Thru-hull replacement?

[Kirk Garner]

I've done all the critical upgrades, changed all the fluids, replaced cutlass bearing, pulled/cleaned the fuel tank, replaced all the fuel lines and before I begin doing cosmetic stuff (which I can work on when she's back in the water) I am wondering if there is any good reason to replace the thru-hulls on a 23 year old hull? I've read most of the maintenance threads but have not seen any reference to just 'replace them'. Do they ever wear out? Are there any brands/materials better than others?

I am not currently aware of any problems but there was several inches of water in the bilge when I purchased but had her drydocked 2 days later to begin upgrades.

Thanks as always for your help!

Kirk

[Stu Jackson]

Kirk, you might want to check Maine Sail's website, he most likely has some tips about this.

You raise a good issue.  Our boat's 25 now, and I haven't given it a thought.  No leaks.  Not so sure "out of sight out of mind" is a good approach.  Pretty much like my Critical Upgrade on the hot water heater hoses from the engine under the galley sole.   

Let us know if you find any "issues."

[Ron Hill]

Kirk : What you should do is lube each thru hull annually from both the inside and outside.  That keeps them limber and from wearing out.

I've posted my lube procedures numerous times. Simply take a small metal tuberial brush and from the outside (thru hull closed) put a little water resistant grease on the stuff bristle tips and stick it in the thru-hull opening a "shmirr" it around.  Then exercise the thru hull a half dozen times.  I also take the hose off from the inside and use the same procedure/grease from the inside.  If you want to check if the thru hull is not holding - when the boat's in the water (thru hull closed) remove the hose and you'll know.

I've been doing this for 24 seasons and all of my thru hull are OK.  If they start to not hold - I'll change them!!  A thought

[Brad Colon]

I found that three of my shut offs needed replaced on my 1994 model because the metal screw that held the handle on rusted/ disintegrated. They were Forspar thru hulls. I have always greased and exercised the shut offs. But there is no way to get to metal screw to check it.

[Ron Hill]

Brad : I believe that you can take the point of a knife and pop off the Forspar label disc (on the thru hull  ball valve) and check that screw underneath.  
A thought.  

[Stu Jackson]

Definitions:  (as I understand them, not from a dictionary)

Thru hull - the fitting that goes through the hull

Valve - the "on-off" thingie with a handle that lets water in or out and can be opened and closed

Plastic thru hull fittings have been known to crack in cold conditions.  For example, look at your cockpit drain thru hulls.  They have NO valves on them.  The thru hull could crack, but it's (they're?) above the waterline.  Some others are below the waterline, like your raw water intake and your galley sink outlet.

The original question was about thru hulls, perhaps not the Marelon valves themselves.

If it was indeed the valves, then I suggest rereading the Critical Upgrades about the Marelon valves from Sailor Vic.

[Kirk Garner]

Ron,    "Simply take a small metal tuberial brush and from the outside"   I have tried purchasing the brush at several hardware stores and a number of auto parts stores, no luck. They just have large parts cleaning horizontal brushes. What kind of store do you find yours?

Thanks, Kirk

[Ken Juul]

I'll take a guess that another name for the tuberial brush is an "acid" brush.  Used to apply flux when soldering or welding.

Any hardware store should have them.

[Kirk Garner]

Thanks Ken, I'm on my way.......

[Ron Hill]

Kirk : West Marine also has those brushes - in the epoxy West system section.