Alternator Bracket Mod

[Catalina007]

Exciting update!  After several weeks of soaking and derusting the above horrible looking  nuts came of fairly easily.
It gives me hope the threads at the head are not frozen.

Now,   what  next?

Double nutting?

Vise grip and turn? (Will destroy threads, so should try double nut first?)
     
Hoping this can happen without removing the manifold

Not sure what I can do to improve my chances on the studs turning before putting a wrench on them and hoping for the best 

[KWKloeber]

Several rounds of heating the studs with a pencil torch and cooling might help break free the bond if they don't budge at first try. The heat will travel down the studs to the block.

(The method to remove was already covered below.)

[Catalina007]

curious  why a butane pencil torch?

Would a propane torch work just as well?

although the pencil torch looks like a handy tool for heat shrink terminals.

[KWKloeber]

(Just a pencil flame, no matter the source, so you're not overly heating the manifold.)

[Catalina007]

Just curious -  the original studs on my engine have a washer, nut, and then about 4 threads still exposed.
So I have enough room to double nut with a lock washer in between.
Made me wonder if my current studs are already long enough to take the new bracket, lock washer, and a nut.
Ive heard there engines with short original studs which defintely need changing, and some originals slightly longer that may not  (maybe what i have?)
Any idea?
     

[Noah]

Get the new bracket and see.

[Ron Hill]

Cat007 : If you have 4 threads showing forget about a double nut - then I'd uses an all metal self locking nut!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

Ron
What is an all metal self-locking nut and how will that remove the stud?
[edit] I think you're mixing up removing the stud and installing the bracket.

007 - you said you got one stud loose, no?

4 threads doesn't sound like much - what thread are the studs (pitch)? 
You could also torque up the nut then hit it with a center punch (the olde tymer's way of making a lock nut).
Or locktite is another option.

[Catalina007]

Get the new bracket and see.

Yes the bracket is coming I was just curious I don't know how thick it is.
It will go on one way or another.
I've loosened up one stud I'm hopeful that means the other 3 will
not be a problem. (Said with a prayer)

[KWKloeber]

If it makes a difference in you going forward I have a used bracket that I can locate and measure the thickness tomorrow. Or right now if it's critical to know.

[Catalina007]

Thanks but no need. It will go forward either way I was just curious.

[Ron Hill]

Ken : There are two kind of self locking nuts. The most common uses a nylon band in the top - the other is all metal with slits at the top which is slightly crimped.  Both types are thicker than a common nut. 

So if you have threads showing after tightening, it might be better to use a self locking nut rather than a lock washer. If the nut is on a stud that might transmit a lot of heat - you are better to use an all metal rather than nylon self locking. (clear as mud?)  The all metal SL nuts are commonly used in aircraft all the time!

A few thoughts 

[KWKloeber]

Ron,

Thx.  Ok, now I know what you mean.  Ya, a nylock is rated at 220F, so using that does get a bit sketchy.
You're describing a "flex top" locknut.

There's other locknuts having little additional thickness than (or the same as) a standard, medium-grade nut.
Like a serrated nut, or a serrated flange nut; center-lock distorted locknut, top-lock distorted locknut (a/k/a my centerpunch suggestion); internal and external-tooth lockwasher nuts.  Many Cats, many ways to skin a stud.
For that matter 007 using a simple, thin, internal/external lock washer should suffice if stud length is tight for a spring lockwasher.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : if you have a "Fastenal" store in your area you can special order all kinds of unique fasteners.  Like a thin "flex top" self locking nut.

I'm not sure what they do on line, but you might give "fastenal.com" a try.

A thought