Odd Stuffing Box Line Placement

[TortolaTim]

Ok guys, I'm working down my winterization list and got to the replacement of the heat exchanger zinc. I had a hard time finding it, then realized that the dripless stuffing box hose is attached where the zinc should be.  Has anyone ever seen this done before? My research online shows that that hose is normally just routed straight up above the waterline and into space so I'm a bit confused. I'm guessing that the zinc has been removed to facilitate this setup. The stuffing box itself is pretty new according to the broker listing when I bought the boat, but I don't have any of the paperwork for it, so I don't know what brand it is. I'm going back to the marina tomorrow, so I'm going to take a closer look at it and get some pics if I can. I just wanted to throw this out there to you guys before I make the drive tomorrow.
Thanks again!

[KWKloeber]

Tim

On sailboat you don't need to plumb a water supply to the dripless seal.  On a powerboat the dripless needs to be watered, otherwise it can burn up.  Or if a sailboat has a bearing in the shaft log then it too needs to have water supplied to the dripless.

Typically just a vent line is run on certerline to above the waterline as you describe.

There's no harm watering the dripless but not necessary (belt and suspenders?) but the Hx anode should remain in place -- so it's better to tee off a seawater hose rather than watering it via from the anode port.

[TortolaTim]

Thanks, Ken. That's kind of what I was thinking too. I'm going to see if I can figure out the exact model today at the boat and find some tech data on it, but I agree about the zinc being replaced. Additional question...since this thing has water in it, what about winterization requirements? I haven't seen anyone mention anything about it. I'm in the Detroit area, and it gets pretty cold here mid-winter, so I don't want anything to burst.
Thanks, again

[Ron Hill]

Tim : I'll guess that the PO plumbed it like that because you are in fresh water!!!
You might think about using a fresh water anode in the HX and plumbing the packing gland seperatly as mentioned by Ken.

A few thoughts 

[TortolaTim]

Ron, yep I did today what you advised. I removed the line from the HX and installed an anode, then re-plumbed the line from the stuffing box to the raw water circuit.

[Noah]

What do you mean " re-plumbed into raw water circuit"? I recommend you read Mainsail's posts/site regarding terminating dripless line—it should provide some helpful tips. Caveat: I have a traditional stuffing box.

[TortolaTim]

I did read it, thanks. I also got this from the latest edition of Calder's book. "In order to keep the seal lubricated, provision is made to maintain a water supply from the engine's raw-water circuit." The mechanic who installed the new stuffing box did this, but used the hole for the anode in the HX for the water supply, thereby eliminating the anode. I moved the hose from the HX to another hose on the RW circuit so I could put the anode back in. I did also read PYI's instructions for the seal and it does say that low speed vessels (like ours) are ok just to vent the line above the waterline, vis a vis mainesail's post. Faster boats need to be plumbed the way I have done it. The mechanic who installed the unit had a water supply attached, that's why I decided to keep it that way.

[Craig Illman]

A PO had plumbed the stuffing box line to a raw water line, but it was below the water line of the boat on my C30. When you serviced the raw water pump or the HX it siphoned into the bilge and you couldn't stop it. I think it's a sinking hazard. I rerouted to one of the vent devices recommended in the Mainesail article. It was only $8?

Craig

[KWKloeber]

Tim

I don't have a dripless and don't winterize using antifreeze so I probably shouldn't speak to that.

An unsolicited comment on the install - if that's yellow brass tee, barbs - note that yellow brass isn't approved for raw water use.  Tho, being on freshwater would be a mitigating factor.  Red brass is "ok", bronze or maerlon (or marleon-like) would be best. 
And all below-waterline, or potentially siphoning raw water, hoses should be double-clamped (best is to use ABA or AWAB type clamps.)

-k

[TortolaTim]

Craig, it's above the waterline, I checked it again yesterday. 👍

Ken, agree about the bronze. I've looked all over for suitable marelon or brass T-fittings. I can't find them anywhere.  I have a PVC "T" attached to one of my thru hulls, and I'm really wanting to shore it up with the proper materials after reading mainesail's blog about thru-hulls. It is the shower drain T-eed with the head intake raw water line. Any ideas where to source the appropriate T fitting for this? It would also be the appropriate part for the stuffing box line above.

Thanks again to everyone for all the great suggestions

[KWKloeber]

Tim

Your burb setup is 5/8" x 5/8" x ?
The head supply tee you need is what size hoses and threads onto what size?

[TortolaTim]

Ken, looks like for the stuffing box, 5/8,5/8 and 3/8.  The head thru hull T has 5/8 ID hose barbs , but I can't tell what thread sizes they are. I'm hauling out tomorrow, so I'll disassemble it on the hardstand and figure out what I need.

[KWKloeber]

Tim

And the thread size the T screws onto?  This screws (with a nipple) onto a forespar valve?
Like this?

[TortolaTim]

I'll have to take it apart and measure it. I'm going to try to get out there on Sat, but here are some pics of the setup