Vberth chase trim

[ErikN]

A couple of weeks ago we were sailing through some choppy water and the trim under the chases on each side of the vberth fell off. (The equivalent piece in the quarterberth fell off a while ago.) Now that we are back in the marina, I'd like to re-install them. It looks like there are a few pieces of wood glued into the chase, then the trim is attached to the the wood with screws (see attached photo), leaving room for wires up to the running lights on the bow pulpit.

Has anyone dealt with this before? I'm thinking I should just scrape off the old glue and re-glue the wood blocks back in place, but I'm open to suggestions, upgrades, etc. I couldn't find anything by searching the website, but I'm probably not using the correct terms.

I would appreciate any thoughts,
Erik

[mark_53]

I have the same problem in my aft berth.  I haven't bothered to repair but when I do, I'd probably use an epoxy like JB Weld.

[KWKloeber]

Erik

If you're into doing any/have the materials on hand, epoxy resin with microfibers thickener would be my choice, but Gorilla Glue would also suffice.  Scrape off/sand flat any remaining glue, leave the surfaces with a 100 grit sanding to provide some bite for the adhesive.

[Stu Jackson]

.........

1.  It looks like there are a few pieces of wood glued into the chase, then the trim is attached to the the wood with screws (see attached photo), leaving room for wires up to the running lights on the bow pulpit.

2.   I'm thinking I should just scrape off the old glue and re-glue the wood blocks back in place, but I'm open to suggestions, upgrades, etc.

Erik,

1.  That's right.

2.  Yes.  No need to get exotic with epoxies.  Use some wood glue.

Reason you couldn't find anything was I don't recall anyone ever mentioning it before. 

[Noah]

Thickened epoxy with a screw up from below into the deck to hold it until cured. Make sure underside is sanded/roughed-up then clean with acetone for good bond.

[Jon W]

I had one come loose while I was running some wires. I removed the old adhesive, then wipe the fiberglass with acetone, put some 5200 on the wood block, pressed the wood block in place and held it there with tape until cured. Has been fine since. Don't forget to either align the hole in the wood block with the screw hole in the trim, or rotate the wood block and match drill a new hole.

[KWKloeber]

Why are we discussing adhering the block to the fiberglass?  That isn't the issue, the mounting screws solve that.  The trim needs to be adhered to the block, after that it's a cake-walk.

Careful — the old glue seals the wood pores, so an ole standby like Elmer's glue doesn't work.  You need an adhesive that doesn't depend on penetrating into the wood.  You can't use any old "wood glue" just like you can't use it to glue bare wood to varnished wood.  You need a urethane based glue such as Gorilla (or 5200 or epoxy.)

[Ron Hill]

Erik : You are right on!!  Just get some epoxy to put those strips back in place. Be sure to Sand the old glue off the strips and interior hull surface.

While you have the post side strip off you might want to run some 12V DC power up into the anchor well.  Just wire it to a waterproof receptacle.  I've powered a number of items from there!!  The handiest is for a spot light for coming into an anchorage at night (got caught) and avoiding crab/lobster pots!!  Someone can be up front scanning and lighting the area while you motor in.   

A few thoughts 

[Noah]

Funny this came up today as I have just finished cutting down in size and reattaching with screw and epoxy one in my V-berth after I had to make it smaller to enlarge space to run 1/0 cable for my new windlass.

[Jon W]

I'm talking about it because I wouldn't use screws.

[ErikN]

On my boat the wood blocks are/were glued to the underside of the deck--no screws holding them in place. The trim is screwed to the wood blocks--no glue--which leaves them removable in case I need to access the wires in the chase. I think this makes sense...

I'm planning to offset the blocks by about 1/2" and drill new holes, because some of the screws pulled out of the original holes in the wood. I like the idea of making the blocks narrower to leave more room for larger wires (we're thinking of installing a windlass someday, maybe).

I didn't think this would generate much discussion--I appreciate the suggestions!

Erik

[Jon W]

Erik, my boat is the same as yours. Narrower wood blocks are a good idea, and do not glue the trim to the wood block. Someday you will want to get access into that area if not for a windlass, for a fan, a light, or who knows.

[KWKloeber]

Jon

I see what you mean with your blocks. Certainly the way to go. But aren't we talking about two different animals, looking at Erik's picture (trim on the shelf, not against the underdeck)?  Or am I misinterpreting Erik's picture?

Why I "always" use epoxy/microfibers (adhesive rather than structural additive) is that one can bond a cleat in place simply by holding an item in place (no fastener or clamping) using fast hardener, and reassembly is shorter than waiting for 5200 to cure. Of course if one has the time to wait then sure no big difference.

[Noah]

Not sure what your mean about not using screws. I epoxied the wood block to underside of the deck and used one countersunk screw to "clamp" it in place while epoxy cured/kicked. That way I didn't have to wait to close it up and move on.

[ErikN]

I see what you mean with your blocks. Certainly the way to go. But aren't we talking about two different animals, looking at Erik's picture (trim on the shelf, not against the underdeck)?  Or am I misinterpreting Erik's picture?

In my picture, the trim is on the shelf only because it fell from the underdeck. I think that may be the source of confusion.
Erik