people, it’’s become "fact." Because supposedly reliable sources in the
  marine industry have told them so, even respected marine industry publications like
  Practical Sailor and Powerboat Reports have disseminated incorrect or half-correct
  information and made recommendations that actually cause the very problems
  they’’re trying to solve.
  We’’re not blaming anyone; till now, the marine industry really hasn’’t had a need to
  understand sewage management--no sewage remained onboard to manage. But
  because marine sanitation is our only business (and because we own a boat with a
  sanitation system), we did feel a need to understand it. So we went to sewage
  treatment experts and environmental engineers outside the marine industry to learn
  the principles of sewage management, and learned how to apply them to onboard
  systems. We then took our applications to marine surveyors in order to be sure the
  advice we offer is safe and effective when applied to marine systems. We’’ve tested
  our recommendations thoroughly——we know they work. We have only one goal: to
  help you install and maintain the right sanitation system for your boat——one that
  meets all the legal requirements, is as easy to maintain as possible, and best of
  all——is odor-free!
                        FEDERAL LAWS
   The definitions don’’t make them easier to understand
  Vessel defined:
  All the Federal marine sanitation laws pertain to "vessels." The Code of Federal
  Regulations, Part 140.3 says a vessel "includes every description of water craft or
  other artificial contrivance used, or capable of being used, as a means of
  transportation upon the navigable waters of the United States..." If it floats and was
  designed to move under its own power——whether or not it presently can——it’’s a
  "vessel." Floating houses that were never intended to move are not vessels, and
  therefore are not subject to marine sanitation laws, but are under the jurisdiction of
  state and local health department laws pertaining to all houses.
  Marine Sanitation Device (MSD) defined:
  The Federal Water Pollution Act defines an MSD as "Any equipment for installation
  onboard a vessel that is designed to receive, retain, treat or discharge sewage, and
  any process to treat such sewage." As such, both the head (toilet), and the Coast
  Guard Certified Type I, II or III MSDs -- which are separate devices from the head -
  - are "MSDs" under that definition; no wonder most people are confused!
     Important Note:
     No marine toilet (head) has ever been made which, by itself, is a Coast Guard
     Certified MSD. All Coast Guard Certified Type I and II MSDs are separate
     treatment devices. The head itself only receives and discharges sewage, it
     doesn’’t retain or treat it; the devices which retain and treat sewage are always
     separate from the head. It is these MSDs, not the heads, which must be
     certified by the Coast Guard that they treat sewage to the standards prescribed
     by law for overboard discharge.
  Now, back to examining the definition of MSDs in general: There are two key words
  in this definition: the first is "installation." A bucket——unless it’’s connected to any
  plumbing, nailed to the cabin sole or otherwise affixed to a vessel——is not
  installed. Therefore, there is absolutely nothing in any current Federal marine
  sanitation law to prevent someone from using a bucket to receive and retain
  (briefly) sewage and then throw the contents overboard. (However the MARPOL
  treaty does prohibit the dumping of raw sewage from any source into United States
  territorial waters.) Should you choose to forget the bucket and urinate or defecate
  directly into the water——from above it or while in it——you may run afoul of some
  laws regarding indecent exposure, but you will not be in violation of any marine
  sanitation law. But urinate or defecate into any piece of equipment installed on the
  boat for that purpose and flush it directly into the water, and you’’re in violation of a
  whole flock of them.
  "Sewage" is the other operative word here, CFR 140.3 defines as sewage as,
  "human body wastes and the waste from toilet and other receptacles intended to
  receive or retain body waste." No matter how sewage may be defined in any other
  context, that is the complete definition of sewage as it pertains to marine
  sanitation. As such, sewage does not include garbage, trash, bath water, galley
  water, food, oil, gasoline or anything else. It is human body waste, period, and
  sewage is the only thing at issue in marine sanitation laws——except on the Great
  Lakes where "gray water" (which is defined as "galley, bath and shower water")
  from commercial vessels only must also be held.
  Coast Guard Certified MSDs defined:
  The Coast Guard defines a Type I Marine Sanitation Device as "a device which treats
  sewage with disinfectant chemicals and by other means before it is discharged into
  the water. The treated discharge must meet certain health standards for bacteria
  content and must not show any visible floating solids. A Type II MSD is also a
  treatment device like the Type I, but it must meet a higher level of sewage
  treatment."
  Well--that certainly clears that up, doesn’’t it?
  What is the difference between a Type I, a Type II, and a Type III? First, let’’s
  remember that we’’re not talking about a toilet——the Coast Guard doesn’’t certify
  toilets, it doesn’’t care what kind you have or how it works——we’’re talking about a
  separate device into which the toilet must flush. A Type I MSD must macerate (a
  macerator is essentially a "blender") to no visible solids——in other words, totally
  liquefy solids and paper, and reduce the bacteria count to less than 1,000 per 100
  milliliters. The discharge from a Type II MSD must contain less than 1,000 parts per
  100 milliliters suspended particulate matter——in other words be almost absolutely
  clear (though not necessarily colorless)——and the bacteria count must be below
  200 per 100 milliliters. A Type III MSD is a holding tank——any holding tank,
  including the holding tank in a portapotty.
