Leaking Fixed Port

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Jim Brener

The starboard fixed port is leaking along the top.  I have removed it twice and rebedded it only to see the drips return on the inside.  I am a convert to butyl rubber tape and will be rebedding most everything with it.  Has anyone tried using this on the fixed ports?  After removal and cleanup, I can see at least two  1/2" strips of tape or more  and perhaps  numerous screws to hold the port in place. This means drilling holes in the plastic which has its own risk.

If all else fails, I will consider removal for the third time, not fun.  Any thoughts will be appreciated.
Jim Brener
Wind Spirit  1987  #504

Jim Hardesty

I'm a little reluctant to recommend this cause it sounds like a late night TV infomercial.  But it's fixed some things for me.  I've not used it on a fixed port.  "Captain Tolleys Creaping Crack Cure" sounds strange but thats the name.  May need to apply a few times.  Make sure to clean up where it drips.  The cost is low and wouldn't take much time.  And you are not damaging anything trying to fix it.  May be just a fix for this sailing season.

www.captaintolley.com/

Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Ron Hill

Jim : I'd stay away from Capt Tolleys as it a slow curing epoxy and will harden.  You need to have some thing flexible. 
I asked Mainsail about butyl rubber on a fixed port and he didn't recommend it!!

The biggest problem according to Gerry Douglas, is that people do not use small pieces of foam tap to afford standoff.  If you don't have the standoff when you caulk and reseat the lens, the curvature causes all of the caulk to squirt out - especially in the middle. 

A few thoughts.
Ron, Apache #788

KINGAIR350

Replaced both port and starboard fixed windows(nav. station head port & galley salon stbd) with DOW 795 and the 3-M section tape as per the installation drawings, right butyl is great stuff but you really need holding strenght and a great seal and flexibility for these applications using butyl usually has a mechanical expansion factor,  bolts, washers, screws, backing plates where the fixed windows dont , even tho mine ('88 std rig # 552) had screws that i tossed didnt want the stress cracks to appear later , even tho the windows are distortion free no waves or hi- low spots after the job was completed im pretty satisfied with the results much less of a stress factor than installing a LearJet cock pit window .

Good Luck !!     

mregan

I just replace my starboard fixed ports.  Bought some black foam insulation 1/8" thick.  Cut up small pieces and put them around the window are various intervals.  Then used Dow 795.  I used screws to hold the window in place and squish the 795 a bit.  I didn't crank them down all the way but screwed them in by hand until I saw the window compressing and the screws got snug.  We've had some pretty heavy rain lately.  No leaks yet.

DaveM

Mregan

When you used small pieces of 1/8 foam did you put them toward the inside of the bead of Dow 795 so there wouldn't be a leak path.  Thanks

Goodwinds
DaveM
Dave Mauney, O'Day 35, 1989, "DAMWEGAS" , Oriental, NC , M25XP

Jim Brener

Thanks for all the replies.  I did not use spacers so that must be my problem.  Would 1/8" or 1/4" thick closed foam work best?
Jim Brener
Wind Spirit  1987  #504