Stage 1 - 100 Amp Alternator using InCharge 3 Stage External Regulator

[britinusa]

ie. If I were motoring along and the ext-reg died, what would I notice?

Paul, what instrumentation do you have for digital voltage readings?  The cockpit panel won't help at all.  We have a Link 2000 down below and I check it regularly.  Easy to see "what's up."  I also check the readout on my MC-612.

We have the Link 2000-R on the outside of the nav table.

[Stu Jackson]

OK, you have a great tool.  Next time you're out motoring, turn your ignition key switch off and watch the voltage and amperage.  That is what happens when the regulator is turned off.

[britinusa]

Good point Stu, thanks.

It would also turn off the Fuel Pump, but probably not long enough to shut the engine down.

Update on Progress.

So today I went down to the boat to do the last part of the install. Wire up the Regulator Sensing and the Regulator -ve.
The Sensing +ve was easy, straight connect of the fused line to the small wire attachment plate on the Battery +ve terminal.
The -ve was not so easy, I decided to attach it to the Battery side of the Shunt in the -ve line. That's on the aft face of the bulkhead that is in front of the sink. I injured my ribs a week ago and don't bend double to well right now, so that job took a while.

All done, Double check that all wires and crimps are heat shrinked and firmly connected.

Test time.
Turned on the Ignition - Fuel pump runs - Check, Blower runs - Check, Glow Plug On - Check (fuel pump goes into overdrive which is normal on our boat) Then Ignition fuse blows! WTH!

Turns out the Starter solenoid cable had popped off the Solenoid Grrrrrr! Ken warned me about this, I should have gone with the after market solenoid that has a stud and nut in place of the push on connector. I'm not sure why the ignition fuse blew, possible short near the starter????

Anyway, after realizing that the terminal had popped off, I reattached it (that's not easy) and we tried over.

Fuse doesn't blow - Check
Blower off, Glow off, Start!
Grunt! The solenoid would not engage, just a grunt.

So on the way home I picked up a new Solenoid and will install that asap.

Are we there yet?

Paul

[KWKloeber]

Paul

What is your "ign fuse" setup?  Pics?

I'm looking at the solenoid I recommended.  Just waiting to be shipped out. LOL.

An option:  use a BARE female disconnect. Crimp to a 6" yellow #10 pigtail. On the harness end, crimp a fully insulated AHS male disconnect. By "fully insulated" I mean one that is fully enclosed when halved are put together (prevents corrosion).  Attached.

CAREFULLY Solder the bare disconnect to the solenoid S terminal. AHS over the terminal.  Use a heat sink so that you don't solder the pigtail wire and create a work hardening failure spot.

On your harness S wire, crimp on a matching fully insulated AHS female disconnect.

You now have a solid connection and still have a disconnect if needed. If possible zip tie the S wire so there is no movement at that solder spot (ie, no movement between the harness wire and engine).

I just now made up one of those for a harness shipping tomorrow.  You can have one N/C.  Or the better solenoid for the same Kubota cost.

Ken

[KWKloeber]

Paul

One other option, only slightly better than the current quick disconnect on the solenoid

Instead of the  typical 1/4 inch quick disconnect, use a Packard 56 female terminal. It has a permanent spring in it rather than relying on the fold over wings on a typical disconnect. The issue is, they may be available, but I have not seen those Packard 56 terminals sized for number 10 wire, only the largest being 14 gage.

kk

[britinusa]

Thanks Ken,
The Ignition fuse is an inline ATO type fuse, 20amp

For the disconnect in the Start Solenoid wire from the control panel, could use something like the ATO type fuse with, say, a 30amp fuse.
If I needed to disconnect it, just remove the fuse.

??

Paul

[KWKloeber]

Paul,

OK. I missed The first part of your post about having the harness fused. Duh.

Well you're right about sn ATO on the S wire, but I'm not sure what good that does you because you can kill power to it via the other ATO on the harness power wire. .Of course, the OEM engines had an in-line glass fuse right before the solenoid. It was basically useless because it's at the wrong end of the harness, and your harness is already fused. . The fuse was also problematic because being an in-line glass fuse like that there's extra connections and voltage loss and it corroded.  It was not s good solution for a marine engine.

What's your objection to a good disconnect there, or a threaded post solenoid?

Do you have the glow plug relay/solenoid? If not a 20 amp fuse is probably light for everything. I figured 25 amp minimum.

Ken

[britinusa]

Thanks Ken,
no glow solenoid, so I'll put the next size fuse up.(in the ignition line)

Update: DUH!
Installed new solenoid yesterday. Checked the glow wire to confirm no shorts. Tried to start
Now the 'DUH!'
Engine would not start! Exactly the same issue as the day before. Dang!
Got out my AVO and checked the V at the Solenoid/Starter. 10v 'DUH!'
Checked the V at the Master Start Switch - 10v

Now, I was under the impression that the engine was started by the house battery(14.0v) unless the Battery selector was switched to #2 'DUH!'

Wrong. The engine is wired to start via the Start Battery (so it's not a 'Reserve'). If the Battery Selector is switched to 'All' then the house battery is used to Start.

Start Battery V = 10v

If I had looked at the volt meter on the control panel I would have seen that low voltage.

Switched the Battery selector to All and Started the engine - it literally sprang into life. Smiles all around.

Ok, Engine starting system is fine, Start Battery is dead. (That explains a lot. The engine has been a bit reluctant to start the last couple of times)

New battery will be installed today. Will check charging circuit.

Learned a little more about our electrical system today. Always a good thing. I'll keep the old solenoid as a spare.

The new Alternator worked great and the regulator is working as expected.

I did turn off the ignition with the engine running, the Engine relaxed (no load) that would have been because the power to the Regulator was removed so no excite field voltage. Turned ignition back on and engine went back into labor as expected.

Paul