mkII ignition key switch and engine hours meter

[wingman]

Yes, I never trust boat fuel gauges. So far .625 gal/hr is about average consumption so .75 is a good conservative number to use.

[KWKloeber]

WM

I mistyped earlier - it isn't a different Parts Manual for the B(c) engines -- it's a different Ops Manual (revision 3) for them.  I haven't studied the differences but I aspect it's just different starting procedures/buttons between the Westerbeke and Catalina engine panels. 

I just uploaded the new manual to the techwiki under "Manuals".
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php 

That Ops manual has both Catalina wiring diagrams that Stu mentions.  If you try to trace out your wiring I have something that might help but I haven't finished it yet.  As Stu noted those two wiring diagrams are drawn/depicted differently.  (But they are functionally/electrically the same.) 
I am taking the "Catalina Wiring Schematic" and numbering the circuits to show how they correspond to the "Catalina Wiring Diagram."  I will post that (with an explanation) as soon as I finish it.

Meanwhile, I attached Westerbeke's engineering drawing of the wiring for Catalina.

[Jim Hardesty]

Regarding fuel consumption don't believe the gage as you have an asymmetrical fuel tank!!!  Use time and engine hours.  I'll guess that for a 35HP M35BC engine I'd start at .75 gal/hr and then increase or decrease that consumption based on experience.

Ron is correct, again.  That's exactly what I use, when refilling have a good idea how much fuel it will take.  Fudge it some depending on conditions.  I added a small white board above the nav station, I write the engine hours when I top up with fuel.  That way I don't have to open up the log book.
FWIW that little white board works good for me, I used to have a batch of post-it notes.  I write last fuel hours, last pump out date, and anything that I want to keep an eye on. 

Jim

[KWKloeber]

Wm

Here is where your model number is located if you want to verify it:

[wingman]

Thanks All, have narrowed down some of the original issues. Engine hours meter does indeed run w/ key "on."

In the process, however, now have an even more interesting issue: tachometer not operating properly. Mostly sits on zero but slowly moves up to about 1200 when throttle is advanced to what sounds more like 2000, then w/o touching throttle, indicated RPM goes back to zero.

Pedestal voltmeter also seems to be registering 17v with engine running, normally that would show about 14v. Panel voltmeter is more normal at about 14. Batteries seem to be charging. Belt and tension seems ok.

The boat has a Balmar 165a AT alternator with smart external regulator. I discovered the regulator a couple of weeks ago under the sink in the head and in the back of my mind knew I was going to have to get to know it, but didn't know it would happen so soon. It seemed to be indicating that the temp of the alternator was 83c. Sounds pretty hot and the alt seemed to be hotter than the engine. Normal?

I'm working my way through Tach/alt issues on this board, but it sounds like first step in troubleshooting is to check wiring connections in hopes that it is relatively simple wiring issue...

[Jim Hardesty]

I'm working my way through Tach/alt issues on this board, but it sounds like first step in troubleshooting is to check wiring connections in hopes that it is relatively simple wiring issue...

That sounds like a good plan.  If I were doing it would check every connection, even ones not having problems now, would only take a little extra time and may prevent having to dig into the wire again.  I remember a problem on Shamrock with the shore power AC was intermittent mostly worked, traced to a bad crimp on first outlet in line.  Looked good but a gentle pull pulled the wire from the connector.  As the same crimper may have been used I pulled all the AC outlet boxes and checked, found one other bad crimp.
Lots of luck fixing your problems.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Wing : Balmar usually has a proprietary (goofy) alternator connector.  I had a similar problem and it was all in that connector to the alternator.

You might want to call Balmar 360-435-6100 and get a new connector for those 2 wires and redo the wires with the new connector!!  That's what I did and the new connector solved the problem.   

A thought 

[wingman]

An update for anyone interested in inop/intermittent tach issue previously discussed in this thread.

After checking all the electrical connections, the tach now operates as intended. Don't know which connection was the issue, but I think I will leave well enough alone for now.

Still need to replace the pedestal voltmeter. Catalina Direct has what appears to be a drop-in replacement https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-380390/electrical/engine-instrument-voltmeter/

Anyone replaced the pedestal voltmeter on a 2000-era Cat34MKii?

[Stu Jackson]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Still need to replace the pedestal voltmeter. Catalina Direct has what appears to be a drop-in replacement https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-380390/electrical/engine-instrument-voltmeter/

Anyone replaced the pedestal voltmeter on a 2000-era Cat34MKii?

Thanks for the update.  Intermittent anything electrical is 99% usually a connection, most likely the tach on the back of the alternator, although you didn't mention just what and where.

While I "only" have a Mark I, I replaced my voltmeter eons ago in my cockpit panel, forget where I got it.  MY PO had already upgraded from the ammeter, although you don't have that issue.  I would find out what instrument CD sells and do some comparastive shopping before pulling the trigger.  Good luck.