Topics

I've been trying to remove a seized stainless steel acorn nut using various penetrating oil/concoctions (please don't recommend any more, I've tried so many, "guaranteed to work"), controlled application of heat, impact wrenches, and all combinations thereof without any success.  Angle grinders/sawing won't work in this situation unfortunately.

Somehow I've been living in cave and just learned about nut splitters, which I believe would be the answer to my prayers.  My question is does anyone have experience with these and in particular with stainless steel acorn nuts?  Lots of stuff on youtube, but nothing for stainless that I could find.  What I have learned is the cheap brands have a high failure rate, but I'm reluctant to drop money on a quality nut splitter only to not have it work.

Comments on nut splitters vs stainless?

Hello all:

This is a new one for me...  After 10 years of annual renewals of our insurance on our 1990 C34, our underwriter is now asking if our propane system is NFPA certified, and if not, they want it inspected to ensure it is compliant.  I understand that the Catalina LPG system meets ABYC LPG requirements, and I have described our factory system to them, but at this time they are insistent on it being NFPA compliant.

Is anyone aware if Catalina's LPG systems are also NFPA compliant, or any other insight/comments?

Thanks,
Steve

Has anyone tried to fit a Honda EU2000 in the port lazarette on a Mk 1.5 C34?  I've cruised the site and the web, but I haven't found a definitive answer either way.

I know the lazerette has more height at the outboard side compared to the most inboard portion, which may allow the EU2000 to be slid in on an angle, then stood upright once at the "back" outboard side of the lazerette.  I haven't purchased the EU2000 yet, but I don't want to store it anywhere other than where it will be out of sight when not in use.

Our C34 is a 1990 with the walk-through transom based on the Mk1 design - certainly not as wide in the aft as the Mk II, as I'm sure most readers are already aware.

Thanks,
Steve

Last week I was leaving the harbour when I noticed that the engine water temp was quickly climbing past 190F, and water was no longer coming out of the exhaust, so I killed the engine and coasted.  A quick cleaning of the raw water strainer failed to resolve the problem.  Leaving the strainer cap off, I re-opened the seacock, and no water flowed telling me there was a complete blockage in the through-hull.  I ultimately dropped anchour, removed the hose between the seacock and the strainer allowing me to repeatedly shove a large flat-bladed screwdriver through the open seacock/through-hull, clearing the blockage; Blowing into it was totally ineffective (I believe you can only produce about 2 - 4 PSI with your lungs, despite the red face, broken blood vessels in the eyes etc. suggesting otherwise).

In wishing to prove out the rest of the cooling system (impeller, HX etc.) flow before getting back underway, I discovered that placing the head sink/shower head into the water strainer via the removed cap, and turning on the sink/shower head tap partially, easily supplied enough water to keep the strainer full, very effectively cooling the engine.  Not only did this prove out that there were no other cooling system issues, but I realized that a person could keep the engine running to motor to a safe location, if required.  Of course, this would only work as long as there was water in the tanks 

I have not had much success in locating information on the mounting of the rudder sensor for the Raymarine S1.  Can anyone point me to posts showing what others have done to mount the sensor on a C34 please?

I found the following website link in another post, but it doesn't appear to be a C34.

http://www.pc-land.com/simplelife/simple_life_dbase/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=18&posts=2

Thanks.

I have changed the forward nav light bulb three times in the last the year.  In that time, I've only had the nav lights illuminated maybe for a couple of hours total.  When I replace the bulb, there are no signs of water having entered in behind the lens, wetting the bulb, so I am at a loss why the bulbs are failing so frequently, and with such very little use.  The aft nav light is the same bulb and lens model, and I've yet to replace it. This leads me to believe that I have not accidentally left the nav lights on when I've left the boat.

I've attached a photo of the latest failed bulb, which is consistant with the previous bulbs.  I find it interesting that the glass is no longer clear, but the entire length of the bulb has a mirror like appearance, and it has a gold band at one end.  I would have expected the bulb to be like any other; clear glass with a visibly broken filament.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

We're about to install some surface mount speakers in the cockpit.  Any recommendations as to what tool one should use to cut the holes in the fibreglass?  I don't want to run any unnecessary risk of chipping the fibreglass.

