Replacing the Outhaul & Boom end caps.

[britinusa]

With the main off and the need to inspect the out haul, I took the boom off.

As mentioned before, the Gooseneck Casting Assembly has a crack and I ordered front and back castings from CD.

A bit of a challenge taking the castings off, but once off I could see the gooseneck has not been upgraded. Strike that one off the critical list - the new casting has the upgrade.

The out haul line is most likely the original, it's pretty torn up. I'm going to replace it and add a sheave to increase the ratio, but was wondering if it's worth putting a length of PVC piping inside the boom so that the out haul tackle does not abrade against the inside of the boom?

Paul

[Noah]

I don't think it is necessary to add conduit, but if you do, you should rivet the PVC to boom wall and that means a bit of work and cosmetic touch-up. Fyi - i recommend 10:1 block and tackle for outhaul.

[Ron Hill]

Paul : I found that the 3:1 block setup was sufficient leverage for an outhaul. 
What happened to me was that both the inside blocks were swiveling and the outhaul line was twisted up.

I wrote an article (mid 1990s) in the Mainsheet Tech notes with a picture of the interior set up - that page was missing from my owners manual!!

A thought

[britinusa]

Looking inside the boom, the boom bales are through bolted, there's hardly room for a pvc tube.

I ended up replacing the entire out haul - wire and line. replaced the single block with a double, so now there are four lines on the moving block - 4:1

Very pleased with the results.

Paul

Just uploaded the pics and added a post to my blog

[Mick Laver]

I tied a line on the end of the outhaul control and put a new cleat near the end of the boom so I could manage the outhaul from the cockpit. Not a particularly elegant solution, and now's the time to do it right. Both the outhaul line and cable need replacing, and the sheaves need to be freed up (the forward one is totally frozen.) I've got the boom casting soaking in penetrant in preparation for removal, but looking at Catalina's drawing of the assembly (below)  I'm curious if it's going to even be possible to get at the innards. Seems like Paul has done it on a Mk I and presumably it's the same - or similar - on a Mk II. Any pointers out there? Thanks.

[KWKloeber]

Mick, as far as I can recall, that looks like the identical set up as the 30.  I haven't had mine out since 20 years when I painted the boom, so a little sketchy here (CRS) -- but I recall no problem once I popped the end caps.  Just pulled it through --  I didn't leave a messenger inside to pull it back -- just snagged it w/ my electrician's snake.

Are you going to add purchase?
Does the 34 have a slug at the clew?  On the 30 that tends to jam, so some have remove/replaced it, and some have added a small Harken track and car (pulled by the outhaul shackle.)  I can ask for a pic if you're interested.  Are you loose footed?

-kk

[KWKloeber]

Mick -  PS. do a search -- there's more outhaul info on the C34 site.

Are you thinking of running the control to the CP?

-kk

[britinusa]

I had to drill out the screws holding the castings in place. But once done, it was pretty easy to coax them out from the boom.

I drilled down through the center of the screws (after grinding them flat) then just popped them all the way through inside.

Paul

[mark_53]

I had to drill out the screws holding the castings in place. But once done, it was pretty easy to coax them out from the boom.

I drilled down through the center of the screws (after grinding them flat) then just popped them all the way through inside.

Paul

What do you mean by "popped them all the through inside"

[britinusa]

after grinding the screw head flat with 4" grinder, I then drilled down through their center then used a sligtly larger drill bit to create a countersink in the screw. Then I used a steel punch and hammer to punch the remaining part of the screw into the inside and through the casting. doing so I was able to avoid enlarging thr screw hole in the boom sparI then used a hammer and an old chisel in the join between the boom and csting to separate the two. ditto oneach end.

Paul

[Ekutney]

I guess I got lucky.  Hit all screws with PB and let soak overnight then unscrewed each one SLOWLY the next day.  I have a hard dodger which held one end of the boom then used two halyards to hold the other end.  Pulled both caps off myself because I had read about the cotter pins shearing and needed to replace the outhaul line (it was still original after almost 30 years).  Kept the original configuration but had to change one sheave, the mast end one installed at the end of the boom.  As I said I got lucky... one of the few jobs that did not turn into a major project with all kinds of side projects.