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Author Topic: Traveler replacement  (Read 2002 times)

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mregan

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Traveler replacement
« on: September 21, 2015, 07:39:20 AM »

Just ordered a new traveller for my '86.  Was reading through the critical updates regarding the traveller thru bolting and have a couple of questions.

It seems like there is an existing metal plate embedded in the traveller riser or deck which the existing bolts thread into.  Is this correct?  I always assumed the bolts got yanked out because they were just screwed into the wood/fiberglass in the risers.

To correct it looks like I have a couple of options.
Use the same bolt holes, drill through the threads and thru bolt with new long bolts.
Re-install the existing bolts in the same holes then add a third bolt inboard which is thru bolted.



« Last Edit: September 21, 2015, 02:42:04 PM by Stu Jackson »
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Ed Shankle

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Re: Traveller replacement
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2015, 10:14:47 AM »

did you know that if your original track is a Garhauer you only need to order the travel cars? cheaper and less installation work.

Ed
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Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

RV61

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Re: Traveller replacement
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2015, 10:22:36 AM »

Yes to
It seems like there is an existing metal plate embedded in the traveler riser or deck which the existing bolts thread into.  Is this correct? Yes

I  tore out backing plate in the riser and the screws thru the fiberglass on top of riser on a hard Jib a few years ago due to not reading all critical upgrades about thru bolting.   I put back together using threaded stainless rod going thru cabin top. I reinstalled metal plate in riser and two bolts thru riser backing plate and thru cabin top per side in addition to two more for total of four per side. 4 may be over kill.

You could cure by doing any of the options you mention. If it were my boat I would have at least two bolts thru riser backing plate and cabin top  per side and use a backing plate inside on cabin top in addition to the plate inside the riser.    
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Rick V
Interlude
1986 Hull #237
Lake Erie

mregan

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Re: Traveller replacement
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2015, 11:53:25 AM »

Old traveller was Nico or Nirco?

Thanks.  I was thinking I might just drill out the threads in the riser plates and thru bolt 2 bolts per side and install backing plates inside the cabin.

Not sure if mine were getting ready to pull out but I seem to have 2 pretty good size cracks in the top of the risers under the traveller.  I'll try to take pictures when I get the old traveller off.
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Stu Jackson

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Re: Traveller replacement
« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2015, 12:47:03 PM »

Matt,

IIRC, It was Nicro.  As in Nicro Fico.  They were installed on the very early boats like yours, replaced with Garhauer tracks & cars around the time mine was made.

Also, IIRC, there was only one screw on each side down into an embedded plate.  That was the design flaw noted in the November 1988 (LOOONG time ago and literally right off the bat as far as Tech Notes is concerned - it was repeated many years later by Jim Moe who noted it was an issue on BOTH his C30 and his C34, but it appeared in a C30 tech note article).  Mine hadn't come off, so I just drilled outboard of the existing screw for my nine inch bolts.  My boat was 12 years old when we bought it and this was one of the very first things we did.  While our PO was pretty good with some stuff, it was apprent to me he wasn't a heavy weather sailor who jibed his boat, ever.   :D

Lesson Learned:  I reported this before on the board.  First, I wasn't even in where I drilled through in counting the number of available holes or distance from the ends, so my two new bolts ended up different distances from the old ones, but this is not an issue, just sloppiness on my part. More importantly, for the port side new bolt, be very, very careful where you drill, because mine came down right where the head door frame meets the overhead.  I was able to get an acorn nut on the bottom/inside of the starboard side bolt, but not the one near the head door, not that it matters 'cuz you'd have to be a gymnast to hit your head there.   :D  I still wouldn't know how to "pre-measure" to find the right place, but I'm sure some carpenters could explain it.  I just felt if the new bolt came down too far, either the acorn nut would suffice or I'd trim it off some.

One other thought that came from a Mainsheet article I wrote on replacing the dorades:  I had leaks at my old dorade holes.  So, I replaced the dorades.  Still had the leak.  :cry4`  It was the traveler, so I lifted up the track and carefully rebedded it.  If I was doing it today, I'd use Maine Sail's butyl tape, a perfect application for it.

Good luck, a worthwhile and necessary thing to do.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2015, 12:51:43 PM by Stu Jackson »
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Sue Clancy

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Re: Traveler replacement
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2015, 12:46:28 PM »

How can I tell if I have a Nicro or Garhauer traveler.  The blocks say Garhauer but there is no marking on the track.

I have an early 1987 #272 and have attached a photo if that helps.
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Sue and Brian Clancy
Former owners - 1987 C34 Mk I #272
Home Port - Westbrook, CT
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