traveler holes and spring pulpit block

[KWKloeber]

Just as one ref point here's where the sliding block sits on my Nicro-Fico, in the next hole away from the end cap (I don't know it it's the same on the 34.) 
I'm unsure how deep my flathead bolts are recessed into the track holes.  But they are deep enough so that the keeper bolt on the slide will go into the recess and hold it securely.  I rebed the track 20+ yrs ago and know that there are thru-riser/deck bolts where I indicate in red.

[Ron Hill]

Beckie : I have run my furling line OUTSIDE the stanchions except for the one last one before the Drum. 
You have to play with the height of that last one so you get the line furling as evenly as possible on to the drum.  You don't want the line to bunch on top of itself.  That's why you play with the height - to get that correct angle.

Start with about 90 degrees!!

A thought   

[Stu Jackson]

1.   Stu, i bought a spring loaded block and I'll put it on the pulpit like you have when i comes.

2.  can i send you a picture of my traveler?  Ken K thought you had the same Nico Fico to see what the scoop is with the my screws sticking out, 3 on each side?  thanks

1.  becki, good idea.  Just to be clear, the location of that first block, as mentioned, is critical.  This is the same block I had when I bought the boat with an old CDI furler.  When I installed the new ProFurl system, I had to MOVE THE BLOCK, to assure that it was at 90 degrees from the drum.  IIRC, it was below the lower rail on the pulpit back in the old days.

2.  I never had a Nicro system, don't know what gave him that idea.  I have always had a Garhauer system.  What I did do, with the late Guido's help, was to upgrade the sheave system and have the cam cleat replaced with rollers running the traveler lines through bullet holes through my dodger instead of slits and placed the cam cleats on the coachroof.

[KWKloeber]

becki/stu

The pic I remembered seeing (the bolt fix,) I thought, looked like your track, becki.  Obviously not, my mistake!



The key is, and it's difficult to diagnose/explain not hands on and 480 mi away, there needs to be a hole for the keeper bolt to sit down into.  I don't think it needs to be full-depth, just deep enough to tighten the keeper bolt down above the flat head and securely hold the slide from moving on the track.  Obviously I can't see how the bolt is underneath the slide in my picture:



Maybe if you countersink a hole further so that a flat-head bolt sits lower in the track?

Alternately I would drill a hole in between the 1st and 2nd flat-head bolt holes -- just deep enough for the keeper bolt to sit into.  That would be my solution unless (hands on) I saw a reason not to do that.

[Stu Jackson]

Ken, the bolts in my picture that you republished (thanks) are simply countersunk heads.  No flatheads anywhere except the end caps and sheaves.  That's why the car glides over them in their not-sunken non-groove.

[KWKloeber]

Ken, the bolts in my picture that you republished (thanks) are simply countersunk heads.  No flatheads anywhere except the end caps and sheaves.  That's why the car glides over them in their not-sunken non-groove.

I believe they're Philips-drive flathead bolts (or more properly "machine screws" but I didn't want to confuse things.)   That's why the car glides over them sitting down in the countersink?

As you said past Feb: "My records show that I used the same "1/4-20 X 9 inch long flat head SS screw" from Catalina." 

I dunno what's on your sheaves -- the GhM sheaves I retrofitted to my Nicro traveler are assembled w/ "hex head capscrews."