  Vessels up to and including 65’’ may use a Type I, II or III; vessels 66’’ and over
  must use a Type II or III. Because a Type II is so much bigger, so much more
  expensive, and draws so much more power than a Type I, you aren’’t likely to see a
  Type II on a vessel smaller than 66 feet.
  How do you know whether your boat is equipped with a Coast Guard approved
  MSD? Obviously, you’’ll know whether you have a Type III if you know whether or
  not the boat has a holding tank All Type I’’s and Type II’’s must have a Coast Guard
  Certification label, affixed by the manufacturer. The label must show the name of
  the manufacturer, the name and model number of the device, the month and year
  of manufacture, the type of MSD, a certification number and a certification
  statement. If there is no label, it isn’’t an approved MSD--with the following
  exception: devices built before the effective date of the Clean Water Act will not
  have a certification label affixed; it didn’’t exist then. If the manufacturer can
  furnish, in writing, a statement that such a device does in fact meet current Coast
  Guard certification standards, that letter will be accepted in lieu of the label. Since
  all Type I and Type II devices are certified in prototype by the manufacturers, no
  device built and installed by any individual will be accepted.
          Allowable use of Types I and II MSDs on
             "Zero Discharge" Bodies of water:
  The second biggest area of confusion in CFR 140.3, and the part that gives rise to
  the most misinformation, pertains to boats built before the effective date of the
  Clean Water Act (The Federal Water Pollution Act of 1980) on zero-discharge
  impoundments. Owners of these boats are convinced they don’’t have to install a
  holding tank because the law says boats built before the effective date may
  continue to use a Type I or Type II MSD. That much is true. The part that gets
  overlooked is that the Type I or Type II must have been installed on the boat before
  that date as well, and must still be operable to Coast Guard standards. In that case,
  it may remain in operation for the life of the device. If such is not the case, the only
  device that can be added to any boat now is a Type III——a holding tank. To further
  add to the confusion, many boat owners believe that macerating electric
  heads——because they macerate and add a little chemical to the sewage as it is
  discharged, are Coast Guard approved Type I MSDs. They are not, and never have
  been. Before marine sanitation became such a hot issue, the Coast Guard did in fact
  waive the Type I discharge standards for boats equipped with macerating electric
  heads, but those days are over for good.
              U.S. Coast Guard Certified MSDs
                       Now available
  Type I MSDs
  The Raritan Lectra/San has been around long enough to be on pre-1978 boats, and
  combines salinity with electrical current to make hypochlorous acid (chlorine) to
  "sanitize" the sewage. Designed for use in salt water, it also can function in brackish
  and fresh water by adding salt to the salt feed tank which is included with each unit.
  List price: around $975.00
  In 1992 Raritan introduced the PuraSan, designed for use in fresh water. Instead of
  making chlorine, flush water passes through a cartridge containing a solid chlorine
  tablet, carrying enough with it to treat to legal overboard discharge standards. List
  price: around $875.
  Both the Lectra/San and the PuraSan treat one flush at a time. Each draws
  approximately 45 amps for about 3 minutes after each flush. Neither has any
  holding capacity, and neither is acceptable for use on "no discharge" waters. Since
  the chlorine is either created or an integral part of the systems, it is not necessary
  to carry any chemicals for use in either system.
  The SeaLand SanX (originally the Mansfield TDX and after 1984 the SeaLand TDX)
  consists of a 10 gallon tank equipped with an internal macerator and a chemical
  pump. It can be plumbed for both pumpout and/or overboard discharge, making it
  both a Type III MSD as well as a Type I, and legal for use in all waters. The toilet is
  plumbed to the SanX tank and sewage is held without treatment until a decision is
  made to either "treat and discharge" or have the tank pumped out. The "treat and
  discharge" mode is manually activated by a switch, so it uses no power except
  during this cycle, which lasts for 20 minutes. It begins by automatically injecting a
  formaldehyde-based chemical called TDX……the macerator mixes the chemical and
  liquefies the tank contents, after which the tank may either be pumped overboard
  automatically by the SeaLand "T-Pump" or by using a manual pump. When used as
  a Type III (pumpout only), it is not necessary to activate the treatment cycle. The
  current list price of the SanX is around $1400; the T-Pump around $275.
  TDX--by brand name--is the only chemical approved for use in the SanX; therefore
  a supply must be carried aboard. It is available only in 1-gallon jugs (list price
  approximately $20); each treatment cycle uses one quart.
  When choosing a Type I device, there are several important considerations: the
  amount of space required, whether that space is located within the manufacturer’’s
  specifications for distance and path of the hoses, the amount of electrical current
  available to power it, and availability of parts and service. Although Galley Maid,
  Groco, and other manufacturers also offer Type I MSDs, these two are by far the
  most widely used, but any Type I MSD can easily be installed by the boat owner in
  most cases.
  Type II MSDs
  The three most well-known manufacturers of Type II MSDs are Galley Maid,
  Microfor, and Humphries. Because Type II systems are considerably more complex
  than Type I systems, and almost always involve multiple head installation, we
  recommend you consult with a qualified factory expert for advice about installing.
  List prices begin at around $5000.
  Type III MSDs
  A Type III MSD is a holding tank. Holding tanks are considered automatically
  certified under a clause in the Coast Guard regulations if they only store sewage and
  flush water at ambient temperatures, and therefore will not have a certification label
  attached. Regrettably, this definition makes it legal, though not advisable, to store
  sewage in any container, whether or not the container is suitable for that use.
