Alignment process with new PSS shaft seal

[Patches]

I just installed my new SS prop shaft, split coupler, and PSS shaft seal while out of the water.  I'm getting splashed on Monday.

[Note: new shaft slid in with cutless bearing removed.  BUT, my boat definitely prefers sliding in/out on the PORT side of the rudder.  STARBOARD was too tight, so we switched sides and, voila, super easy.  Those tackling this in the future should definitely check for a preferred side of the rudder for shaft extraction/replacement.  In my case it made a huge difference!]

Anyway, I got the coupler on, torqued pinch bolts to spec, reattached the coupler to the transmission.  Installed the new PSS,  compressed bellows, and installed the first set of set screws in the stainless rotor.  I'm intending to align once the boat has sat in the water 24 hours, which (I understand) is where you should check/do engine alignment.  I've never done this, but am having a shipwright help do this. 

He tells me that to properly align the engine, he has to detach the coupler and push the shaft back some distance while he makes adjustments to the motor mounts.  But to splash, back out of the slings, and motor over to the overnight slip I need the drive train and the PSS functional overnight until the alignment work starts. 

This means the new SS rotor set screws have to be backed out to allow the shaft to be pushed back and the rotor repositioned.  So I guess that means I just used up 2 of the 5 new set screws that were provided for installation--at least I can't re-use them against the shaft as the tips will have "cupped" making them unsuitable for re-use.  I think I can re-use them as the outer stacked set screws.  I have a stainless retention collar I will use to keep the rotor compressed on the bellows while this work occurs.

Anyway, how have others done alignment in the water with a PSS shaft seal?  Is there a specific process?  My apologies in advance if I'm completely missing something, as I've never attempted engine alignment before, let alone with a PSS shaft seal.

Patches   

[Robert Mann]

Patches, when I have aligned my drive line, with a PSS, I disconnected the bolts between transmission and shaft half couplings. There should be enough spring in the PSS to move it back slightly to compensate for any drag on the coupling pilot diameter.  Plus if you rotate the shaft before re-bolting it I would expect everything to find center. I can get mine within 003". I would not take risks with the PSS set screws.  If you decide to break them loose, get new ones, as they have Locktite on them.  I view those as "safety bolts" and any time they are moved they need replacement.  I don't know about your boat, but on my Mk II removing the cabinetry that is in the rear cabin, over the transmission, improves the "enjoyment factor" of engine alignment by leaps and bounds.  I can actually get to both rear engine mounts. (plus on the Mk II removing it enables the transmission to be drained more easily). FYI, the lower nut on my engine mounts, required for raising and lower the engine during alignment, requires a 15/16" open ended wrench, an adjustable would not fit between the mount and the engine foot.

As Ron says, just a collection of thoughts!

[Jim Lucas]

Not wanting to hi-jack this thread but, on the same general topic, I had a PSS shaft seal installed on my boat a year or so ago. The PSS looks properly adjusted and dry but every once in a while when under power (usually after a longer sail), I get a fairly loud squeal that goes away with a few more revs. It's there sometimes and not others so I've been trying locate and correct the source. I wonder if it could be an alignment issue...?

[Analgesic]

Jim, I replaced my bellows a couple of years ago.  Unfortunately, I didn't replace the old generation black carbon face with the new version that includes a vent hose for air to escape.  When I get the squeal, I find the whole set up is steaming hot.  I need to wear gloves to burp it, the new water sizzles but the squeal goes away immediately.  I have concluded that air bubbles rise up the log shaft until a critical amount of air displaces the lubricating water.   It is likely to occur on busy weekends when I cross the wakes of big stinkpotters frequently.  This Winter I bit the bullet and ordered the newer version of the carbon face and hopefully that's the end of it. 

[waughoo]

Unfortunately, I didn't replace the old generation black carbon face with the new version that includes a vent hose for air to escape.

Ahha!!!  I have been trying to sort out which dripless i have and this likely solves the riddle.  My boat has what LOOKS to be a PYI but there is no vent tube. I had not been able to find any documentation that indicated there was any past versions without a vent.  Thanks for posting this message.  My mystery is now solved.

[Patches]

Jim:

I bought the new version of the PSS with the vent on top of the carbon face.  Before slashing, I plumbed it to a Taco  Hy-Vent air release valve (recommended by Rodd) which I mounted under the head sink, as high as I could, against the fiberglass pan and closer to the fuel tank.  I used some adhesive to glue a small piece of wood in that location, and then used some "U" clamps to secure the hose just below the Hy-vent.

When I splashed, I burped the PSS bellows just in case.  After being in the water for 24 hours, I had the engine and drive shaft aligned by the same guy who did the new prop shaft (and fit and faced the new coupling). He moved the SS rotor forward to do the alignment, which meant removing/loosening the set screws in the rotor, and against the new shaft. Because these were now deformed,  I put in new set screws against the shaft, and swapped the ones that were there initially to be the outer/stacked set.  I added a PYI shaft retention collar forward of the rotor for good measure

I then motored for 7 hours back to Bainbridge Island against an adverse tide and building southerly.  No squeals, no issues, no drips.  So far very please with the new PSS.  Not sure why your new PSS would be squealing if it is properly lubricated with sea water and vented.

Patches

[waughoo]

Clever solution on the Hi-vent.  I will have to keep that in mind.