2 questions, does your traveler, from Guido (RIP) from Gaurhauer, does it slide all the way to the edges? I rebed mine (it's cabin top, i'm 1986 hull #99) and someone sailing my boat said the traveler should, well, travel, the whole length of the cabin top riser, but when I rebed it, I have 3 filled in screw holes, on each side, keeping the traveler from going all the way to the edge. I don't race my boat but I can't see how water wouldn't get into the traveler /cabin top if the screws were out. what am i missing?
secondly, the roller furler line on my harken drum was too tight against the inside/underside of the drum, and rubbing against the line. I loosened it, which seemed to help the chafing but i was thinking of re-running it out of the drum to a spring loaded pulpit block (that I don't yet have), connected on the starboard pulpit. anyone else done this before? i want to lower (and control) the line coming out of the drum.
thanks
becki in detroit
Becki
Pictures would really help.
I think most have a lead block relatively close close to their drum. I do. To where does the line lead? Through what/where?
There should be pics around (installed) of the GhM traveler. Isn't these a stop at either end, separate from any other thru bolts? Picture of what bolts you have? Not recessed flat heads?
-k
the lead line just goes straight down to a block on the deck, this would be a block to direct it to the pulpit then down
I'll take pictures of the traveler when i get back to the boat wed. and yes, it's 3 recessed screws on each side. maybe i just need to screw them farther down.
How far back is the deck block? A stand-up block?
Is it a spinnaker pole downhaul block, perhaps, not placed correctly for the furling line?
It's typical to have the drum exit cocked toward the pulpit where there's a lead block, and the line runs aft - not facing directly along centerline. At least that's how I've seen most, not saying that's correct or incorrect on the C34.
I'm sure that I've seen pictures of the path on here from members asking about furler/drum questions.
I thought you raced? Given up?
I don't have anything spinnaker except a halyard. no pole, no sail.
I do race, just not my own boat because I don't have all the hardware. thanks
I have a Profurl not Harken but this is how mine is lead.
yeah i don't have that top block. that's what i think i need but that looks a lot less expensive than a $100 spring block. did you put that on yourself? and thanks
Not much cheaper. I believe this is what I used:
https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=91_112&products_id=3863
$20 is still 1/5 of a boat buck :-). thanks!
Noah.
Maybe an optical contusion? You block looks higher than a perpendicular line drawn from the center of the drum?
Optical illusion. The pulpit block is square to center of drum. Next is a stanchion block that is at an approx. 10-15 degree angle lower, then two more stanchion blocks at deck level. All works well.
Beckie : The furling line that leads into the drum should have the line feed in at a 90 degree angle to the drum!!! You need to set that last bow block for the furling line to where the line feeds into the drum at that 90 degrees!! That might be up like Noahs' or low like mine!!
A few thoughts
Quote from: Noah on September 06, 2021, 02:41:34 PM
Optical illusion. The pulpit block is square to center of drum. Next is a stanchion block that is at an approx. 10-15 degree angle lower, then two more stanchion blocks at deck level. All works well.
Gotcha. The angle of the dangle and height of the pulpit (compared to the drum) must be misleading.
The top rail of my pulpit is pretty level and drum sits below the pointy end of it, so my lead block has to be down below the top rail (in order to be 90 to the forestay angle.)
Here's mine. I also ran the furling line through Johnson bullet blocks on the outside of the stanchions.
Stu, i bought a spring loaded block and I'll put it on the pulpit like you have when i comes.
can i send you a picture of my traveler? Ken K thought you had the same Nico Fico to see what the scoop is with the my screws sticking out, 3 on each side? thanks
Just as one ref point here's where the sliding block sits on my Nicro-Fico, in the next hole away from the end cap (I don't know it it's the same on the 34.)
I'm unsure how deep my flathead bolts are recessed into the track holes. But they are deep enough so that the keeper bolt on the slide will go into the recess and hold it securely. I rebed the track 20+ yrs ago and know that there are thru-riser/deck bolts where I indicate in red.
Beckie : I have run my furling line OUTSIDE the stanchions except for the one last one before the Drum.
You have to play with the height of that last one so you get the line furling as evenly as possible on to the drum. You don't want the line to bunch on top of itself. That's why you play with the height - to get that correct angle.
Start with about 90 degrees!!
A thought
Quote from: anaisdog on September 10, 2021, 06:29:44 AM
1. Stu, i bought a spring loaded block and I'll put it on the pulpit like you have when i comes.
2. can i send you a picture of my traveler? Ken K thought you had the same Nico Fico to see what the scoop is with the my screws sticking out, 3 on each side? thanks
1. becki, good idea. Just to be clear, the location of that first block, as mentioned, is critical. This is the same block I had when I bought the boat with an old CDI furler. When I installed the new ProFurl system, I had to MOVE THE BLOCK, to assure that it was at 90 degrees from the drum. IIRC, it was below the lower rail on the pulpit back in the old days.
2. I never had a Nicro system, don't know what gave him that idea. I have always had a Garhauer system. What I did do, with the late Guido's help, was to upgrade the sheave system and have the cam cleat replaced with rollers running the traveler lines through bullet holes through my dodger instead of slits and placed the cam cleats on the coachroof.
becki/stu
The pic I remembered seeing (the bolt fix,) I thought, looked like your track, becki. Obviously not, my mistake!
(https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5071.0;attach=11576;image)
The key is, and it's difficult to diagnose/explain not hands on and 480 mi away, there needs to be a hole for the keeper bolt to sit down into. I don't think it needs to be full-depth, just deep enough to tighten the keeper bolt down above the flat head and securely hold the slide from moving on the track. Obviously I can't see how the bolt is underneath the slide in my picture:
(https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=11172.0;attach=12348;image)
Maybe if you countersink a hole further so that a flat-head bolt sits lower in the track?
Alternately I would drill a hole in between the 1st and 2nd flat-head bolt holes -- just deep enough for the keeper bolt to sit into. That would be my solution unless (hands on) I saw a reason not to do that.
Ken, the bolts in my picture that you republished (thanks) are simply countersunk heads. No flatheads anywhere except the end caps and sheaves. That's why the car glides over them in their not-sunken non-groove.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on September 10, 2021, 08:32:04 PM
Ken, the bolts in my picture that you republished (thanks) are simply countersunk heads. No flatheads anywhere except the end caps and sheaves. That's why the car glides over them in their not-sunken non-groove.
I believe they're Philips-drive flathead bolts (or more properly "machine screws" but I didn't want to confuse things.) That's why the car glides over them sitting down in the countersink?
As you said past Feb: "
My records show that I used the same "1/4-20 X 9 inch long flat head SS screw" from Catalina."
I dunno what's on your sheaves -- the GhM sheaves I retrofitted to my Nicro traveler are assembled w/ "hex head capscrews."