                THE MARINE SANITATION SYSTEM
Let’’s look now at equipment, standards for installation, and fact vs.
                         folklore.
  From a standards point of view, it really Is immaterial whether a vessel is equipped
  with a portapotty, a manual pump type head or the most sophisticated electric system
  on the market. The important things are that it be well constructed, easy to maintain
  and fit the expected use of the boat——i.e. it doesn’’t make sense to equip a 50’’
  Hatteras with 5-gallon portapotties any more than it makes sense to install a $3500
  Galley Maid system on a 21’’ cuddy cabin day sailor.
                       The Portapotty
  Portapotties require no plumbing; they may or may not have a reservoir for flush
  water. Bowl contents drain by gravity into a removable tank which is carried off the
  boat and dumped, although some larger models can be fitted for pumpout. Typically
  they hold between two and five gallons. An upgraded version is the SeaLand
  "Marine Traveler," which is a toilet bowl atop its own 9-gallon tank which is fitted
  for pumpout, and uses pressurized water from the onboard system, but very little of
  it. Portapotties are automatically CG Certified Type III MSDs.
                  The Head (Marine Toilet)
  While there appears to be a wide variety of heads (toilets) on the market, in fact
  there are only four types in common use: manual pump electric macerating,
  vacuum, and gravity:
  Manual pump heads are just what the name implies: water is pumped in and the
  combination of water and sewage is pumped out of the bowl manually. Most are
  simple piston rod pumps designed to use "raw" (sea, lake or river) water for
  flushing. Therefore a below-waterline through-hull fitting and seacock are needed to
  install one. They use no current. The amount of flush water used can be controlled
  by the user. Periodic preventive maintenance (discussed later) is necessary. The
  best known are manufactured by Wilcox-Crittendon, Groco, Par, and Raritan. It’’s
  possible to add an electric motor (typically 12v DC current) to some models; the
  motor simply replaces your arm in activating the pump. When "electrifying" a
  manual toilet it’’s important the motor’’s drive shaft be the same length as the
  pump stroke; too short a stroke fails to complete flushing action, which results in
  clogged toilets. The list prices of manual toilets ranges from around $200 to around
  $500. Electric conversions average about $250.
  Electric macerating heads are only a little more complex than a manual head. They
  are typically designed to use raw water. An impeller pump replaces the piston type
  found in manual heads, and there is also a discharge pump. Between the two is a
  device called a macerator that is not totally unlike a blender or a garbage disposal--
  it purees solid waste & paper. Macerating heads require more flush water than any
  other type of toilet——a minimum of 1 gallon to rinse urine completely out of the
  machinery, a minimum of 3 gallons to clear solids and paper. Insufficient flushing
  shortens the life of the motor and macerator, and is the biggest single cause of
  burned out motors. Current draw is around 35 amps. Preventive maintenance is
  necessary. Par and Raritan make the most popular brands. List prices range from
  about $850 to over $1100.
  There is only one electric vacuum head on the market: the SeaLand VacuFlush. It’’s
  an extremely simple head in principle. An electric pump creates a vacuum in the
  system; when the head is flushed (simply step on the pedal) the vacuum pulls the
  bowl contents to its destination: overboard, a CG certified MSD, or a holding tank..
  The VacuFlush is designed to use pressurized fresh water from the onboard system,
  eliminating sea water odor. It uses only 1 -3 pints with each flush, and is the only
  marine toilet designed to receive and hold water for solid waste. Current draw is
  about 6 amps for 45 seconds following each flush. It’’s one of the few toilets which
  requires no preventive maintenance. List prices start at around $1150.
  The only manual vacuum head is the Blake Lavac, made England. After use, the lid
  is closed, forming a seal. A separate manual pump, which must be purchased
  separately (typically a Whale Gusher or something similar), is used to pull in sea
  water and set up a vacuum in the bowl……when the pedal is the depressed the
  sewage is sucked out. Virtually no maintenance or repair is ever needed, and
  therefore it’’s gaining in popularity among passage-making sailors. But distribution
  is very limited in the US and when parts ARE needed, they can be hard to find.
  Prices vary with the model, and the choice of pump.
  A gravity head is exactly what the name implies, and can only be used where it’’s
  possible to position the toilet directly above a holding tank. Although gravity heads
  use very little water, they do require pressurized water. List prices start at under
  $300.
  Although they’’ve never been widely used in the marine industry, re-circulating
  heads , which work exactly as the name implies--by recirculating an initial "charge"
  of water and chemical along with new sewage till the system is full--occasionally do
  show up on boats. Although several manufacturers have offered them in the past,
  Monogram and Thetford are the only manufacturers we know of who currently offer
  recirculating toilets. We do not recommend them; they hold only 5 gallons——no
  more than a portapotty——and odor control is all but impossible. Parts are no longer
  available for older models.
