Saloon Table - Butcher Block idea

[Roland Gendreau]

Lots of articles and projects have been written about modifying or replacing the salon table with one that is easier to get in and around.

After reviewing many of those, I decided to try my hand at a solution.

The fleet admiral's required that the table remain large enough so that 4 could comfortably dine without the diners' plates being to close.

We never use our salon table as a bed, so the new table did not have to function in that way.  I marked up the existing table and brought it to my home workshop. From the markups, I made a template of the new table out of some 1/4inch plywood; the admiral brought out some dining plates and arranged them on the template to make sure it met her requirements.

I brought the template back to the boat and confirmed that the reduced size did provide improved access.

For material, I purchased a 24x48 piece of 1 inch thick butcher block material at Ikea. Cost: $49.

I didn't have access to a band saw, so I used a jig saw to cut the table to the dimensions of the template.  We never liked the fiddles on the old table and never use the table underway so I used a round over router bit on the table edge.

So attached is a photo of the table after sanding, awaiting finishing, and  laying on top of the original table, so you can see the difference in size. Notice how the flared out corners are quite reduced in size.  This will make the table much easier to get in and around.

I'll post another photo after it is finished and installed.  I haven't decided on the stain and finish as yet.

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

search link [saloon table]

[Rick Johnson]

Looks great... I think I'll go by Ikea and get some butcher block....  It would look good as a sink and stove cover...

Cheers,

Rick

[Stu Jackson]

Very nice work, and thanks for the picture.  It remains large enough so that even if you change your mind you can still use the saloon for a berth.  What are you going to use for a finish?

[waterdog]

Very nice! 

I started measuring the distances from the seat backs to the table edge on our table.   They were ridiculous.   Then I measured reasonable distances and started drawing pencil lines on our table.    The pencil lines look like the outline of your table.   

I have other constraints:  fiddles have to stay, must maintain sleeping configuration, storing a large table is not an option.   So my fore and aft fiddles will actually pop in on dowels and be replaced by "sleeping inserts" in the down configuration. 

[Tom Clay]

Very nice, looks like the same size as the smaller table in our MK11. We turn ours side ways to allow even more room around the table, the compression post does not get in the way.

[Bobg]

Very nice, I did the same for my boat, also bought the butcher block for the sink and stove cover, get it at Menards around here, MN.  I did have trouble with it warping when applying stain and poly, I did one over and stained and polyurethane  both sides at the same time which seemed to help.  Also my sink cover is configured so I can flip it over when the warping starts

[Roland Gendreau]

Bobg, did you have trouble with the table warping or just the sink cutting boards?

What thickness did you use for the table?

[Roland Gendreau]

There is a site that has good information on recommended finish options for the IKEA butcherblock materials here:

http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/articles/5130-butcherblock-counters-finish-options.html

I've decided to use the Waterlox finish option, which is a tung oil based sealer finish. Waterlox is a penetrating type sealer that is very resistant to moisture and is easy to maintian.  I will be finishing both the top and bottom to ensure the table top is well protected from the humid environment.

See this link for more info on Waterlox:

http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/articles/5130-butcherblock-counters-finish-options.html

I've finished sanding the top using my palm sander and  60,80,120,150,220,320,600 and 1500 grit paper.  The wood is now as smooth as a baby's a@@!

I'll post a picture after the 5 coats of Waterlox finish and sealer are applied.

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude#1183

[Bobg]

The table has been fine, It was made out of 3/4 plywood, I painted it with white epoxy paint on both sides and put fiddles on the edges. he sink is the worse, but I get warping on the stove top too.  The thickness was 3/4", from menards, maybe I should have spent more and got higher quality butcher block.  These were pretty cheap, under 10 bucks each.

[horsemel]

I haven't heard anybody mention using the butcher block for its intended purpose: cutting boards.  If you use sink covers out of butcher block you get double duty out of them.  If you want to use them for that purpose, make sure you use a food safe finish on the butcher block.  Not all are food safe!  You can get food safe finishes from any of the woodworking catalogs such as Rocklers or Woodworkers Supply.  You can also use mineral oil.  Do not use vegetable oil, it will turn rancid.
Mark Mueller
Blue Moon
#815 1988

[horsemel]

Thought you might like to see some photos of the custom salon table the previous owner installed in Blue Moon.  It has two leaves that make it small and easy to maneuver around.  Plus it can be turned 90 degrees.  The hinge hardware can be purchased from Rockler.com.  The top of the table has a chart of the Lake Erie Western Basin.  That is great for giving guests an orientation on the area or a quick reference check for planning charts.  I still use a current chart for the details.  We can also drop the table and turn the settee into a berth.  We like it.
Mark Mueller
Blue Moon #815
1988

[Bobg]

that is about as nice as it gets, if I were a better craftsman, I would do mine over, thanks for posting