Stemhead Removal

[TortolaTim]

Pulling and replacing the stemhead as I'm doing a complete rigging refit. Got all the bolts out, but can't get it past the rubrail. Does that have to be removed? I REALLY don't want to have to do that

[KWKloeber]

Tim
Someone on our forum recently did this by heating and working the vinyl out just around the bow and removing the screws back a ways.  With that loose he was able to move the rub rail aluminum enough to slip out the stem.
All went back together just peachy. I'd guess given that we both have pointy ends, it would work the same on the 34.

[TortolaTim]

Sounds like a great idea. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

[mdidomenico]

Sounds like a great idea. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

my '89 is somewhat near yours in number.  i also replaced the original stemhead with the one from CD.  i was not able to get the old unit out without pulling the aluminum rubrail holder off as well.  there simply wasn't enough room.

as an aside, i'm glad i did.  i found the gelcoat/FG under the original stemhead needed a little cleanup and i pulled the bow roller as well (there was a small hole)

[TortolaTim]

I got it removed this morning, pretty easy thanks to the above recomendation. I popped off the rubrail around the bow (no heat needed), removed about 15 screws from the aluminum trim and released the section from the bow, which then provided plenty of room to remove the stemhead. Next challenge is sending it to CD and getting a new one made in a reasonable amount of time.
I'm going to re-bed the bow roller as well while there is space up there. I think it's got a small leak

[KWKloeber]

Tim,

Great Tim.  Strange that there ARE some similarities betwixt a mere 4 feet difference.

I'd suggest you check with Garhauer -- CD don't fabricate nuttin - they just farm it out and mark it up -- and you add more precious time in double shipping (and cost).

[WBev]

Before taking delivery of Wobegon, I paid to have this done.  However, I spoke with the good people at Garhauer and had them make the stemhead fitting, and paid them directly.  They seem to make it for CD, but when you buy direct, you do not get a backing plate.  The yard used fender washers. The new design looks stronger, but what do I know. 

The original stemhead was cracked. Sending it to Garhauer resulted in a near perfect fit.  Nearly so as it will be installed with no tension, so there may be a small amount of give-way needed. 

On Wobegon, the "new" design resulted in a very slight difference in the space between the anchor shaft as it deploys, and the furler barrel.  We have a Schaffer for Catalina 34 furler, and the shaft now hits the edge when the anchor deploys.  I purchased a 30" bow roller.  Again, it came without a backing plate from Garhauer.  The CD version is now made by another company and comes with a backing plate. More money, but supports CD.   I have yet to install this, and currently guide the anchor away from the furler as it drops.

[mdidomenico]

just for reference.  i did order my new stemhead from CD and it did not come with a backing plate.

the horizontal part that bolts to the top the deck didn't have one originally either, so i'm not sure that one there is actually "required" (though i'll admit i'd like to have one there)

the part that attaches to the cutwater did have a backing plate, but the stemhead received from CD has the holes drilled in the exact same place, so i can reuse the old backing plate.

[TortolaTim]

I did call CD and they had a 2 MONTH turnaround for the stemhead! I'll give Garhauer a call on Monday. I have, however closely inspected the fitting and it looks to be in great shape, no corrosion or overt pitting/ cracking. I'm doing a dye penetrant test now to see if I find any hidden easter eggs. If I don't, I'm leaning toward putting the old one back on the boat (Great Lakes freshwater boat for its entire life until last week).

[mdidomenico]

I don't know if you have the same stemhead as mine, but my understanding is the metal was too thin and the angle for the jib is slightly wrong.  this is what happened to mine.  so even if you don't have cracks or seams yet, you very well could if pushed hard.  i'm not sure it rises to "fix this now, or else" but seeing this on my boat certainly made me cautious of it

[KWKloeber]

If I don't, I'm leaning toward putting the old one back on the boat (Great Lakes freshwater boat for its entire life until last week).

Tim, If were to do that I know that would first give it to my (lead stainless fabricator) buddy to look-see/check welds (and realign/reinforce anything he felt necessary.)

[WBev]

I would call it an essential fix, only because it is an integral part to holding your mast up.  I did have a certified welder look at mine, and was told he could fix it, it may be fine, but the fact the weld gave way suggests a problem in the design. He even suggested he could do it while mounted on the boat.

For the cost of the new one, I also have piece of mind as to that part being improved and safer than original. 

[TortolaTim]

Doug at Garhauer said he can turn it around in about a week. MUCH better than the 7-8 weeks CD told me. I FedEx'ed it to them today. Quoted $175 for the piece vs $225 at CD.

[rmbrown]

I got mine from Garhauer... Doug rocks!

[TortolaTim]

I finally got the new stem from Garhauer and it appears that it doesn't fit properly. First, the 2 holes on the top are off by about an inch. Not a HUGE problem, as I'm okay with refilling the original deck holes with West System and drilling new holes to match. However, the front of the stem appears to have quite a gap between the fitting and the leading edge of the bow. I know there was a decent amount of 4200 stuffed in there on my old one, but this looks like an excessively large gap to me. When I compare it to my old one, they look to be the same angle. Has anyone had the same issue when installing a new stem?