  Although their size and their price make them impractical——if not impossible——for
  use on most boats smaller than 40 feet, there has been so much interest in
  composting toilets that it wouldn’’t be fair not to include them in a list marine
  toilets. Because composting toilets are totally complete self-contained units, they
  are Coast Guard Certified Type III MSDs, can be a very attractive and cost-
  competitive alternative to a new toilet and MSD or holding tank on a houseboat or
  any vessel that has a head compartment large enough to accommodate their size:
  typically a 19" x 23" footprints, plus an additional 25" required to pull out and
  remove the drawer to empty it, and it’’s 29" height (retractable boarding
  step/footrest included). No plumbing is required, although sufficient power (12v or
  115) to continuously run the 3.4 watt fan and evaporating plate in the evaporating
  chamber must be available . The compost is sanitary, identical in every way to
  bagged fertilizer available at garden supply stores. List prices average $1200.
                     Sanitation Hose:
                      Lots of Folklore
  Sanitation hose has long been the subject of a whole lot of debate. A headline in the
  September ‘‘93 issue of Practical Sailor was only one of hundreds over the years to
  trumpet "Hose is the key to odor control!" It’’s a perfect example of the folklore that
  that has been a part of the marine industry forever. Some "experts" insist that
  anything less than double walled hose is unacceptable, some even recommend the
  use of rigid PVC. In fact, the first is an unnecessary expense, the second could be
  the worst thing you could do.
  There have been problems with hose in the past, and there is hose on the market
  today that is totally unsuitable for sewage. It’’s impossible to determine, just by
  looking, whether a particular white flexible PVC hose is suitable for use in sanitation
  systems or not. Out of ignorance, even reputable boat yards have made incredible
  mistakes, even installing corrugated blower hose in the system.
  SeaLand has recently introduced what they claim to be the most odor permeation-
  resistant hose in history——their "Odor Safe" brand. At a list price of over $8/ft, it’’s
  also the most expensive white flexible PVC hose in history. We’’re watching it
  closely before recommending for or against it.
  Only one manufacturer (Trident) warrants its flexible smooth-wall PVC against odor
  permeation for three years. It’’s a little more expensive than some other flexible
  PVC, but it’’s a lot cheaper than double-wall, and no other hose has more than a 1-
  year warranty.
  Hose is indeed often a source——but not the cause——of odor. If sewage stands in
  any hose, it will eventually permeate the material, so if possible, run your hose
  without any low spots where sewage can stand, and always be sure flush the head
  sufficiently to push all the sewage out of the hose and rinse behind it. As part of the
  routine of closing up the boat, close the intake seacock, flush the head dry, then
  pour about a quart of fresh water into the head and flush that through the system
  completely. If limited holding capacity makes extra flushing each time the head is
  used impractical, following this routine when leaving the boat will solve most odor
  problems.
  How do you know whether your hose has permeated? Wrap a hot damp cloth
  around it——preferably at the lowest point in the hose run; leave it there till it
  cools, then smell the cloth. It you cannot smell sewage on the cloth, that section of
  hose is fine. Test all sections——the sea water intake line, the toilet discharge line,
  and the holding tank vent line. All should be plumbed with hose rated for sanitation.
  If there Is clear water hose anywhere, replace it with sanitation hose……if it hasn’’t
  permeated, it’’s only a matter of time.
  As for using rigid PVC——schedule 40 PVC is meant to be buried, not exposed. Yes,
  it’’s used in buildings, but buildings (except in earthquake prone areas) don’’t flex
  and torque; boats do. Just the battering from a heavy wake or a moderate chop
  (much less really rough seas) puts conflicting strains on a hull at anchor. Imagine
  the stresses boats endure in even moderate wind conditions and heavy seas!
  Furthermore, schedule 40 PVC becomes more brittle as the temperature drops. A
  windy winter day in the parts of the country where we leave boats in the water all
  year can cause a boat to bounce around in its slip enough to crack the
  pipe——which you won’’t discover till the first time you use the head in the spring,
  and you don’’t want to deal with that. We recommend against the use of hard pipe
  altogether, but If you must--use only schedule 80 or ABS, and "soft-couple" (use
  hose) all connections to installed devices to reduce stress and shock that can result
  not only in cracked pipe, but damaged fittings and equipment.
  Sanitation hose should be flexible smooth-walled PVC with an ID (inner diameter) of
  1½½" --except for the discharge from a macerator to an overboard through-hull--
  (installed below the waterline, please!) which is typically 1"). Since the standard
  fittings on holding tanks are 1½½", when coming off a macerator to a holding tank,
  it will be necessary to break the hose, using a 1" to 1 ½½" adapter. The standard
  size of the hose from a holding tank to the deck fitting is also 1 ½½" ID.
                 The pump-out deck fitting
  The Coast Guard standard for the deck fitting is 1½½" ID, which is causing some
  confusion. The male hose barbs are all 1½½", but the female threaded connection
  for the pump-out is 1¼¼" NPT on most fittings (although some, especially on boats
  made in Europe, are 1 ½½" NPT). The deck plate should not have a chain linking
  the cap (you can’’t connect a pumpout with a chain in the way), and should be
  clearly marked "Waste." Although the best quality deck plates are cast stainless
  steel with stainless steel caps, I very much favor color coded plastic caps——blue
  for water, red for fuel, black for sewage. For one thing, plastic doesn’’t sink to the
  bottom as fast when dropped overboard, and is less expensive to replace if it does;
  for another, one is far less likely to mistake one deck plate for another.