Thanks.

I've searched the board with no luck...  Can anyone tell me the length of furling line required for a single line drum?

I've just ordered the 900SL drum assy to convert my 915LD Hood furler and I want to order the line as well, so that they both arrive about the same time.  I've been told to order approximately twice the boat length, but I would like to "measure twice, cut once,"  on my order.  There is no use measuring my existing line as it is a continuous loop.

Thanks,
Steve

It is time to redo L'Abri's name and registration numbers on her hull.  I friend is an artist and has volunteered to do the handywork, but needs to know what type and brand of paint is best to adhere to the hull.

Any suggestions?

I'm getting ready to install my new Espar Airtronic D4 into L'Abri, which has a walk through transom.  I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions before I started drilling holes...  I've read all of the previous posts that I could find, and generally everyone seems to prefer mounting in the aft port locker, plumbing the exhaust to the port side, aft.

I am assuming that the actual mounting location is beneath the locker, and not in it???  Does anyone have a photograph that they could post, or e-mail me of their installation, or a detailed description of how the unit is actually mounted?

The other question that I have is, is there a need to run a duct for each the combustion air intake, and the fresh air intake, or can one leave them to both gather air from the area where the unit is mounted?  If a duct is required for either, where do you suggest the intake vent be located.

Thanks for any input.

Steve

'90 L'Abri
Hull# 1080

I've had the bronze prop shaft replaced recently with a stainless steel shaft, which also included a new stuffing box using Teflon flax.  The shipwright told me to watch the stuffing box for the first while, and that he left the adjustment, "a bit loose."

I've searched the discussion forum and I've found numerous messages about how the stuffing box can be adjusted to get warm, but not "too warm".  I'm looking for a more precise definition on "warm" .

In my case, for the first couple of hours, the stuffing box is cool to warm as time passes.  After three or four hours, the stuffing box is "very warm", to the point that you can keep your hand on it, but it is a bit uncomfortable.  I was once told by a mechanic friend that if you can hold something hot in your hand, without having to let it go, it is below 200 degres F.

Can anyone expand on how warm is too hot?  I understand that Teflon is better at dealing with heat, and some posts/web searches I've found, suggest that Teflon flax does run "hot".

Thanks,
Steve
'90 L'Abri
Hull# 1080

The internal motor gear, from the gear to belt assembly on my rather dated wheel steering Autohelm 4000 failed, which produced some very nice plastic shapes when I took the wheel assembly apart.  I phoned a local Autohelm repair facility today to discover that a person cannot purchase the gear assembly, but they could sell me a new wheel unit, to the tune of ~C$800.00, when Raymarine does their next manufacturing run in late May, early June.

Needless to say, I'd rather keep that amount of money in my jeans, and I would like to find a source for used components if possible.

Thanks,
Steve
'90 L'Abri
Hull# 1080

We have our newly purchased C34 out of the water to have the bronze prop shaft replaced because it is fairly pitted.  The boat yard has stated that the existing plastic through-hulls are "garbage" and should be replaced with bronze.  Is this sound advice, or am I being fed a bit of a line.  The surveyor never indicated that plastic was a problem and all but one function just fine.  Obviously the one that is seized must be replaced regardless.

Thanks,
Steve

'90 C34 L'Abri
Hull# 1080

I've searched the board and the web to no avail...  The audible low oil pressure alarm does not sound when the key is turned on, and I wish to diagnose the problem.  I see the sending unit on the M35 is a single lead type, and I suspect it simply goes to ground to indicate its state.  I need to know however, if my theory is correct, and if so, does the sending unit provide a ground on sensing a low, or the proper operating oil pressure.  I haven't had a chance to put my meter on it yet to see if ground is even involved, but it is high on my to do list.

I'll work my way to the the engine panel and the buzzer, once I prove out the sending unit.

Any information on this problem is appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

'90 C34 L'Abri