New elec panel

[SPembleton]

In about a month I want to replace my original (1986) elect panel with a Blue Sea 8084 panel.  The new panel is smaller than the one I am removing.  Has anyone installed this new panel? What creative ways did you account for the larger opening? This just looks like some time consuming work, but nothing difficult.  I have prelabeled all of the wires, and have good quality crimping tool and a supply of heat shrinks.  Any other advice would be welcome.

Pics would be great!

[Jon W]

Hi Steve,
     I'm not sure where you plan to install the new panel, but the 8084 is 10" tall by 14.75" wide. The width can be addressed with a new fascia panel. The panel height will be a problem if your Nav Station is like my MK1. My new Blue Sea Custom panel is 7.75" tall by 18" wide. I made a new Teak fascia panel to replace the OEM Teak plywood. Fits nicely but little to no room for a taller panel. See photo.

[SPembleton]

My current opening is 8.25 x 18 7/8.  I think i have enough room to cut the opeming larger for the height, but was wondering how to,deal with the 2 inch gap on each side of the new unit. I would prefer not to spend the extra money pn a custome panel if i can avoid it. I really don't need any additional features than the 8084. What was your reason for buying a custom panel?

[Stu Jackson]

.............
....................but was wondering how to,deal with the 2 inch gap on each side of the new unit.

Steve, if the height is fine, then "filling in" the edges is rather simple.  One choice is to fill both ends.  Another choice, with less "work" is to move the panel either fore or aft and only need to trim one end. 

All you need is a piece of teak nor mahogany that fits the space.  Or, your choice of any other material that meets your choice of "visuals." 

Years ago, I installed a Link 2000 in my nav station, and bought a piece of teak, cut the "whole hole" (!)  and surface mounted it.

Good luck.

IIRC, Noah bought a custom panel because of his extensive redesign work that his super brother, Jeremy, helped to design.  Noah's complete "reasoning" is included in his forum post and his great C34 Tech wiki article.

[Jon W]

The primary reason was the available distance between the desk and the molding above the panel is 8.5". Secondary reason I wanted bilge breakers, and Smartgauge on the panel. Other reasons are I could choose breaker size and location, I liked the look of the panel, and the 2 x 4 module size fit.

My two cents -
I had thought about using a taller "off the shelf" panel. I looked at removing the molding, cutting a notch in the shelf for depth of the panel plus wires. Then adding am "L" shaped fascia panel. The horizontal portion of the "L" would stay between the desk and the molding. The vertical portion of the "L"  would fit between the desk and the underside of the second upper shelf with sides to make a cabinet ~ 1" wider than the panel. Cut the original molding shorter and reinstall. Then attach the new panel and my VHF to the fascia with some type of hinge arrangement to open for access to the back. I think it would have been a good look, but a lot of work.

[SPembleton]

Thanks Jon and Stu.  Will try to get to the boat soon to remeasure and plan.  This weekend we are going to the Louis Vuitton Cup in Chicago!  Maybe I can get a couple of ideas on how to coax another 30 knots out of my rig!!

[mainesail]

If you are a tall handy with wood you can make a simple hinged door frame with inset polycarbonate for the panel to sit in. I use my Kreg jig and make door frames like this quite often..

[SPembleton]

That looks great.  But it is a liitle beyond my skill and equipment.  Could i pay you to make one
Ike that for me?