                       Holding Tanks
                    Still more folklore
  As with all bandwagons, everyone who thinks he can make a dollar off it wants to
  jump on. Consequently, just about anything that will, ever has, or might hold liquid
  till any warranty expires is being offered for sale as a holding tank. It’’s an area of
  the boat where no one wants to spend money——in fact that’’s true of the whole
  sanitation system. Even when boat builders and boat owners aren’’t cutting every
  corner they can, they’’re often using the wrong materials thinking they’’re offering
  something better.
  Although you’’ll see aluminum and stainless holding tanks, no metal of any kind
  should ever used to hold sewage. Urine is the most corrosive material it’’s possible
  to put next to any metal. If you doubt me, gentlemen (ladies will have to take your
  word for it), notice the dividers between urinal stalls in men's rooms. If that facility
  has been open for more than a week, no matter how clean and well-maintained it
  is, even though the dividers are stainless steel coated with enamel you’’ll see rust
  stains from the bolts that attach the dividers to the tile. While the walls of a metal
  holding tank may last a decade or more, the welds will typically begin to leak at a
  seam or a fitting in two to five years, and the tank will have to come out for repair
  or replacement.
  Sailboats especially are often fitted with flexible tanks--also known as bladders. We
  recommend against their use for sewage holding (but not necessarily for water or
  diesel) as well. Bladders are invariably installed in an area of the boat that’’s
  inaccessible to install a rigid tank——stuffed down any opening into a place big
  enough to contain it. And only rarely are the bladders properly secured to prevent
  any movement. Since sailboats are typically so much more "active" than houseboats
  or cruisers, heeling side to side, bladders move and chafe till they leak. Fittings
  must be owner-installed, and because the tank is in an inaccessible place, it is
  almost impossible to install the fittings correctly. Rarely, if ever, is any holding tank
  checked or maintained, and especially since some aren’’t even vented, it isn’’t at all
  uncommon for a bladder to blow out its fittings. Furthermore (for reasons I’’ll
  explain later), it is all but impossible to control odor in a flexible tank. The very
  qualities that make bladders attractive to install make them undesirable for use for
  sewage holding.
  Rotationally molded seamless polyethylene with a minimum wall thickness of ¼¼"
  for the smallest tank is the material of choice. Holding tanks are made from linear,
  not cross-linked (as fuel tanks must be) polyethylene; therefore anything thinner
  than a ¼¼" wall will permeate——and that must increase proportionately with the
  size of the tank walls——i.e., a 30-gallon tank should have a wall thickness of .375.
  Furthermore, if the wall thickness doesn’’t continue to increase with size, the tank
  walls will be too weak to support the 8.333 pounds per gallon that sewage weighs
  (meaning a 40-gallon tank must support 333 pounds); it will bulge and, at the very
  least, distort and create leaks at the fittings--if it doesn’’t actually crack. There are
  poly tanks being sold as holding tanks through most of the marine catalogs which
  have maximum 1/4" walls. People buy them because of price and out of ignorance.
  We recommend against them, and strongly urge that you spend the extra money to
  do it right the first time by installing top quality tank that will last 20 years or
  longer.
                    System Installation
  When installing a system all connections should be double-clamped, only materials
  rated for marine sanitation should ever be used, and any below-waterline through-
  hulls should include a seacock that is easily accessible by the boat owner. There are
  one or two heads on the market which require pressurized water and call for
  tapping into the on-board potable water supply. While some members of the ABYC
  sanitation technical committee feel that allowing the sewage system to have any
  contact with the potable water system presents an unacceptable health hazard,
  there has never been a single reported problem with any toilet designed to use the
  onboard fresh water supply. We recommend installing vented loops in the discharge
  hoses to prevent backflow from establishing a siphon, especially on sailboats, and if
  any part of the system is below the waterline vented loops must be installed.
                        ODOR CONTROL
It really IS possible to have a completely odor-free system!--honest!!!
  You have read or heard, over and over again, that the key to odor control is the
  hose, that hose permeates with sewage and causes the system to stink. That’’s
  folklore. The key to odor control is in the installation of the entire system. What
  very few people in the marine industry have learned is the very nature of sewage
  itself and how it breaks down, what creates odor and what prevents odor from
  forming. Once we understood proven sewage management principles and how to
  apply them to onboard systems, we were able to install systems that are completely
  odor-free and correct the ones that weren’’t. Once you understand it--and it’’s so
  simple!--you can do the same thing.
  There are two ways to deal with holding tank odor: try to reduce it, mask it, and
  contain it after it’’s formed, by using chemicals and filters——which has never
  proven very successful……or prevent odor from forming in the first place by applying
  the same principles that are used to balance and maintain sewage treatment ponds.
  In fact, sewage treatment ponds only stink when they’’ve been unbalanced
  biologically by an overload of chemicals! Here’’s how it works:
  Sewage contains both aerobic (need oxygen to survive and thrive), and anaerobic
  bacteria (thrive in an airless environment); neither can function in the other’’s
  environment. Why is that important? Because only the anaerobic bacteria in sewage
  produce foul-smelling gasses! Aerobic bacteria break sewage down, as does
  anaerobic bacteria--but aerobic bacteria do not generate odor. So as long as there is
  a sufficient supply of air to the tank, and an aerobic bacteria treatment is added to
  aid that which naturally occurs in sewage, the aerobic bacteria thrive and overpower
  the anaerobic bacteria, and the system remains odor free.
