Fuel issues???

[Jeff Tancock]

I'm looking for some thoughts......
After finding a leak in my fuel tank, I removed, repaired and replaced it. I used the boats fuel pump to empty the tank and then refill the tank from buckets in the cabin. I had trouble priming the pump at first but eventually got it done. Then I had trouble bleeding and starting the engine, but got it done.
Now I am having some trouble getting the boat up to full speed. Normally full throttle is 2600RPM and 6 to 6.7 knots depending on the bottom. This weekend when I put the throttle on I could get no more than 2200RPM and about 5 knots. I thought maybe the cables, all ok. I thought maybe really dirty bottom or prop. I can see that the rudder and its not bad.
The thing is that the fuel pump is really going fast when I turn on the power. It slows a bit but is still clicking 3-4 times a second. Seems too is much going on there. I went through the bleeding at the fuel filter on the engine again but it's still clicking excessively.
I can't find any other leaks or loose fittings. It seems to be a fuel supply issue.
I'm wondering if there is air trapped somewhere else that needs to be bled or if there is something wrong with my fuel pump. Do these pumps act like this when they are dying?
Any thoughts appreciated.

[Ed Shankle]

Jeff, did you check the other bleed valve (knurled head) that's above the injector pump? If that's wide open it will cause the fuel pump to click rapidly. Don't know what that does to rpm's however, never experimented.

regards,
Ed

[KWKloeber]

 Sounds like you have an air/vacuum leak.
I would try troubleshooting at the pump first. Take a rag or tape around the fuel hose  to protect it and clamp it shut right past the fuel pump. You can use a vice grip  or you can actually buy a vice grip with rounded jaws to clamp hoses w/o damaging them.   See if the pump acts like it's supplying full pressure and slows down. Nearly to a stop 

was there a screen present on the fuel uptake tube, and did you remove it?

Verify that your sequence is fuel tank > primary filter > lift pump.

[KWKloeber]

 Jeff, I'll add that it would not appear to be a dirty bottom issue. Because the problem is getting RPMs to the prop, not getting speed once the RPMs are delivered to the prop. The diesel has a governor, so even if there was a heavy load, it should still be able to provide the called for RPM to the prop (within reason of course).

kk

[Jeff Tancock]

Hi Ed, yes when I open the knurled head the pump speeds up rapidly. I have always left that knob open a quarter turn. Closing it completely only slows it to 3-4 clicks a second.

I removed the screen about 10 years ago the last time I had the tank out.
Yes sequence is correct. Changed that about 18 years ago.
Good idea to clamp the hose after the pump. I've used a vice grip with a rag to protect the hose before the pump when changing the filter.
I did change out the primary filter and opened up the pump to check and clean the screen after filling the tank.

[sailaway]

There is a screen filter in the fuel pump take it apart an clean maybe it might help. Charlie

[Ed Shankle]

Did you check the Racor, to insure the knurled knob on top is completely closed?
Regards,
Ed

[Jeff Tancock]

Thanks Ed, yes I did do that.
I'm thinking that when I get to the boat again I am going to pull the hose coming out of the fuel pump and manually pull some fuel through the filter and the pump and see if that primes the pump better.
The pump could not prime itself when I was trying to pump the fuel back into the tank so I'm thinking that is the most likely problem, unless the pump is toast.

[KWKloeber]

 If you look on the tech wiki, I've listed facit part numbers for that pump. You can get it for about 80 boat bucks, which seems like good insurance to get one and try it. At the age of the pump it may not last that much longer even if it's good now, and a back up would be a good idea.

[Noah]

Jeff- It has been discussed on this Forum that with our tanks "up high" you should be able to run engine without Facet pump, as long as there is enough fuel in the tank to gravity feed. But I've never tried it.

[Jeff Tancock]

I've read that Noah. Not sure why we have pumps and why they have to work so hard if it is really gravity fed.
It would be nice to know if the engine really would work without a pump.

[KWKloeber]

 Owners have confirmed that the engine will continue RUNNING if the pump is shut off. Hence that's why, on the B series engines, the low oil pressure/fuel pump shut down circuit is basically window dressing.

I'm not sure if the engine will START without the lift pump,  but certainly it probably wouldn't start unless the fuel pick up/hose/everything had solid fuel. I.e., the lift pump is needed to initially start the "Siphon" flowing "up and over" the height of the tank.

kk

[Ed Shankle]

I've voiced my exception to that in the past and I assume there may be others who agree; my experience is that when the lift pump quits, so does the engine shortly after. Maybe has something to do with the routing of the hose or the height of the pump. I dunno. I carry a spare. I guess the best thing for you to do Jeff is test it with your boat so you can confirm how your setup responds.
Regards,
Ed

[Stu Jackson]

I just filled up my fuel tank.  I also installed a fuel pump shutoff switch in my engine compartment, although I could just as well shut off the main 1-2-B switch once the engine was running.

Give me a day or two and I'll do the test.

Then we just need someone who has less than a full tank to do the same.

[Noah]

I'd volunteer but my dang HX is still disconnected, pending welding a new bracket. Give me week or sothing to squared that issue away and I'd be game. If I got in trouble and have to bleed the fuel system I'll be annoyed but, since I have never done---the test will be good traininf for me. I heardbit is pretty much self bleeding anyway.