Electrical panel fuse

[rappareems]

I noticed while cruising for a couple weeks ago my refrigeration fuse was very hot to the touch... the lettering had actually discolered a bit which caught my eye.  I shut down and went with ice for the duration.  When going to check it out this morning upon returning home, the fuse cap came apart in my fingers... the fuse itself was still intact but some of the metal at the end was slightly discolored.... Anyway I put in an in-line fuse and that seems to be doing the trick.  I called Catalina to see about getting a replacement "fuseholder" for the panel, no return call as of yet... any suggestions.  As you see the boat is an '86.  I would like to get the fuse back on the panel where I can access it readily.

Mark

[Stu Jackson]

Mark, sorry to hear about your trouble.  The fuseholder is a simple replaceable item:  go to Radio Shack.  Then check the wiring connections.

[Ron Hill]

Mark : Depending on the age of your fridge, the models in 1987 and later also have a "stab in" fuse on the compressor unit.  You might want to check that if there is one.

I believe that for your panel fuse replacement you might call Seaward (562)699-7997 X210 and ask Dennis about a replacement fuse holder for your 1986 panel.  A thought

[n624ma]

I would definitely call a Seaward for a replacement.

The fuse holder that you will get at Radio Shack will probably have a short life at that current level in a damp environment.

Most likely the problem was caused by corrosion on the fuse holder cap contact creating heat.

I use a LITTLE! silicone grease on each end of my fuses (if you can see it it's too much) but as they say "your boat, your choice". The spring tension will move it out of the contact area but the rest if the end will stay free of corrosion.

One of my projects for this winter is a new panel with circuit breakers for this exact reason. 

[Stu Jackson]

WADR, if you have a damp environment behind your electrical panel, you have other BIG troubles.  I've seen some that I wouldn't go near...and even one on a C34.  While I don't live in the Great Pacific Northwest or Florida, it does rain here, a lot, during the winter.  So I do know...

Current? 10A DC, not much.  BTW, we've noted that the Adler Barbour units take a 10A fuse, incorrectly noted and installed by Catalina on the panels with 15A fuses.  Change it to a 10A fuse.  The fuse on the fridge compressor unit is also 10A, and worth checking, too, or just replace it.  Mine is a straight glass fuse, same age boat.  While you're there, check the wiring connections to the unit.

Radio Shack will not give you much anything different than Seaward will, 'cuz unless I'm wrong, those fuseholders are simple "they only made one kind" for many, many years.  What do you have to lose?  Take yours out, bring it in and see if they're any different.

I regularly take my fuses out and check them, a little Boeshield T9 or Ron's Tuner Cleaner goes a long way.

And don't use grease.  Grease does NOT conduct electricity.

If you do choose to wait for delivery by calling Seaward, you might find out that they have a minimum $20 order.  Because of that, when I needed one of those green DC ON lights, I bought two and a handful of the paddle switches.  See "Critical Upgrades" about the paddle switches.  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.msg39196.html#msg39196

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Just for clarification:

Boeshield T7 is used on electrical connections that are already made - it has a waxy film that keeps moisture out of that connection.  NEVER use it on two open ends and then connect those ends together.

Turner Cleaner is meant to be used on the two open ends before connecting them together.  It gives lubrication, cleans and adds conductivity. 

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks for noting that important difference for T9.  Good catch.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Silicone grease is a dielectric and like Stu mentioned will not conduct electricity.

if you are bound and determined to use grease at least use lithium grease or anti-seize coumpound.  
A thought

[n624ma]

Ron,
The reason for using silicone grease is that it has a low film strength so that the contacts literally wipe it off when they are assembled. This is the same grease that a lot of manufactures pack into one side of their plugs to keep them water-resistant and corrosion free.

I can still remember being appalled watching my grandfather coat battery terminals and posts with grease when installing them, then I figured out that the terminal squeezed out the grease at the contact area and created an airtight seal at the edges. (Everything he touched always started!)

Counter intuitive I'll admit but it works well.

[Ron Hill]

Joseph : You are correct about the grease on battery terminals.
 
The 30 years I was in the militery we coated the terninals on tracked and wheeled vehicles after they were cleaned and after they were connected - NOT before they were connected. 

[rappareems]

Thanks for the input, I have replaced the fuse at the compressor some time ago and will get a few of those green lights as well as mine is out again.  Waiting for a return call from Dennis...

Mark

[rappareems]

Got a message from Denis at Seaward... he is not familiar with the '86 fuse holder and described something different... I will try him again.  Do we have a picture of the panel available on the web site?

Mark