  A bio-active (live aerobic bacteria) holding tank treatment such as our own "K.O."
  works with the aerobic bacteria in sewage, eliminating odor, completely emulsifying
  solids & paper, and preventing sludge from forming. Enzymes do little if anything--a
  brief respite from odor immediately after adding them, then odor begins to build
  again. Chemical products only mask odor with another odor, and they kill not only
  odor-causing anaerobic bacteria, but beneficial aerobic bacteria as well--not good,
  because the aerobic bacteria are needed in the system to break down and emulsify
  solids and paper. Chemicals only break them UP and dissolve them into little tiny
  particles that settle to the bottom of the tank, along with chemical residue, to
  become sludge that turns to concrete. Plus, chemicals, unlike bio-active products,
  are also unwelcome in landside sewage treatment facilities, and are especially
  unappreciated by those living and working near them!
  The bacteria in sewage produce a variety of sulfur monoxides and dioxides (which
  are the malodorous gasses), methane--which has no odor but is flammable--and
  carbon dioxide, which also has no odor but creates the environment in which the
  aerobic bacteria cannot live, but the anaerobic bacteria thrive. Carbon dioxide does
  not rise or fall, it is ambient--like the atmosphere. Without a sufficient flow of fresh
  air through the tank to allow it to dissipate, it simply lies like a blanket on top of
  any pool of sewage (whether inside hose or a holding tank) and builds, suffocating
  the aerobic bacteria and creating the perfect environment for the anaerobic bacteria
  to take over. The system literally "turns septic," and the result: a stinking boat……or
  at least foul gasses out the vent line every time the head is flushed.
  To prevent this, let’’s start with the head: the discharge hose, no matter whether it
  goes overboard, to a Type I or II MSD, or to a holding tank, should be installed, if
  at all possible, with no sags or low places where sewage can stand. When a marine
  head is not flushed sufficiently to clear the hose of sewage and rinse the hose
  behind the sewage, that sewage sits in low spots in the hose or bits of it cling to the
  walls of the hose——getting no air, allowing the anaerobic bacteria to thrive and
  produce their stinking gasses. If sewage stands in a low spot which gets no air in
  hose which is susceptible to a high rate of water absorption, it will permeate the
  hose. This is what has given rise to the myth that the "wrong" hose causes odor.
  Therefore, as I’’ve already said, flush your head thoroughly enough to clear the
  entire hose of sewage and rinse behind it. And when you leave your boat to go
  home, flush the head thoroughly one last time, this time with fresh water. Until
  holding tanks came along, the hose was the source of most odor, but incomplete
  flushing was the real cause.
  In the holding tank, the key to odor control is the vent line; it must allow a free
  exchange of fresh air for the carbon dioxide generated by the sewage. Therefore,
  those bladder tanks which have no vent are all but guaranteed to stink; there’’s no
  source of air into them at all. Boat builders, boat owners and boat yard personnel
  who install holding tanks have always viewed the vent line only as a source of
  enough air to allow the tank to be pumped out without collapsing and as an exhaust
  for methane (Many even believe methane--which in fact is odorless--to be the
  source of odor.) Some take the attitude that tanks are going to stink so the thing to
  do is run that vent line as far from people areas——cockpits, sun decks, etc.——as
  possible, or make the line as small as possible, or install a filter in it. All of the
  above actually create the very problem you want to solve.
  Think of the holding tank as a stuffy room which needs to be aired. You know that
  even if there isn’’t a hint of a breeze outside, just opening a window will allow the
  fresh air outside to exchange with stuffy air in the room. Open another window for
  cross-ventilation, and the air exchanges even faster. However, just opening a
  skylight accomplishes nothing unless there’’s also a mechanical means (an "attic
  fan") of pulling the air up and out--and that won’’t work unless another window is
  open to create airflow. But the only "window" into a holding tank is at the end of a
  "hallway"--the vent line. If that "hallway" is too narrow and goes around corners,
  takes a long and curved path, or rises more than 45 degrees above horizontal, no
  ambient air can find its way to the tank to dissipate and exchange itself with the
  gasses in it.
  Vent the tank with as short, as straight, and as horizontal a line as is possible, with
  no sags, no arches, and no bends. The minimum I.D of the hose (which is the
  "standard" size in use today, but for no reason other than being "standard" in fresh
  water and fuel tanks) is 5/8"; we recommend that it be at least ¾¾". Ideally, it
  should be no more than 3’’ long. If it has to be substantially longer, or if running the
  vent line uphill more than 45 degrees off horizontal can’’t be avoided, or if it’’s
  impossible to run a vent line that does not go around a corner, increase the size of
  the vent line to 1" or even larger. If, for instance on a sailboat, the line must go up
  to the deck, install a second vent line in order to create cross ventilation, or install
  some mechanical means of forcing air through the tank. We prefer to put holding
  tanks in the bow of sailboats--under the v-berth--because the hull just behind the
  point of the bow is the only place on the hull except the transom that will never be
  under water even when the boat is at maximum heel; it’’s the perfect place to
  install vent-line through-hulls, because the though-hull is always into the wind,
  forcing air into the vent line, when the boat is underway or on an anchor or
  mooring. The vent through-hull should not be the same type as a fuel vent through-
  hull (a cap with a slit in it), but should be a should be a straight open type through-
  hull.
