Observations from Fuel Starvation issue and fix.

[Patches]

I took this past weekend to replace the primary and secondary fuel filters on my 1990 Mark 1.25.  This followed a recent replacement of scupper hoses and the 17' exhaust hose which looked original.  In the case of the scupper hoses, one was actually cracked and leaking.

After changing out the primary and secondary filters, and the Facet fuel pump filter, I started the engine.  It fired right away and ran well for about 10 minutes at the dock, then suffered symptoms of fuel starvation and died.  It would not restart.

Because I had just changed the filters, I was stumped.  I put in a new fuel tank in 2019, and run the boat often as a charter boat.  So I didn't think it was a problem at the tank.  Because I'm lucky enough to be a member of this forum, I came back and searched around before finding Stu's excellent post on the "obscure check ball valve."  I decided to look at that, which requires removing the original Racor 220R filter housing, and draining out all the diesel from the bowl I had just filled up.

What I quickly discovered was that my (likely) original 3/8" fuel lines had lost most of their flexibility, and were nearly welded to the fittings on the filter housing and fuel pump.  After removing hose clamps, I ended up having to cut the hoses with a hose cutter close to the end of the barb, then use a utility knife to cut through the stub remaining on the barb to remove them.  Many curses.

The check valve on the Racor housing had minor debris, and didn't really look problematic.  But since I had it out, I removed the barb fittings and hit them with carburetor cleaner.  One of them definitely had some crud lodged in the elbow.  And some more gunk came out of the top of the housing after more spraying with carb cleaner. 

Because I had to cut out the old fuel hose in pieces (which I recommend), I then had to install the new hoses.  It isn't hard from the engine to fuel pump under the head sink.  But it is harder to route the new fuel line from the tank, under the sink secured with zip ties, and back down and around to the inlet port on the Racor.

Two things make this job much easier:

1. Remove the access door under the head sink.

2. Remove the sink.

On my boat, the sink is only secured to the counter with a big splooge of silicone caulk.  Using a 1 1/2" chisel (beveled side down) and a few taps with a rubber tipped hammer, you can raise the lip enough to get a thin metal putty knife underneath.  I then worked it around underneath the perimeter and soon the bowl popped off.

With the sink out, it is easier to lead the new fuel hose and wire to the Facet pump, and mount them to the underside of the sink counter.

After reconnecting all the new hoses and the cleaned out Racor filter housing, I opened the valve at the fuel tank and opened the knurled knob.  It fired and ran for 20 minutes.  Closed the knurled knob, and everything appears back to normal.

What I then learned is that the 3/4" plastic "funnel" down tube at the bottom of my head sink had been crushed due to over tightening of the hose clamp on the drain hose.  If you have an original head sink on your Mark 1, the sink drain is "custom" to that original sink, and so is the drain assembly that goes in it. About the only part that is not custom to the drain assembly is the plastic "funnel barb" which attaches with a nut to the bottom--and which I needed to replace.  And the only manufacturer to offer that particular part is: Seadog "polyethylene sink funnel drain", part no. 517336-1.  Cost:  $3.  The Forespar SW5 won't fit, and neither will the Ambassador Marine counterpart.

The alternatives are to buy (1) a new sink and updated drain assembly ($120+) or (2) a replacement "custom" drain assembly to fit our unique head sink drains ($70) from Catalina Direct.

Patches

[Ron Hill]

Patches : I've replaced the fuel hoses twice since the boat was launched back in Sept 1988.  To gain easier access for running the new fuel lines, I only remove the head sink drain hose.  Later I found out the the "tail piece" to the sink was unique when I change the hose size from 3/4" to 1" (so it would drain faster - which it DID NOT!!)  Don't remember what I did to fix that tail piece?!?

I hope that the harden fuel hose from the tank alerted you to the fact that the same thing was happening to your 1/4" fuel return line back to the tank!!

As an aside, you are lucky that you did everything correct in changing 2 filters, taking apart the fuel pump and taking apart the Racor filter.  Then having everything be OK. I've always recommended doing those tasks one at a time and extensively running the engine in-between.  That way if you have a problem (engine quits/won't run) you know which item to suspect!!  I salute you for putting every thing back together CORRECTLY!!   

A few thoughts

[Patches]

Good point on the return line.  As part of this process, I actually trimmed my return line (which seemed overly long) so I was able to get more flexible tube mounted at either end.  I also noticed the return line is 1/4" vs. 3/8".