  On sailboats especially it’’s advisable to vent off the top of the tank and not the
  side, because heeling can cause the contents of a half-full or more tank to run into
  the vent line. Because a filter blocks the flow of air into the tank, install a vent line
  filter only as a last resort; the filter does trap the gasses which try to escape
  through the vent line, but a filter will not stop gasses from forming, and therefore
  from going back up the inlet hose into the boat or up the outlet hose——and
  eventually permeating even the best hose.
  Check the vent line regularly for blockages; little insects love to build nests in them.
  And remember--the vent line is not an "overflow!" So try never to overfill the tank;
  bits of sewage can clog the vent line. Enough air can pass through it to allow the
  tank to be pumped and gasses to escape, but that doesn’’t mean the line is
  completely clear of any blockage.
  Finally, the system, including the tank, should be at least nominally rinsed, through
  the head or back down the deck fill——with fresh or salt water——after each pump-
  out, and occasionally with fresh water. (If your marina doesn’’t have a dock water
  hose for this purpose, please ask them to install one. It should be separate from the
  potable water hose, and the two hoses should never be interchanged.)
  We promise: if you install and maintain your system according to what I’’ve said here,
  you will have NO odor! In fact, you can be standing next to the vent line through-hull
  when the head is flushed --and you won’’t even notice it!
                     FLUSH WITH SUCCESS
       It starts with learning how to flush the head
  Before most of us had reached the ripe old age of three, we thought our "potty
  training" was finished……then we grew up and bought boats. Would you believe that
  most equipment failures in marine sanitation systems happen because most people
  don’’t know how flush them? They stop pumping, or pushing the button, or release
  the pedal the second the bowl is empty, not realizing that a marine toilet——unlike
  the one at home——is a mechanical device that won’’t continue to move the bowl
  content’’s after the pump stops pumping……that it’’s necessary to continue flushing
  a marine toilet to move the contents all the way through the system and rinse the
  hose behind it. So paper and solids get trapped in the pump, macerator, and/or
  discharge line, build up, and lead to a clog. Urine (remember how corrosive it is?)
  rusts the system, cutting the life expectancy of any metal pumps and macerators in
  half……then the owners claim that the brand is "a piece of junk."
  A manual marine toilet has two settings: "flush," which brings flush water in with
  every pump stroke, and "dry," which only pushes the contents out of the bowl and
  on down the line to its destination. Find out how many pumpstrokes it takes to push
  the bowl contents all the way to its destination——holding tank, MSD, or the
  through-hull (when at sea)——and religiously pump it that many times plus two or
  three more to rinse the hose. "But I don’’t want to fill up my holding tank with flush
  water!" you cry. When holding tank space is at a premium, the default setting for
  the head should be "dry." After urination only, pump that all the way to the tank,
  then turn the lever or knob to "flush" for only two or three pumpstrokes to rinse
  behind it, and back to "dry" to send that all the way to the tank. Since no manual
  head is designed to hold water, put a cupful or two (as much as you think
  appropriate) of water from the sink in the head before depositing solids and more
  than a sheet or two of paper……and then follow the same procedure.
  Never put anything into a marine sanitation system that isn’’t specifically marketed
  for that purpose. Do not use detergent, bleach, dish soap or other cleaners--
  especially cleaning products which contain pine oil, petroleum, or alcohol. Those
  substances will break down the seals, gaskets, and valves in the system, and will
  also break down the walls of the hose, causing it to be more susceptible to
  permeation. Above all, do not ever——as some people tell me they do——pour
  vegetable oil down the head to "lubricate" the parts; you wouldn’’t put vegetable oil
  in your engine--why would you put it in your head? A layer of oil on the sewage will
  only seal the contents of the tank, keeping air out of it--and we already know what
  that causes! It will also combine with the animal fats present in sewage to "gum up"
  your MSD. Follow manufacturers’’ recommendations for periodic head maintenance
  and lubrication——which usually involves taking something apart.
  At least once every two years, put a complete rebuild kit in your head as part of
  your regular spring recommissioning; if you lay your boat up every winter, we
  recommend doing it every year. When seals, gaskets, valves and impellers dry out
  they become brittle and prone to crack. By replacing them regularly you all but
  eliminate the possibility that you’’ll have to make emergency repairs to the head--
  and we all know those emergencies only happen at the worst possible times--and
  you control the conditions under which you’’ll take the head apart. Although it’’s
  impossible to predict someone putting something in the head that’’s too large to
  pass through, a well-sealed pump that’’s working to factory specifications can often
  push a borderline object through that a worn system can’’t.
  Although some boat owners follow the rule, "nothing goes into the head that hasn’’t
  been eaten first," marine toilet paper is designed to virtually dissolve in your hand.
  (The cheapest "no-name" single-ply paper at the grocery store is the same thing as
  "marine" toilet paper, and it’’s a whole lot cheaper!) Just don’’t put anything else in
  the head.
  Like most companies, we're in business for fun and PROFIT - So whether you're
  starting from scratch, upgrading, replacing, looking for a hard-to-find part, or just
  need some trouble-shooting advice, we're here to help and we'd love to hear from
  you. So please feel free to e-mail or call.
                        Peggie Hall
                       The Hall Group
                  5319 Littlebrooke Court
                     Atlanta, GA 30338
                    Phone: 770-394-3061
                     Fax: 770-392-1935
               e-mail: peghall@bellsouth.net
  And now for a brief commercial……
  I'm proud to present the Raritan Peal Products family of marine sanitation and
  cleaning products:
  K.O. Kills Odor! In marine and RV holding tanks
  K.O. IS NOT A CHEMICAL PRODUCT. Unlike chemical products which only mask
  odor, K.O. utilizes live odor-killing bacteria which digest liquid and solid waste and
  paper, totally emulsifying them so there's no need to add "tissue digesters" or other
  "boosters" to your system. The bacteria in K.O. actually neutralize the odor-causing
  elements in waste, effectively converting the contents of your holding tank to an
  odor-free product.
  K.O. IS MORE EFFECTIVE THAN ANY CHEMICAL OR ENZYME PRODUCT. Chemicals
  only mask odor temporarily. Although they kill odor-causing bacteria, chemicals also
  kill other bacteria that suppress odor. Chemicals can actually cause the odor
  problems you’’re trying to solve! Enzymes stimulate the breakdown of waste already
  in the tank, but are not effective against odor, and can do nothing to new waste as
  it's added. The live bacteria in K.O. continually multiply, strengthening and aiding
  the odor-eliminating bacteria, and breaking down the waste (they're even more
  aggressive in hot weather when chemicals are the weakest). 4 oz. per 25 gallon
  tank capacity is all you need, and there's seldom any need to add K.O. between
  pump-outs or need to pump out until the tank is full (even if you’’re away from your
  boat for a while), making K.O. less expensive to use than lower-priced products.
  And--unlike chemicals--the discharge from tanks treated with K.O. is welcome in
  on-shore sewer & septic tank systems.
  K.O. CANNOT BE COMBINED WITH ANY OTHER HOLDING TANK TREATMENT.
  Chemicals work by killing bacteria--including the bacteria in K.O. Because we don't
  know what every product contains, we take no chances.
  K.O. IS SAFE FOR USE IN ANY SYSTEM.
  K.O. eliminates any organically caused odor. Use it to treat pet accident sites,
  musty cushions and lockers, etc. Will not harm any colorfast fabric. (Not a stain
  remover.)
  C.P. Cleans Potties!
  C.P. IS THE ONLY BOWL CLEANER THAT CAN BE COMBINED WITH K.O. Other toilet
  bowl cleaners use chemicals. Because C.P. is a bioactive cleaner that uses no
  chemicals, it won't kill the bacteria in K.O.
  C.P. IS LIKE NO OTHER TOILET BOWL CLEANER. It's the first bowl cleaner to
  combine a specialized strain of bacteria with biodegradable cleaning agents
  specifically designed to make the bowl shine like never before and the entire system
  odor-free, while maintaining the bioactive environment essential to odor control in
  your holding tank.
  C.P. DESTROYS ODORS ON CONTACT AS IT CLEANS. Just squirt a little under the
  rim; stains, soil, and odor --even the worst raw water odors from the intake line--
  just disappear, usually without even mopping or brushing. C.P. eliminates the need
  to use bleach and other toxic chemicals to sanitize your head. That's important,
  whether your hold your waste or discharge it overboard.
  B.C Cleans Bilges!
  (It’’s highly rated by Practical Sailor and Powerboat Reports)
  B.C. LEAVES YOUR BILGE AS CLEAN AND AS CLEAN-SMELLING AS WHEN YOUR
  BOAT WAS NEW. There’’s more than oil and grease in a dirty bilge——dirt, sea
  micro-organisms, molds, fungus……B.C. not only emulsifies oil, grease, dirt and
  sludge better than any competing bilge cleaner, its detergents clean your bilge
  better than any household, commercial or industrial cleaner, removing the sour
  odors that can permeate your boat AND their sources.. Since B.C. has no odor of its
  own, all you smell is "clean."
  B.C. CLEANS ENGINES TOO! The dirtiest engines and engine parts come clean as
  new with just a spray and a wipe or a few minute's soak in B.C. & water.
  B.C. is 95% biodegradable, and unlike some bilge cleaners, is safe to use on any
  colorfast surface or material. It won't harm gelcoat, fiberglass, wood, varnish,
  aluminum, vinyl, plastic, steel, and most paints.
            PRICE: 22-oz. $8.95 1-gallon $19.95
  C.U. Cleans Up! (Everything!)
  And it does it so well that Practical Sailor and Powerboat Reports rated it #1 over 26
  competing products!)
  C.U. CLEANS UP EVERYTHING--EVEN BIRD & SPIDER DROPPINGS! Dirt, grime,
  exhaust stains, that impossible black streak at the water line, and yes--even spider
  droppings!--on decks, hulls, canvas, sails, upholstery, deck furniture--even fenders
  & power cords--come shining clean with a minimum of effort. Unlike other cleaners,
  C.U. will not harden vinyl.
  C.U. REMOVES MILDEW, We won't promise it will take all the stain out of every
  fabric, but C.U. will remove more mildew stain than anything except bleach, and it
  will completely remove mildew from all non-fabric surfaces--and C.U., unlike
  cleaners which contain phosphates, retards its return.
  Yet C.U. is 95% biodegradable, and safe to use on any colorfast surface or material-
  -including varnish, most paints, fabrics, and aluminum.
  (Although we guarantee C.U. will outperform any other cleaner on the market, no
  product will completely remove every stain from any material.)